Hello all, still kinda new to the forums over here but am diggin the LR a lot.
My issue is I replace the fuse and dash lights work and tail lights work just great. I tried all the buttons and drove it for a few days and everything was working fine (when I bought it they didn't work due to blown fuse and PO did the "scratches his head and says, they worked yesterday"). The only thing I can figure is when I lock or unlock the doors the passenger rear lock makes some crazy shuttering sound then it goes ahead and locks. It seems everything else works fine and I have been trying all the buttons due to its a new toy.
It is on a 1998 Land Rover LSE (dude said it was 50th anniv but I dont think he knew tbh)
automatic
dual sun roofs
factory security (no remote)
I wont be a lot of help early on with the forums but I am an IT administrator and will be happy to return all the great help you guys are by answering computer questions. Just shoot me PM's and give me a couple days to respond.
Brian
My issue is I replace the fuse and dash lights work and tail lights work just great. I tried all the buttons and drove it for a few days and everything was working fine (when I bought it they didn't work due to blown fuse and PO did the "scratches his head and says, they worked yesterday"). The only thing I can figure is when I lock or unlock the doors the passenger rear lock makes some crazy shuttering sound then it goes ahead and locks. It seems everything else works fine and I have been trying all the buttons due to its a new toy.
It is on a 1998 Land Rover LSE (dude said it was 50th anniv but I dont think he knew tbh)
automatic
dual sun roofs
factory security (no remote)
I wont be a lot of help early on with the forums but I am an IT administrator and will be happy to return all the great help you guys are by answering computer questions. Just shoot me PM's and give me a couple days to respond.
Brian
Recovery Vehicle
Mine is a 50th A.E. I thought it was something special/cool at first, then I did a little research and found the only diff with a "regular" disco was mine had a little sticker in the rear side windows and a cargo space floor mat with"50th aniversary edition" embroidered on it.
As far as the lights go, something is definitly shorting out. Does you're rover have an aftermarket stereo in it? I've seen some hack jobs on stereo installs(like mine when I bought it). I would also look for non-factory wiring in the dash, and at the tail lights.
As far as the lights go, something is definitly shorting out. Does you're rover have an aftermarket stereo in it? I've seen some hack jobs on stereo installs(like mine when I bought it). I would also look for non-factory wiring in the dash, and at the tail lights.
Haha, thanks for the info bout the 50th anniv edition. I do have those little clear stickers int he rear windows so /shrug, maybe may not be. Really isnt a big deal to me but kinda funny that would be all they do to specify the "50 great years" is a little sticker.. LOL
Someone did replace the radio and it is a hack job, it actually does not even work and when you turn it on there is a high pitch sound that makes you need ear bleach. Guess I will start there.
thanks again,
Brian
Someone did replace the radio and it is a hack job, it actually does not even work and when you turn it on there is a high pitch sound that makes you need ear bleach. Guess I will start there.
thanks again,
Brian
Three Wheeling
Another common problem is the light in the glove box, it will short out and blow the fuse. Mine did it a lot till I read about it hear. I think its the fact that the electrical connections on the light are exposed and come in contact with the metal frame it sits in. To fix it I just wrapped the contacts in electrical tape to insulate it. Hope this helps.
Baja
Brian,
Welcome to the insane world of Discovery Recovery. It is an addicition that can get really bad.
Download the large zip file for the RAVE. It has all the documentation including the electrical. Study the electrical t/s manual. They do have their own unique way of showing things. I have yet to find an overall schematic showing the entire system like I am accustomed to with military aircraft and missile systems.
They do show each individaual little section of each but the way it is fragmented, you have to jump around a lot to follow a circuit. They show the fuse details for power distribution, a separate listing for the grounds, and separate drawings for each little portion. After you familarize yourself with it , you can track down a circuit but it is rather piecemeal.
If you are blowing fuses repeatedly, the only explanation is a short somewhere drawing excessive current. If the original wiring has been hacked into for power or grounds there is no telling what has been affected. You may have bare wires shorting out to a frame or only touching during vibration or something of that nature. Try to fix any such modifications.
Also the LR wiring harnesses were manufactured such that one standard harness was used with all connector present for all options so that one harness works in all vehicles regardless of trim and option levels for ease of manufacturing. For instance, the connectors and wiring are present for rear air whether you have rear AC or not, same for heated windscreen.
Also there are multiple internal splices within the harness themselves that can go bad. I have been redoing my harnesses as I work on any part of mine. I rewrap and reroute as necessary to improve the beast. You will see more of this as you tear into yours.
Raise your carpets and take a look at the mess underneath, wires run everywhere.
Also take a look at the area around the passenger's side taillight inside the vehicle, there is a trailer connector back there that can be a problem. There are also a pair of purple wires back there that are hot (arced when touched together). Not sure what thoise purple wires go to, but I taped mine off for now to prevent shorts.
Also, the headlight switch that is built into the turn signal switch, controls both the headlights, the tail lights and the dash lights. Mine went bad and the tail light and dash lights would not work in the headlight position, only in the parking light position.
Replacement of the headlight switch resolved this problem.
Welcome to the insane world of Discovery Recovery. It is an addicition that can get really bad.
Download the large zip file for the RAVE. It has all the documentation including the electrical. Study the electrical t/s manual. They do have their own unique way of showing things. I have yet to find an overall schematic showing the entire system like I am accustomed to with military aircraft and missile systems.
They do show each individaual little section of each but the way it is fragmented, you have to jump around a lot to follow a circuit. They show the fuse details for power distribution, a separate listing for the grounds, and separate drawings for each little portion. After you familarize yourself with it , you can track down a circuit but it is rather piecemeal.
If you are blowing fuses repeatedly, the only explanation is a short somewhere drawing excessive current. If the original wiring has been hacked into for power or grounds there is no telling what has been affected. You may have bare wires shorting out to a frame or only touching during vibration or something of that nature. Try to fix any such modifications.
Also the LR wiring harnesses were manufactured such that one standard harness was used with all connector present for all options so that one harness works in all vehicles regardless of trim and option levels for ease of manufacturing. For instance, the connectors and wiring are present for rear air whether you have rear AC or not, same for heated windscreen.
Also there are multiple internal splices within the harness themselves that can go bad. I have been redoing my harnesses as I work on any part of mine. I rewrap and reroute as necessary to improve the beast. You will see more of this as you tear into yours.
Raise your carpets and take a look at the mess underneath, wires run everywhere.
Also take a look at the area around the passenger's side taillight inside the vehicle, there is a trailer connector back there that can be a problem. There are also a pair of purple wires back there that are hot (arced when touched together). Not sure what thoise purple wires go to, but I taped mine off for now to prevent shorts.
Also, the headlight switch that is built into the turn signal switch, controls both the headlights, the tail lights and the dash lights. Mine went bad and the tail light and dash lights would not work in the headlight position, only in the parking light position.
Replacement of the headlight switch resolved this problem.