Hi all. I have been lurking this website for a while now while I was deciding on picking up a LR, and I finally took the plunge. I would consider myself as a highly capable DIY mechanic. I never send my vehicles in for service. So I knew buying this vehicle was going to be a project and am up to the task. I, however, do not know everything and am completely uneducated on LRs.

I picked up a '96 Disco, auto trans, with 182k, and a couple issues. I picked it up for $1500 so I didn't spend a whole lot.
I also know work is time consuming, and this isn't my DD so I am not relying on it running all the time.
https://i.imgur.com/qqoRmI7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kAVROe6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8nUUQby.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qDuS1JX.jpg
It's not in bad shape just needs a few things here and there.

My first question is about the oil pressure. I've noticed once while sitting in a drive thru that when the motor bogged a little below idle the oil pressure light flickered. Only when the motor dropped a little below regular idle. This happened once before and once after changing the oil and filter (10w40 + wix filter) I've read a couple things about the oil pump gears. So I got a oil pressure tester and it was the type that you put on the filter, like this.

https://i.imgur.com/jKJuklh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/feOM55r.jpg
Cold idle was right around 8-10 psi (it was hard to tell with the gauge being down by the filter) and cold 2,000 rpms right around 30-35 psi

Warm idle is right about 5-6 psi and the warm 2000 rpms is bouncy between 25-35

My question is do I replace the oil pump gears and clean the sump or is there something else to check? I don't plan on driving it until at least this is resolve.
Also, I read the codes and got a Idle speed control circuit fault and a cam position sensor circuit fault. Those two I should be able to diagnose pretty easily. Other than that it seems to run strong.

My plans are to fix the motor and get it reliable, fix some interior stuff and then start to throw upgrades on the truck, bumper, rack, lift, etc... but that's down the road.

Also, my cdl is seized, as I read is common from non use. My question about that is where do I access what I need to start soaking that in some penetrating oil? Do i go from underneath or pull the center console?
Thanks in advance for the help, and I plan on using this post as a string for questions as they come up and to have a psuedo-build thread.

 

Well welcome to the club of the never ending to do list. Did you read through the tech section for D1? Check that out for the oil and filter thread. Plus check out Disco Mikes thread on maintenence. Substantial gains using the Rotella and mongo filter.

After that yes clean your sump and pick up tube. Cleanliness and clearence in the oil pump is very important. But keep in mind much of your oil pressure is about bearings not about the actual oil pump.

CDL acess is from the top. There are a few that I did it from below that I read about...but if you do it from the top you can get to all the linkage the shifter and the solenoid.

Good luck! Oh and download the RAVE manual. Invaluable.

 

Congrats. Love the white, it stays looking good forever. Good luck on your new project!

 

Thanks for the help. I scoured the tech section and somehow missed that oil post. I already have the rave manual and have been looking through it for some ideas on certain jobs. I have ordered the mongo filter and already have rotella so I will report back with those items when I get to that. I want to drop the pan and clean the sump during the oil change. What exactly am I looking for as far as the bearings go on the crank? How do I tell whether or not they need replacement?

Thanks again.

 

Also, I got a code for camshaft position sensor fault and want to replace the sensor.

Will this one work? Land Rover Discovery II 99 04 Camshaft Cam Position Sensor ERR6169 | eBay

I know it's listed for a d2 but it looks exactly the same. I'm probably reaching here but I can't find a used sensor to save my life, and really don't want to spend 300+ on a new one.

 

Journal diameter just like any engine, specs in the Rave.

 

Well you wont be able to actually look at the bearings even w the pan off. You can carefully look thru the sludge at the bottom and the pick up screen for bearing material. This will be a tell tale sign of bearings taking a crap.

I've done them w out pulling the motor in some classic iron V8's but never on the aluminum Rover V8. So someone more experienced can chime in.

As far as the sensor goes...I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure the D2 uses a different management system.Even though it physically fits I think its values will be way off..again I could be wrong here

 

First, if you ever need a cam sensor for a DII contact me. My price for the same unit is 33% less. Second, while the sensor may look the same it is not. The DI and DII cam sensors are not interchangeable. Hell, even some of the GEMS cam sensors are not interchangeable. During the GEMS P38a production run there were two different cam sensors offerd, neither could be interchanged. Nor could they be interchanged with the DI GEMS cam sensor.

Awhile back Land Rover stopped carrying the cam sensors and availability dried up. I remember one of the online new parts resources was selling a new DI GEMS cam sensor for over $600. That's more than I pay for a whole truck! Production on the sensor was resumed but prices for new ones still hover around $300.

 

thanks, I will look into that.

I will check this as well, and from my research on the sensor you are correct on them being the same size and shape but are a different mgmt system.

I was the one who actually e-mailed you via ebay yesterday. I do believe I found one through a guy parting one out (fingers crossed). I will report back when I get to that point. I certainly appreciate the help. If you have a source for interior parts I will start with that once my motor is running up to snuff. I know I need the seat switches and covers for d1 and a couple of other things for starters. If you have them i'm sure we could work something out in the near future.

Thanks for all the help here I really appreciate it.

 

Once you remove a con-rod cap the shell almost without a doubt will show pure copper (zero tin) with 182k on the clock and who knows how many missed oil changes. You'll remove the other 7 then measure each journal and average your measurements divided by 8. I'd place a heavy bet your in the 10 over shell size. As long as you don't have any journals with too much slop or too tight after averageing you can swap in the new and bank up for an honest rebuild when you decide instead of a spun bearing and needing a replacement crank. That's all your doing, saving the crank. Bearings are sacrificial just like on a hub, pinion, shaft...... The cr cap bolts are tty so don't reuse.

As far as flecks in the pan, aint a player. If I see sludge it's a given that there's wear.......everywhere. The pick-up screen isn't fine mesh but it does catch left over RTV like no other. That is the first thing to look at when the pan is initially off, the screen. It will be in the pan anyways.

By the way you should have seen the idiot light for low oil pressure with the hot idle readings you posted. Glows <8 psi.

So besides cr and main shells the pu screen, the oil pump and the rocker shafts and rockers are all areas to give lower than acceptable readings.

The oil pump issue is side to gear rotor distance, not gear to gear mesh wear. Front cover to gear rotor and side plate to gear rotor. If that tolerance is beyond min then it's spilling pressure right there.

The top end, well, remove the passenger valve cover and tell me what you see....... there are several areas where occlusion occurs. We'll talk once you get to that point.