Thanks!

...Think I coulda been in a sweet youtube video...

 

Of course, if it's integrated in to the bumper, it's fine to use the bumper.
Something like this one

 

That brush guard is just held on with a couple of bolts. Mine was so rusted out from the inside that it is laying on a pile of junk beside my drive way.

 

Well I'm gonna order the CM shackle and find a receiver locally when I get my next pay check (2weeks from now).

I PB Blasted the linkage under Claire, I had my cousin wiggle it and I found it. Hard to reach sort of while trying to flash light it to see. It is easier to move from Hi and Low but I still can't lock and unlock it. Should I PB it again for the next couple of days? Or is it something else? And I couldn't find it in the RAVE manual but I did what you said and wiggled the shifter and looked for the sound underneath.

Sounds funny but here is what I saw as the linkage.
Take your index and middle finger and bed it like an eagle. Now imagine a metal stick in between your index and middle.

 

some people have better luck with some very slow movement in the truck less than 5mph.

 

I tried that, what I do is I shift Claire into neutral, then i can move into hi and low. From my understanding I should be able to shift into lock and unlock at anytime. Does this mean when I am in Hi, I just pull the shifter to the left and it SHOULD lock? Or do I have to go into neutral, left, then down?

 

When it is in proper working order, a mere push toward the drivers seat will engage the LOCK position, in high or low and sitting still or rolling even up to highway speeds.

Did you look at the Rovers North webpage? It shows every last little piece. It is primarily a small u-channel that has a pin holding the top likages together. It transfers motion to the bottom to a triangular pivot point that has a nut in the center and a small u shaped piece of round stock connecting the u-channel to the pivot point. When that triangular piece rotates CCW it physically moves a yoke internal to the T/C and locks the center differential.

Until that triangular piece pivots, the CDL ain't going to engage. To correctly gain access to this linkage, the center console must be removed.

 

Here is the exploded view of the CDL Linkage. Item 35 must rotate for the Diff Lock to engage.
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...s-linkage.aspx

Until it does, you will not engage the Diff Lock. One method you may want to try, if you can locate that lower pivot point, is to place a socket on that center nut. Attempt to loosen the nut (rotate CCW). When I was working on mine, I was attempting to loosen that nut, my shifter had not yet begun to work.

When I applied force to that center nut, instead of breaking loose like I had anticipated, the shifter suddenly moved completely to the locked position. After getting it to move for the first time, it then became much easier to shift side to side. Spray it all down real good, then attempt to loosen that center nut. The shifter may just move for you as well.

 

OH WOW! IT WAS YOU NOT ANTICHRIST!

Sorry haha, I just realized you had the album with the removed CDL haha. How did you remove the gator around the cdl shifter? I don't want to cut it or break the square surround piece

 

The correct way to do it is to drill out each of the factory rivets and just lift it off. Buy yourself a Pop Rivet Kit. It is a Gun and an assortment of pop rivets. After the repair is completed. you re-install the rubber gaiter with pop rivets each place you drilled out a factory rivet. I even added a few extra because the frame on mine was slightly deformed. The extra pop rivets secured it nicely.