RoadRunner,

Be One With The RAVE My Son, Be One With the RAVE. And beware those who speak in generalities, for the specifics are what matters. Generalities apply to nothing specifically. Good for theory, but check the print.

Now, what I recommend is to print the entire RAVE ELectrical Section. The way it is fragmented, I would not attempt to do it on-screen.

Whenever you turn on the A/C, both the fans in front of the radiator are supposed to turn on. If your A/C blower is not working, check all the fuses using an ohmmeter to read continuity, not just a visual of the element, it can look ok but not function. I know there were also some threads about people having their blowers suddenly work only on the highest position as well. So definitely check the resistor packs, I have not had to get into those yet.

I am thinking that if you did short something or if you suddenly drew a lot more current than the circuit is rated for with your addition of the seat motors, you most likely blew one of the fuses. As far as other damage, I would be pretty surprised if it was any more than a blown fuse. Doubt you melted any wires together. At least I would hope not.

Good Luck.

 

Here is the latest on my attempt to fix a short in the blower, cooling fan, AC control short. I have focused in the last couple of days on the front blower motor relay K192 at connector C2068 found in the Wiring diagram K1-6 for a 1996 Discovery 1 SD.

I replaced the relay because the WR + wire that connects directly to front blower motor M101 does not energize when the Front Fan Speed Switch is moved to position I. I believe that is what the relay is supposed to do. I have taken some readings with a digital multi-meter that are telling although I am not sure how to interpret them so could you guys throw some light on this:

Refer to K1-6……K192 Blower Control Relay at C2068

# color
connection
Ignition. on
Blower Switch on
AC switch on/blower off

30 WR
+ to blower
0.00v
0.00v
0.00v

87 R
+ from fuse
12.05v
11.72v
11.69v

87a WB
- ground
0.0
0.00v
0.00v

86 UR
+ ignition relay
11.75v
01.11
0.78v

85 N
+ blower switch
11.74
0.03
0.78v




So it is evident that power is being drawn off at 86 and 85 when the Blower switch or the AC switch is turned on. In both cases the cooling fans come on at the radiator but the blower does not come on. So the front blower motor relay may not have been bad because coil voltage drops off and the relay cannot be energized to engage the switch to energize the blower at 30. Essentially, my changing the relay made no difference. (note the dealer wanted $85.00, I bought one at NAPA for $18!

I also did a resistor test with battery disconnected I checked resistance from ground to 87a. I found a change in resistance as I clicked through the blower switch from I to IV.

I would also like to return the relay if I don’t need it. Is there a simple test to make the the relay click when energized out of the car? What terminals would be involved?

 

crap the pasted in word table with voltages did not send intact....can you still make this out. Basically the first list is the table column title and the voltages are readings at the relay when the ignition switch, then the blower switch, and then the AC switch, but not the blower switch is turned on. I get dramatic voltage drops when the switches are turned on...Where do I go from here?
Is there a better way to send a table?

Mark

 

86 and 85 should be your coil wires... these are supplied with a voltage from the component switch... i.e. turn on fan switch and voltage is supplied to 86 (or 85 as they are in some cases interchangable but not all) and that causes the contact to close or open depending on the type of realy.

87 should be normally open contact (UNenergized relay coil)

87a should be a normally closed contact (UNenergized relay coil)

30 is the + supply to the component through 87 or 87a

bench test--- 12v supply to 86 and ground to 85 should energize (click) the contacts between 30 and 87. with the relay energized you should have good continuity across 30 to 87.

 

Since you have the Elec Troubleshooting manual and have figured out the way to source components, connectors, grounds and all that jazz....

Check out section Y5 page 15.... all the components you are having issues with share a common ground at E200.

Here is my wacky suggestion. restore all wires and connections to original. Get that jumper (window cheat ) out of there and start fresh with factory electrical configurations. The window ECU fix is easy... For your seats just run a completely seperate and isolated and fused circuit to the motors and switches.

 

Cosmo is right on the relay explanation (I believe 85 should be negative as some relays have a spike suppression diode in between these terminals giving them specific polarities) you should hear and feel it click when energized. take the relay back, a standard bosch relay (if thats what it is) for more than $3 is overpriced.

to test outside the vehicle connect pin 85 to ground and apply 12 volts to pin 86 and the relay will click. and I agree 100% with cosmos suggestion.

 

Like I said on page 1, and just like Cosmo and Sparky said above:

My suggestion is to remove the modifications completely. Restore all original connections after fixing any insulation or conductor damage you may have inadvertently created.

Remove the window ECU circuit board and reflow all solder joints. Reinstall circuit board and test window operation. Reassemble everything.

