As the RAVE even says you must program a new TPS using the testbook I know you are correct.

I ran out and found a chain wrench, worked great for removing the bottom bolt from the shock, not the top. For the top bolt I ran over and borrowed a grinder from a friend. 10 minutes and a few wounds in the shock tower and the shock was finally out.

Soooooo I goto reinstall the new Monro shock... it's missing all the lower mounting stuff, the rubber bushing etc... same with the other front, So I checked the rears, one had the parts, the other none.. So Another trip into town, and the only thing advance could do was refund my money for all of them. Then I ran next door to O' Reilly. And they pulled up the actual pictures of the sensetrac shocks and what they come with, I was not crazy, (Advance tried to tell me that you just reuse the bottom mounting hardware from the old shock, which I had with me to show them that that was not even possible since the bolts and etc are a different size, plus who wants to reuse that old rubber?) they should have both top and bottom mounting. Reordered them and they should be here in the AM. So the Shock adventure continues till then.

The plan after finally getting the shock on is to go ahead and order the TPS and the IACV and install them. Then have the truck towed to the dealer for programming. It's totally possible that in cleaning my old IACV that I moved that plunger.

I don't mind learning as I wrench... that's called growth Everything new I learn about the truck just make me more self sufficient and confident about being able to tackle the next job. Yes, that friggen testbook thing frustrates the crap out of me. Mainly cause I have wrenched on other car most my life and this is the first time I have been made dependent on a dearer. (My wife told me to save up and just buy a used testbook and be done with it)

 

NGAROVER:

"The plan after finally getting the shock on is to go ahead and order the TPS and the IACV and install them. Then have the truck towed to the dealer for programming. It's totally possible that in cleaning my old IACV that I moved that plunger."

Why were you cleaning the IACV in the first place? Is it possible your eagerness to clean it may have compounded the issue?

 

Again, you would have to go back to the original thread as the why, https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ighlight=p1316

 

If I remember well, when I cleaned my IACV I wasn't that careful while trying to get all the dried oil off it. There is a moving part at the tip of it and I remember quite well moving it to clean under it. The truck still idled fine after the cleaning.

 

The reason he cleaned the IACV and TPS is Spike told him too. Chalk another one up.. If you move the plunger, you can hose your idle up terribly. He never lets people know that. really, and erratic idle or high idle is the only reason to clean the IACV. Really no reason to ever touch the TPS.

I have a few observations here.....

sounds like you have the exhaust done and then it idled funny? I didn't see the O2 senors anywhere? If they are original (over 100K) or not hooked up, it will overfuel like crazy. This will cause black plugs and misfire like nobodys business.

Also sounds like the exhaust may be leaking? If you have leaks, it will give the O2's funny readings (if they are in there) and overfuel.

As for the jack situation, if you have anything taller than a 235/70, the factory jack won't get your tire off the ground. Jacking the axle does nothing for removing the shocks... I get what you are saying. If you have a 4x4 block of wood, you can try that as a spacer between the jack and frame. Make sure to spray the shock bolts with PB blaster a few times before trying the rears or you may be buying new rear shock mounts too. I bought a taller bottle jack and it fits right where the factory one goes. I am running 245/75's and had no way to get the truck off the ground.

I know you are frustrated. I would be too if someone had given me the advice you have been given, if you want to talk through things, PM me your #.

 

Ya, I cleaned both due to what was written in that other thread, but in all fairness, Spike never told me to take off the TPS and clean it, I was lead to believe, as others, that you could swap the TPS from another truck. Which fortunately I figured out after already having taking 1 of them off. Like I said, I'm just glad I stopped and checked again, before I removed it from my Daily Driver.

OK, I FINALLY got the new shocks on all the way around after picking up a second set this morning. Truck feels like a rock now. Course there will be no testing it until this rich running issue is fixed. Thanks you for the recommendation of getting a chain wrench. Without it, basically impossible, with it, cake. In the end I only needed to cut off the one mounting bolt, I was able to get the others off. The shocks where so bad, that the rubber grommets had not just worn out, they had literally become a rubber paste. I asked the guy I bought the truck from and he said they where the original shocks!!! ouch... 180+K and 14 years old... You can take them and move them in and out with your hands like they are just tubes... Oh well, fixed.

