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Need help with removing the 2" suspension lift

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  #21  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:32 PM
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But listen to sensei donut. Power train first. Rolling chassis is easier to work on then non rolling full of motor and trans.
 
  #22  
Old 06-23-2011, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris-bob
Wait to pull the axles and suspension until after you pull the engine/tranny/t-case combo.
your refering to the lift arent you? I may have a buyer for my 2" lift, and in return he will give me his old springs so could I just remove the lift now, put the regular springs in and go from there?
 
  #23  
Old 06-23-2011, 05:58 PM
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Yup. As long as you don't HAVE to pick the drive train before your "new to you" springs and shocks come.
 
  #24  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by turf63
Haha, too bad you dont live closer, i'd gut that thing like a fish for you. I have a pair of front springs i could trade you if you wanted? I could ship them up to you and you could ship me back what we agree is an equal value in parts if you want. Then you could just LEAVE the back resting on jackstands while you gut it. Thoughts?

Hey I got two springs around here I think. For half as much as his..........
 
  #25  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:18 PM
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Instead of doing it that way, I wouls strip the hood, fenders and doors off and see if you get any buyers. When you have removed all the removable panels, take a badass sazall or Makita or whatever Recip saw with a demolition blade and cut the aluminum into manageable size pieces. A recycler pays by the pound, so it make them a size you can handle. They also pay a bulk rate for steel, Insulated copper like those wire bundles bring one price, stripped copper brings around 3 bucks a pound as does Aluminum.

Then when the body and interior are all pulled, piece out all the electronic boxes. You got the engine on the frame fully exposed. Offer it whole or piece out the intake/block/ tranny/tc. Free up the axles complete with tires wheels and all.

I think that is your best return and easiest approach.
 
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