As far as the power seats go, I would run a totally separate fused circuit of sufficient wire so as to not do any other incidental damage to something that may cost a lot to fix.

And if you think I was harsh or brash or whatevet, both my horse and I were High, as usual.

Anyway, hope you get it straigthened out and are able to enjoy your Discovery as much as I enjoy mine. Just be careful with jumping into modifications as you can really end up making some significant but totally unintended changes that you could quickly regret.

 

First off thanks for all this great input...I would not be this far along without your help....I am learning alot about electrical circuits and trouble shooting....and how to avoid in the future the mistake that got me here..
Note I am about to resend the last message saved a different way with the voltage table intact...but before I do..I have checked pertinentfused and just tested continuity to ground of the wire from the ignition relay at 87 that is shared by the blower, cooling fan and compressor circuits...this wire showed about .75 continuity with ground with the battery disconnected with 1.0 being full continuity using my analog meter. Downstream from this wire White Green with connector C2073 disconected the same wire now UR (Blue Red) has zero continuity with ground. This suggests to me that the problem is with the WG wire as it leads up to the ignition load relay or with that relay itself...On the way back to said relay there is a splice S227 HJ4 that leads to the cooling fans by way of the fan timer diode...so I am getting close.....Lone Ranger sayts let's keep tracking Tonto..

Here is the previous message with the voltage table saved a different way......

Here is the latest on my attempt to fix a short in the blower, cooling fan, AC control short. I have focused in the last couple of days on the front blower motor relay K192 at connector C2068 found in the Wiring diagram K1-6 for a 1996 Discovery 1 SD.

I replaced the relay because the WR + wire that connects directly to front blower motor M101 does not energize when the Front Fan Speed Switch is moved to position I. I believe that is what the relay is supposed to do. I have taken some readings with a digital multi-meter that are telling although I am not sure how to interpret them so could you guys throw some light on this:

Refer to K1-6……K192 Blower Control Relay at C2068

# color
connection
Ignition. on
Blower Switch on
AC switch on/blower off

30 WR
+ to blower
0.00v
0.00v
0.00v

87 R
+ from fuse
12.05v
11.72v
11.69v

87a WB
- ground
0.0
0.00v
0.00v

86 UR
+ ignition relay
11.75v
01.11
0.78v

85 N
+ blower switch
11.74
0.03
0.78v




So it is evident that power is being drawn off at 86 and 85 when the Blower switch or the AC switch is turned on. In both cases the cooling fans come on at the radiator but the blower does not come on. So the front blower motor relay may not have been bad because coil voltage drops off and the relay cannot be energized to engage the switch to energize the blower at 30. Essentially, my changing the relay made no difference. (note the dealer wanted $85.00, I bought one at NAPA for $18!

I also did a resistor test with battery disconnected I checked resistance from ground to 87a. I found a change in resistance as I clicked through the blower switch from I to IV.

I would also like to return the relay if I don’t need it. Is there a simple test to make the the relay click when energized out of the car? What terminals would be involved?

 

I found as I tore into my wire harnesses that they are poor constructed. They do have in-line splices, often concealed and these can tend to be a problem. Cut them aprt or out and replace with either a good crimp type splice or even better, learn the fine art of electrical soldering.

Using a good hot iron, thin solder, sometimes a good flux helps, a wet sponge to keep the tip clean. Practice on some scrap wire first if you feel you need to develop the feel and knack for doing it. You can do great things soldering wires and using "heat-shrink" sleeving to insulate it or just good old fashion electrical tape ,if you can find a decent quality electrical tape, it's getting harder to find good materials these days.

The resistance sounds really high depending on what scale your meter is on.

I bought a great new digital meter at lowe's for 30 bucks.It is a Greenlee in a ruggedized case and a pocket voltage detector for AC. That works great checking to see if a circuit is hot.

 

It has been awhile since I checked-in, but I am happy to say my blower now works, as well as my rear windows, and my electric seats move for and aft and the AC fans work as they are supposed to. Can't say for certain what happened, but I had started pulling and exposing the bundle of wire in front of the blower, checking splice connectors and trying to follow continuity. On the ignition load relay, that I had checked a couple of days earlier, I found dead hot wires and found a fuse that was blown....I could have sworn I had checked that fuse earlier, but nonethless when I replace the fuse things started working correctly....so that is it. And I have you guys in part to thank because without your suggestions and encouragement I probably would have thrown in the towel.

I now will start playing with the original radio again because now it is accepting the code, but I can get it to work for any purpose (cassette, radio, cd) but I can get it to make noise and switch through preset channels....but no stations are heard.

Where can I get radio/ cd/ cassette operation instructions? I still don't know where to find the owners manual on the RAVE