As to the running rich before, I honestly don't know. This truck had basically been abandoned and was sitting in a Walmart parking lot of about 7-8 months before I found it and bought it. It's a one owner truck, but the guy was a total dealer only kind of guy, doesn't know the first thing about cars. Other than limping it home after getting it started the day I bought it, and back and forth to the shops a few times getting the muffler etc put on I have not driven it. I would say a grand total of maybe 100 to 120 miles.

When I had the new system put on, they did reuse all 4 o2 sensors. 2 are in the ends of the header itself and 2 are behind the cats where they should be.

Now, I have just discovered (I honestly believe that the discovery got it name becuase you are always "discovering" more problems) another issue... My fuel tank leaks if you fill it up. I checked on the recall for it, and the dealer said it was replaced in 2005... which I find hard to believe if its already leaking again. My 97 had the same issue and it turned out to be a rotted line from the fill to the tank, gives me something to work on while I wait to raise the funds to get those sensors etc.

Well since buying it 3 months ago my fix list is now

New Headers, Cats, muffler, Valley Pan Gasket, valve cover gaskets, Shocks, Dash curl fix, headliner, sunroofs, disassembled and fixed AC switch, Both Seat switches. All new vacuum lines (believe it or not the Cruise actually works) Replace broken springs in the driver and cargo doors, fixed the keyless entry fob. Of course new oil plugs wires, wipers, air cleaner, thermostat, flushed the cooling system.

The to do list

TPS, IACV, Front blinkers and some of the trip lights, gas tank, washer pumps.

It's getting sooo close to being able to drive.

 

a few observations of my own:

Umm, that was me. You're welcome.

Also:
I assume you are referring to me. My only real point in all of this is that the dude seems to only hear what he wants, and that is frustrating also. It's like watching a guy hit himself in the head with a hammer and when you try to show him the lumps he gets mad at you.

I'll just sit here and wait for the angry post after he has that thing towed to the dealer and it turns out after $1500 not to fix his problem. You know, cause Spike said to. (In deference to Spike55 I have searched the posts and I can't find where he ever said anything other than might and maybe and could be.)

I'll just end with this tidbit from the RAVE, since this nugget seems to have been lost in all the churn. And again, I'm just doing this to try to save the guy $650. And I quote:

 

With all due respect to Okdisco and geek, Spike and I were trying to help him with an idle problem that we felt was due to either the TPS or IACV or both. We realized he had other problems with running rich and exhaust problems etc. Spike did tell him that removing the TPS would cause the ECU to need a reset. If you read the entire thread you can see what advice was given. If anyone gave him any wrong advice it would be me. And the advice I gave was based on the advice I was given by an LR Indie with an excellent reputation and a shop history of nearly 40 years. I figure they know what they are talking about. And they just swapped in another on my truck for diagnostic purposes so I did not realize it couldn't be done. So for those who keep picking at the "bad advice" he was given previously can blame it on me, chalk it up to a stupid mistake, and move on. Sorry. I needed to vent. Good luck nga. Hope you get it figured out.

 

Ok, this is the last thing I'm gonna add, cause I think we all have better things to do with our time than argue over this.

If you reread my post i was defending you and Spike. You guys (and okDisco) get props because you are usually right on the money and don't post crap.

I was an Army dude, now I work for the Navy and at times forget that the rest of the world works differently, so I tend to cut to the chase in pretty short order. I'm new here, and I don't want to start flame wars all over the board, as it is one of the few places I can get good information and the bozo factor is low. Humblest apologies to anyone I offended, especially ngaRover cause really I am only trying to help.

 

I went back and read what I posted and I think I was a little harsh and didn't intend to be. I was frustrated with something else and it came out in my post. I get what you were saying Geek and I realize you were helping. And I apologize to you to Okdisco. My bad.