Overheating
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Savannah Georgia
Well, it may be academic, as pump volume will also change by thermostat opening size, a stat does not have "snap" action. See pix of thermostat soup and notices variations in opening percentages. Many guys test a new stat on the stove before installing it, just to be sure.
You can diagnose a radiator by temperature usually. If clogged, the lower part tends to be much cooler than the top, because rows of tubes are full of gunk. My indy shop says a good condition radiator, warmed up, would be within 10 degrees F across the surfaces (not the tanks).
You can diagnose a radiator by temperature usually. If clogged, the lower part tends to be much cooler than the top, because rows of tubes are full of gunk. My indy shop says a good condition radiator, warmed up, would be within 10 degrees F across the surfaces (not the tanks).
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Mudding
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 137
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Good point - do you remove the fan for this? How do you avoid loosing fingers? Or use an IR thermometer?
Well, it may be academic, as pump volume will also change by thermostat opening size, a stat does not have "snap" action. See pix of thermostat soup and notices variations in opening percentages. Many guys test a new stat on the stove before installing it, just to be sure.
You can diagnose a radiator by temperature usually. If clogged, the lower part tends to be much cooler than the top, because rows of tubes are full of gunk. My indy shop says a good condition radiator, warmed up, would be within 10 degrees F across the surfaces (not the tanks).
You can diagnose a radiator by temperature usually. If clogged, the lower part tends to be much cooler than the top, because rows of tubes are full of gunk. My indy shop says a good condition radiator, warmed up, would be within 10 degrees F across the surfaces (not the tanks).
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
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From: Savannah Georgia
Please, no finger snacks (lol). You do this after truck is warmed up, and you turn off the engine. Feeling by hand (Mark 1 Palm Reader) or using an IR thermometer you check the surface of the radiator in spots "in front" of the fan.
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Mudding
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 137
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
I did not keep it, but my PO had done up my D1 with the belt running across the top of all the upper pulleys, no "under-over". He had also wired the two electric radiator fans to run backwards (reverse polarity), had a fan clutch that had no fluid. When you tuned on the AC at idle, the radiator fan would almost come to a stop because electric fans were subtracting air flow. Of course the radiator was full of calcium.
I guess you could call that condition "POOP" - Previous Owner Originated Problem.
Mike, Spike, and jafir put me on the right path.
IMHO it might be a good idea to print out the correct way, and tape it under the hood with clear plastic shipping tape, just in case a mechanic or DIY check was needed.
I guess you could call that condition "POOP" - Previous Owner Originated Problem.
Mike, Spike, and jafir put me on the right path.
IMHO it might be a good idea to print out the correct way, and tape it under the hood with clear plastic shipping tape, just in case a mechanic or DIY check was needed.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Jan 6, 2012 at 07:50 PM.
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Mudding
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 137
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From: Vancouver, Canada
I'm still hoping my experience mirrors yours in that all the repairs are those that are fairly inexpensive (haven't really had a chance to do much since I posted here but getting started tomorrow) ...
Based on the price I paid for the truck, I don't mind if I need to replace fan clutch, water pump, get a rad flush, new thermostat, new rad hoses, new head gaskets and maching to straighten out any minor "warps" in the heads ... All I am worried about is a cracked block or cracked cylinder heats from an unknown amount of overheating by the PO.
If I get engine pulled and disassembled tomorrow I should hopefully have a better idea of what I am in for.
Speaking of which - comparing to a 1960/70s Chevy, is there anything I really need to be aware of when doing my engine pull? I plan to pull it out with tranny attached and therefore if it makes sense will just disconnect the driveshaft in front of the transfer case? From there, I am hoping it is just an adult lego project....
Based on the price I paid for the truck, I don't mind if I need to replace fan clutch, water pump, get a rad flush, new thermostat, new rad hoses, new head gaskets and maching to straighten out any minor "warps" in the heads ... All I am worried about is a cracked block or cracked cylinder heats from an unknown amount of overheating by the PO.
If I get engine pulled and disassembled tomorrow I should hopefully have a better idea of what I am in for.
Speaking of which - comparing to a 1960/70s Chevy, is there anything I really need to be aware of when doing my engine pull? I plan to pull it out with tranny attached and therefore if it makes sense will just disconnect the driveshaft in front of the transfer case? From there, I am hoping it is just an adult lego project....
I did not keep it, but my PO had done up my D1 with the belt running across the top of all the upper pulleys, no "under-over". He had also wired the two electric radiator fans to run backwards (reverse polarity), had a fan clutch that had no fluid. When you tuned on the AC at idle, the radiator fan would almost come to a stop because electric fans were subtracting air flow. Of course the radiator was full of calcium.
I guess you could call that condition "POOP" - Previous Owner Originated Problem.
Mike, Spike, and jafir put me on the right path.
IMHO it might be a good idea to print out the correct way, and tape it under the hood with clear plastic shipping tape, just in case a mechanic or DIY check was needed.
I guess you could call that condition "POOP" - Previous Owner Originated Problem.
Mike, Spike, and jafir put me on the right path.
IMHO it might be a good idea to print out the correct way, and tape it under the hood with clear plastic shipping tape, just in case a mechanic or DIY check was needed.
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Mudding
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, Canada
As an update on this thread -
Got my rad out and to a rad shop ... they said it was 75% blocked. Great news!
Now - I am deciding to either recore (quoted at $400 or so) or buy a new rad. I have found ones that do not appear to be OEM for about $550 and OEM for about $900 so am leaning towards a re-core.
Once I get that in, I will see if that fixes the problem or if there is engine damage from overheating which will still cause problems....
I am hoping to get it running before I pull the engine for an overhall as this will at least let me know that things are going well.
Wish me luck ....
Got my rad out and to a rad shop ... they said it was 75% blocked. Great news!
Now - I am deciding to either recore (quoted at $400 or so) or buy a new rad. I have found ones that do not appear to be OEM for about $550 and OEM for about $900 so am leaning towards a re-core.
Once I get that in, I will see if that fixes the problem or if there is engine damage from overheating which will still cause problems....
I am hoping to get it running before I pull the engine for an overhall as this will at least let me know that things are going well.
Wish me luck ....
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
Sometimes a used radiator can be found at salvage yard, some from a Range Rover can fit with very little modification. Or go with a basic radiator that will fit (el cheapo supremo) and add a better temp gauage than stock. Two popsicles ought to do better than what you have. Also, rad shop prices vary, try to find a small shop that works on construction and farm equipment.
Some rad prices:
Radiator for Land Rover Discovery 1 V8 - ESR3687, ESR3688 - 1997
or
Radiator Discovery 1 & 95 Classic | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com
and Discount Car Parts Stuff - Car Accessories & Truck Accessories - Cheap Auto Parts - Car Cover - Floor Mats - Cargo Liner - 1997 Land Rover Discovery Radiator Stock Replacement
Some rad prices:
Radiator for Land Rover Discovery 1 V8 - ESR3687, ESR3688 - 1997
or
Radiator Discovery 1 & 95 Classic | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com
and Discount Car Parts Stuff - Car Accessories & Truck Accessories - Cheap Auto Parts - Car Cover - Floor Mats - Cargo Liner - 1997 Land Rover Discovery Radiator Stock Replacement
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Jan 23, 2012 at 09:45 PM.
