Yes, and also this sort of thing is in the RAVE, see these pages from the maintenance section of the shop manual. Good idea to have a 1/2" breaker bar to get the plugs lose, you'll want to get the fill plug out first. If it won't come out, no point draining the lube and leaving truck disabled. Be gentle with the drain bolt on the transfer case. All three can refill with 85W140 gear lube, which is a heavier than original fill, but quiets older high miles units. Synthetic is OK also, but consider the cost if you like swimming with the Rover. The parts store has a plastic pump that will screw in the gallon jug to make re-fill easy. A pair of ramps, both on the passenger side (front & back) makes truck easier for a chubby boy like me to slide under.

 

Mine used to sag when I firt bought it from original springs and shocks, after I put the OME HD Springs and the new shocks on and removed the plastic air dam and the running boards that were rusted away at the mounts, I can practically ride my HF Creeper underneath from front to back and side to side without enev jacking it up and I am 6ft 250 lbs.

The diff's are a breeze, clean all that area and spray PB Blaster to help loosen the drain plugs. Use care to keep the wrench properly aligned and do not get over zealous. Use a long breaker bar if needed with a slow steady application of force. And when you tighten them back in, go easy and do not overtighten, you do not want to strip those threads. The drain plugs are magnetic, so you can see if you have much in the way of metal shavings in there..

Get the one-shot grease packs for your swivel *****. and clean them good before you start. Some of them have drain plugs some do not.

Also what about your tranny fluid and filter.

And the wheel bearings may need repacked or replaced as well.

I used the K&N oil filter, I like the wrench fitting made into the bottom of the filter, so you can use a socket to attach and remove it. I see the one on the other thread also has the same feature.

 

so you just fill till it is level with the level hole? how exactly do you need to be.

 

Just park it somewhere it wont roll and fill it till it almost comes out.

 

what brand of 85w 140? lucas, valvoline, or royal purple? and any particular grease gun?

 

The synthetic is supposed to lower whine noise the most, the dino versions are cheaper and you don't have so much pain draining and re-filling after water contamination from fording streams. I like a grease gun that can be held and pumped with one hand, but that would be for your zerk fittings, like on drive shafts universals. There is an oil pump for under $10 that screws into the neck of a one gallon oil jug, and pumps that oil. These pumps don't live long, but is easier than a funnel.

 

Typically how much gear oil? So I buy enough.

 

3.6 pints per diff, 5 pints for the transfer case. So two gallons should do, some left over. This sort of thing is listed in capacities and fluids part of the shop manual.