Not starting...
Geek_Im, I know it was you that suggested the chain wrench. I was thanking you. I should have added your name to it. I'm sure I'll use that tool often as I can see where it would be good for quite a few things and it was only 25 bucks.
Like I said before, I don't think spike or discomedic where wrong, I took it a step to far. not their problem.
"CAUTION: CATALYST EXHAUST: If engine is misfiring or fails to start within 12 seconds the cause must be rectified. Failure to do so will result in irreparable damage to the catalysts. After rectification the engine must be run at 1500 rev.min (no load) for 3 minutes to pure any accumulation of fuel in the system."
Had never seen that. good to know for when I start up the truck after it's fixed. For now, It's staying shut off until I can get the parts.
It's looking like the dealer is my only choice. There is nobody in the Chattanooga area or even within a 2 hour radius of me that has anyway to program the ecu. It totally sucks because I have spoke to them on the phone a few short times and they seem like total asses over there. Should be interesting. I'm guess I should save up and by a jar of Vaseline also.
Like I said before, I don't think spike or discomedic where wrong, I took it a step to far. not their problem.
"CAUTION: CATALYST EXHAUST: If engine is misfiring or fails to start within 12 seconds the cause must be rectified. Failure to do so will result in irreparable damage to the catalysts. After rectification the engine must be run at 1500 rev.min (no load) for 3 minutes to pure any accumulation of fuel in the system."
Had never seen that. good to know for when I start up the truck after it's fixed. For now, It's staying shut off until I can get the parts.
It's looking like the dealer is my only choice. There is nobody in the Chattanooga area or even within a 2 hour radius of me that has anyway to program the ecu. It totally sucks because I have spoke to them on the phone a few short times and they seem like total asses over there. Should be interesting. I'm guess I should save up and by a jar of Vaseline also.
Well, I will say that I meant no offense to anyone either. I wasn't trying to single anyone out. I just noticed a lot of posts referencing things that didn't matter. A jack under the pumpkin will not help changing shocks. The rear axle needs to be fully extended or you have to be a hoss to hold the new shocks compressed. Just like a tps causing a rough idle. It may case a low idle, but if it is rough, it is something else. I didn't take any offense to what was written either.
I am just stumped as to why it is overfueling...I am going to call to try to clear it up. Results, if any, will be posted.
I am just stumped as to why it is overfueling...I am going to call to try to clear it up. Results, if any, will be posted.
I think what I need it a good scan tool to read any codes. the only CEL code that had been throwing is p1316, which of course does not tell you much. If it where the O2, I would think I would get a code for them.
The only tool around here for me to check in the one advance uses... does not tell you much. Has anyone tried using the ELM327 on these with any luck? If so, what kind of information have you been able to pull?
Since I have already most likely screwed up the TPS, is there a check (OME) that I can do on it to test it? I see a test for the 95 and older version but not the 96 and newer.
Fixed the fuel line issue. the 3/4 hose was cracked where it meets the vent. (same exact thing that was wronk on my 97... has to be a design flaw. Anyways, only way to replace the entire hose is to drop the tank and mine is full right now, so I had to patch it by cutting out the bad area and adding a piece in. It should be fine until the day comes when I can drop the tank.
The only tool around here for me to check in the one advance uses... does not tell you much. Has anyone tried using the ELM327 on these with any luck? If so, what kind of information have you been able to pull?
Since I have already most likely screwed up the TPS, is there a check (OME) that I can do on it to test it? I see a test for the 95 and older version but not the 96 and newer.
Fixed the fuel line issue. the 3/4 hose was cracked where it meets the vent. (same exact thing that was wronk on my 97... has to be a design flaw. Anyways, only way to replace the entire hose is to drop the tank and mine is full right now, so I had to patch it by cutting out the bad area and adding a piece in. It should be fine until the day comes when I can drop the tank.
Last edited by ngarover; Oct 8, 2010 at 12:56 PM.
Question: about the IACV.
I took mine off again just to take a look at it cause I was thinking about this whole "might have moved the plunger thing"
My plunger will not move. It's solid. I'm guessing from people being able to move theirs that this mean mine is totally shot? If not, is there a way to check it via OME etc?
I took mine off again just to take a look at it cause I was thinking about this whole "might have moved the plunger thing"
My plunger will not move. It's solid. I'm guessing from people being able to move theirs that this mean mine is totally shot? If not, is there a way to check it via OME etc?
Question: about the IACV.
I took mine off again just to take a look at it cause I was thinking about this whole "might have moved the plunger thing"
My plunger will not move. It's solid. I'm guessing from people being able to move theirs that this mean mine is totally shot? If not, is there a way to check it via OME etc?
I took mine off again just to take a look at it cause I was thinking about this whole "might have moved the plunger thing"
My plunger will not move. It's solid. I'm guessing from people being able to move theirs that this mean mine is totally shot? If not, is there a way to check it via OME etc?
The repair of it has again been setback to the other issues with the ball joints etc, I swear to god, when I finally get to a point where this truck can be driven I'm going to buy everyone here a beer!
I have been seriously considering just finding one of you guys that is the closes to me and seeing if we could just hammer this thing out. I have to ability to drag this truck to someone behind my other one. My main concern is that I'm going to do all this work to the engine to find out it's something else, like a stuck valve... at some point you just have to say enough is enough. If I'm going to have to put a lot of time and money into it It would seem to be better spend pulling the almost 200k 4.0, and swapping in a 4.6 with a lot less miles and have something that's better all the way around in the end. My understanding is that a gems 40 to gems 4.6 conversion it pretty strait forward. I've done engine swaps before and am currently working on one (a supercharged 3.8 into a former diesel 85 lesharo) Ya, I'm a glutton for punishment...
This is a truck I plan on keeping, the last major rebuild I did I had for over 14 years and I could see this truck sticking around here as long.
unless you can get it for 1000$ or less. If I remember well the plunger can turn and move backwards. On mine it always came back to its initial position when I was pulling it backwards.
With the repairs I have already made I have a total of 2k in it. Doing the math on all the other parts it needs so far, I figure another 600-1000.
2 years ago when I bought mine the guy who sold it to me said the whole truck was worth 400$ for scrap metal (because he seriously tought about it). It's definitely worth more now.


