My disco 1 is turning over but not starting!
If you have any kind of OBD2 scantool look and see if any codes are popping up. If the CPS is bad your LR will not have any spark = no start. You will either get a P0335 fault or a P0340 fault, and it should pop up and be stored after several start attempts longer than about 5sec each. If it's immobilized your horn will usually be going off along with your flashers. ECU wise the best way to verify that is to see if an OBD2 device can sync up with it. If you get comm issues first verify you have a good battery as a low battery will cause issues with voltage. If I'm not mistaken pin 16 on the OBD2 port = 12v. If you meter it and it's lower than 12v check the battery, or wiring going to the OBD2 port.
I've brought 2 older D1's a 98 and 99 back from the dead after each of them sitting nearly 1.5 years each. First one had a ton of replaced parts and the owner gave up. Found CPS wiring twisted together in 3 places and since the wiring insulation was cracked and split = 3 shorts. We also found the CPS dangling off the engine. D1 #2 wouldn't crank previous owner replaced front cam sensor, fuel pump, and a few other items, and gave up. First thing I did was climb under it. The CPS cover was missing, so I was looking directly at the CPS. The harness was sitting on the CPS, but it was not plugged in at all. It was resting on the CPS by maybe 1-2mm. Pushed it fully onto the CPS, crawled out from under it, and it fired right up like it had just been driven vs sitting for 1.5 years. So check the CPS wiring, and the CPS itself. They do not like a lot of heat = why they have a cover over them from the factory, and they must be properly attached with a little spacer that matches the cover plate if it is indeed missing or the CPS will not read properly or secure properly to the engine.
I've brought 2 older D1's a 98 and 99 back from the dead after each of them sitting nearly 1.5 years each. First one had a ton of replaced parts and the owner gave up. Found CPS wiring twisted together in 3 places and since the wiring insulation was cracked and split = 3 shorts. We also found the CPS dangling off the engine. D1 #2 wouldn't crank previous owner replaced front cam sensor, fuel pump, and a few other items, and gave up. First thing I did was climb under it. The CPS cover was missing, so I was looking directly at the CPS. The harness was sitting on the CPS, but it was not plugged in at all. It was resting on the CPS by maybe 1-2mm. Pushed it fully onto the CPS, crawled out from under it, and it fired right up like it had just been driven vs sitting for 1.5 years. So check the CPS wiring, and the CPS itself. They do not like a lot of heat = why they have a cover over them from the factory, and they must be properly attached with a little spacer that matches the cover plate if it is indeed missing or the CPS will not read properly or secure properly to the engine.
Last edited by Best4x4; May 17, 2020 at 08:11 PM.
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4wd High
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
If you have any kind of OBD2 scantool look and see if any codes are popping up. If the CPS is bad your LR will not have any spark = no start. You will either get a P0335 fault or a P0340 fault, and it should pop up and be stored after several start attempts longer than about 5sec each. If it's immobilized your horn will usually be going off along with your flashers. ECU wise the best way to verify that is to see if an OBD2 device can sync up with it. If you get comm issues first verify you have a good battery as a low battery will cause issues with voltage. If I'm not mistaken pin 16 on the OBD2 port = 12v. If you meter it and it's lower than 12v check the battery, or wiring going to the OBD2 port.
I've brought 2 older D1's a 98 and 99 back from the dead after each of them sitting nearly 1.5 years each. First one had a ton of replaced parts and the owner gave up. Found CPS wiring twisted together in 3 places and since the wiring insulation was cracked and split = 3 shorts. We also found the CPS dangling off the engine. D1 #2 wouldn't crank previous owner replaced front cam sensor, fuel pump, and a few other items, and gave up. First thing I did was climb under it. The CPS cover was missing, so I was looking directly at the CPS. The harness was sitting on the CPS, but it was not plugged in at all. It was resting on the CPS by maybe 1-2mm. Pushed it fully onto the CPS, crawled out from under it, and it fired right up like it had just been driven vs sitting for 1.5 years. So check the CPS wiring, and the CPS itself. They do not like a lot of heat = why they have a cover over them from the factory, and they must be properly attached with a little spacer that matches the cover plate if it is indeed missing or the CPS will not read properly or secure properly to the engine.
I've brought 2 older D1's a 98 and 99 back from the dead after each of them sitting nearly 1.5 years each. First one had a ton of replaced parts and the owner gave up. Found CPS wiring twisted together in 3 places and since the wiring insulation was cracked and split = 3 shorts. We also found the CPS dangling off the engine. D1 #2 wouldn't crank previous owner replaced front cam sensor, fuel pump, and a few other items, and gave up. First thing I did was climb under it. The CPS cover was missing, so I was looking directly at the CPS. The harness was sitting on the CPS, but it was not plugged in at all. It was resting on the CPS by maybe 1-2mm. Pushed it fully onto the CPS, crawled out from under it, and it fired right up like it had just been driven vs sitting for 1.5 years. So check the CPS wiring, and the CPS itself. They do not like a lot of heat = why they have a cover over them from the factory, and they must be properly attached with a little spacer that matches the cover plate if it is indeed missing or the CPS will not read properly or secure properly to the engine.
this car has been my daily driver for the last couple months. I haven’t been anywhere crazy. Just around the block a few times. Where can i find the cps?
CPS are subject to a lot of heat. The Crank Position Sensor is located on the drivers side of the engine block down by the Y pipe connection. It normally will have a small silver cover over it. You will see a wiring harness coming out of it, and it's secured by a small bolt. A new sensor online from say Rock Auto is usually around 25-30.00.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 467
Likes: 36
From: Aurora, CO
Once you verify the CPS is good, listen to see if the fuel pump is running right after rotating the key to the run position. I suspect you will have a schrader valve (looks like a metal valve stem) on the fuel rail. If there's no pressure there, then the system needs to be checked.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 625
From: NYC
This video covers a DII, but the location and general outline is the same for a D1. The cover is slightly different and spacers are different also. That flat topped rusty thing in the foreground is the top of the Y pipe. The exhaust manifold has been removed in this video.
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4wd High
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
You guys wont believe this.. I changed out the crankshaft position sensor, got a new battery. the car still wouldnt start. I had it taken to a mechanic and they found the issue. wait for it.....
It was the 5v ABS fuse.
Yeah. a fuse. It blew out again after i started driving it again. I replaced it with a 10v fuse and its been fine so far. But what do you guys think the issue could be? I do have a power steering leak. But i dont think thats related.
It was the 5v ABS fuse.
Yeah. a fuse. It blew out again after i started driving it again. I replaced it with a 10v fuse and its been fine so far. But what do you guys think the issue could be? I do have a power steering leak. But i dont think thats related.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 39
Likes: 3
From: Arkansas
Replace oil pressure sensor!
the oil pressure sensor will cause it to think it’s too high or too low so as a safety it will not start happened to me with my D1
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dmatranga
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