So I changed my oil yesterday with Rotella T 15w-40 oil, (it's been about 5 months since my last change and I had Auto Trans Fluid Rinsed it also, but I only drive to work and back home..) and I sprayed the engine with de-greaser. I had covered the air filter area and distributor along with wires with plastic bags prior the spraying. After I rinsed it off with water I let it sit overnight. The next day it starts up fine and nothing wrong. I head to Home Depot. When about to leave I start the car and I hear this popping sound, well what do you know a freaking muffle crack.. On top of that my CEL came on and my little OBD screen under my passenger seat reads code 44. From what I remember of codes that means my lambda, aka O2, sensor right? Or am I missing something? Anything I can try BEFORE spending $140/ea for O2 sensors?

 

the codes do not necessarily mean that the sensing component is at fault. 44 means the left bank o2 sensor has detected an out of range condition. MAF (or plenum area air leaks), ECT, IACV, misfire (loose plug wire)..... can all set off the 44 code.

washing an engine is a perilous job which can also lead to codes due to connections at sensors being disturbed (broken connections or increased resistance.

and third, British Parts of Utah has three wire, OEM, Titania o2's for $105... that may not be the best you can find by a few bucks here or there but they are worth supporting. PTSchram is maybe a bit cheaper and RoverGuy (Will) may be also. I think Atlantic Brit is having a sale on them now too. BUT you may have another issue besides o2's which is causing them to throw that code through the ECM.

The OBD is just a guide to work by, NOT an absolute indicator of faulty components.

 

First of all thanks, now for the questions..
Okay, so I probably will first check my MAF sensor since the last time I removed it it threw a CEL code on me also. All I did was wiggle it and reinsert it, is there a way to check it though? I have no clue what an ECT is, hold up googling.., Engine Coolant Temperature? I foresee a lingering problem.

 

Before you foresee lingering problems and fear the worst start with simple stuff. Check your sensor connections at the plugs. Check your sparkplug wires for good, tight fit...

My guess for now is that you simply disturbed a wire or connection when cleaning the engine.

The code will not simply clear itself by the way once the problem is corrected. You will have to manually clear it by disrupting power to the ECM... some say find the plug up behind the pass. dash and disconnect it... I say disconnect the neg (-) batt. terminal for one minute and then re connect (easier and less disruptive to the wires and plugs in that area).

 

So new symptom..
Sometimes when I stop and accelerate I hear this pooping sound (I think it's my cat..) the rectangular thing looks like this:


When I try to accelerate I hear the popping sound and it feels like the car is grogged down and won't accelerate, and the popping becomes more and more repetitive as press the pedal. To fix it I turn off the car and restart it, I forgot to mention this happens SOMETIMES, normally when I brake or switch to park.

 

I hate cats. I'm a dog person. Get rid of the cat asap and get a dog...

 

what does a cat pooping sound like anyway?

 

Oh woops! I meant popping, obviously, hahaha

But I removed the neg battery terminal and it went away. Now to drive it and see if it stays off..brb guys.

 

Nope, it was fine for the tour de' neighborhood block. But once I hit this off road area, went up and down some hills, and came back onto the main road I stopped. Pressed on the accelerator and heard the popping noise again. Stopped Claire on the side of a building and took a look at the Cat box, hehe, and saw the crack. Would that cause the CEL to go off? How do I go about replacing it? New Cat or Down Pipe? Either way that sound needs to go..soon.

 

I was grave digging on the forum and found this bit of information
A few good things to do.... RE-check all vacuum lines...Clean the MAF (unless it is BRAND NEW) if it is new to you but previously used. The sensor wires when even slightly dirty will effect its output signal. Next pull that IACV / stepper motor and, as was suggested, clean the cone and lightly lube the spring and shaft with a little spray lube. The mating face (seat) in the plenum needs to be cleaned as well as the butterfly valve and bore on the intake side. All the oil residue in the throttle body needs to be cleaned up.

Is that gasket between the plastic body of the IACV and where it screws into the plenum still good?? If not, make a new one.

The IACV is easily checked for circuit operation... check for ohms across the pins on the backside of the stepper motor for both circuits... you should read about 50 ohms on both circuits (four pins... two pins per circuit)

Are the clamps on the intake hoses snug? is the O-Ring at the downstream end of the MAF there and in good condition?

Is the PCV system all free and clear to breathe? Filter on top of right valve cover is clean / unobstructed? None of the hoses or the "T" are cracked or loose?

Is the Vac. Advance diaphram on the Distributor in good shape... i.e. the diaphram is in tact and not allowing air flow? and is it hooked up to the correct port on the advance housing? some of them have two ports... one for pulling the diaphram out and the other for pushing it in... you want pulling.

After all that if you still have issues you probably have an air leak (ingress) from the lower mating edge of the plenum... if you can spray carb / starter spray anywhere around the plenum and increase RPM's temporarily then you have found a leak....try resealing the plenum.

If this is happening at idle while the car is NOT moving then you can rule out the VSS, TPS, temp sensors... most likely a simple air leak somewhere between MAF and intake manifold.

I'll try this all first.