Okay, I have a 1997 D1, 225,367 on body.. The PO had motor replaced and should have now 72,768... I only use 93 in tank, he used 87..... but I keep throwing codes like GOV computer
It spits and sputters when pulling hills, no power. when i do get it fired up after warm its a nightmare to restart......

p1176
p1177
p1172
p0101
p0102
p1313
p1314
p1316

induction cleaning done once a month when i clean MAF and replace filter..
OEM copper plugs Mag wires.. new fuel pump/relays ...
fuel filter.......

I dumping gas like crazy.....

Any ideas where to start...

Thanks Chapman

 

MAF is in deep sheep, with 101 and 102 codes. Would clean the electrical connector. Not cheap to swap out, unless you can get one from boneyard. the 11** codes for lean and rich can be related, plus you could have airflow not passing thru the MAF (cracked rubber hose, vac leaks - non-metered air). The 13** codes are mifires at a level that hurts the CATS. When it is dark look under hood to check for any arcs (boots, wires, coil packs, even a cracked spark plug). You may consider opening the inspection plate and looking up inside the bell housing at the slotted / folded tab disc that triggers the CKP sensor to make sparks. A bent or missing tab can make sparks happen at wonky time. The CKP sensor can start going bad, it eventually shows up as no spark when block is hot, returning when block cools off.

When you clean yoru MAF sensor monthly, is that with truck warmed up?

 

maf cleaning is done when motor is cold... has mantec snorkel on it so all is sealed as for non metered air...... wires are 3 weeks old .... i did look for arcs there and nothingi will check for cps sparking.... though its hard to start cold as well.... think cats could be fried? i replaced a few vac rubber lines as maint/ the little 6 inch hose on back of throttle housing right below.. i didnt do the cruise control since i never use it.....

 

jmtc, symptoms also kind of suggest crank position sensor, but codes.... not so much.

 

There is a short hose at back of throttle hosuing for the fuel pressure regulator. The reason I mention the reluctor disk is that it might have gotten damaged in an engine swap. The CKP is a coil of wire around a metal rod. The rod tip is near the tabs flying by a few millimeters away. If the CKP wiring opens up (bad solder joint on the coil) you can get wierd things that go away when block (and sensor) cool back down. You can "confirm the sensor" by getting truck warmed up, trouble starts, then pour cold water on sensor to reset it before block cools off.

Sorry, I was speed reading and missed that little point about fired up nightmare to restart when warm.

 

So on a second note,what's causing the massive gas consumption... I'm burning way to much fuel. What's causing the rich fuel mixtures