Overheating
Well, no, while the rad could cause over heating, if tested at shops that is probably out. You have changed thermostats, some people run the stock 192-195, some run a 180, a 160 won't give much heat, and the lower temps can impact fuel economy. You can run with no thermopstat for testing, temps may be so low the ECU does not go to closed loop fuel configuration. And a thermostat can be stuck in backwards, the spring part goes inside the block. But a $10 thermsotat may eliminate other things. A water pump can be low flow, because the impeller is slipping internally or some blades are eaten away. The fan belt can be on the wrong way (see attached) , causing pump to run backwards. A previous owner can wire the AC condenser fan backwards, and truck will over heat at certain speeds because the backwards electric fans subtract air flow from the radiator fan. A plastic bag held in front of grille should be pulled toward grille, not blown away.
Exhaust gas in the cooling system can make hoses hard, high heat. There is a $50 chemical test for that, and it does enough tests to be a proof or repair for a head gasket job. There is dye you can put in coolant and then check plugs to see if it shows up in a particular cylinder or the oil.
Exhaust gas in the cooling system can make hoses hard, high heat. There is a $50 chemical test for that, and it does enough tests to be a proof or repair for a head gasket job. There is dye you can put in coolant and then check plugs to see if it shows up in a particular cylinder or the oil.
So with no coolant loss, no white smoke, no coolant in oil...
Any gurgling noise under dash (that would be bubbles in coolant moving around)? A system that is not purged can have a big air bubble at the roof of the intake, and prevent the stat from opening when it should. On method around this is a 1/8 inch hole in the flange of the stat, which allows that air to pass by, and a very small quantity of coolant.
The air could be exhaust from a cracked block or head, or HG leak. Exhaust gas in coolant test can confirm.
A digital scanner can tell you what the exact temp is, the gauge shows 9:00 for a big range. Pix attached.
Stat might not be opening when it should, you can test on the stove - pix attached.
You can hook up a cold water hose for extended idle testing (after saving coolant you just let water run out on the ground from a loose clamp. Takes radiator out of the equation somewhat.
With all the work, fan blade might have ben put on backwards (cupped side of blade toward engine) Pix of a jumbo fan wih heavy duty Chevy fan clutch.
Any gurgling noise under dash (that would be bubbles in coolant moving around)? A system that is not purged can have a big air bubble at the roof of the intake, and prevent the stat from opening when it should. On method around this is a 1/8 inch hole in the flange of the stat, which allows that air to pass by, and a very small quantity of coolant.
The air could be exhaust from a cracked block or head, or HG leak. Exhaust gas in coolant test can confirm.
A digital scanner can tell you what the exact temp is, the gauge shows 9:00 for a big range. Pix attached.
Stat might not be opening when it should, you can test on the stove - pix attached.
You can hook up a cold water hose for extended idle testing (after saving coolant you just let water run out on the ground from a loose clamp. Takes radiator out of the equation somewhat.
With all the work, fan blade might have ben put on backwards (cupped side of blade toward engine) Pix of a jumbo fan wih heavy duty Chevy fan clutch.
Got a third opinion on the rad to find out which of the two guys was out to lunch ... consensus -- the rad is toast. Based on smooth running and reasonable compression test I am going to conclude (for now) that the engine is in reasonable shape and that it is just a rad issue .... Time for a new rad...
Only question - I can get the rad fully re-cored for $550 or I have found a rad for the same price new Land Rover Radiator - Radiator For Discovery I And Range Rover Classic Vehicle
However, I can't tell from the description if this is aluminum or copper or how good it is ...
What would you guys recommend I do?
Any other suggestions?
Only question - I can get the rad fully re-cored for $550 or I have found a rad for the same price new Land Rover Radiator - Radiator For Discovery I And Range Rover Classic Vehicle
However, I can't tell from the description if this is aluminum or copper or how good it is ...
What would you guys recommend I do?
Any other suggestions?
A D1 has a copper/brass radiator stock. And a thick one. You can buy one that is aluminum perhaps, but it will be thinner and less cooling. You might try a salvage yard, about $50, and then see if rad shop can flush it and rod it out. The one for a manual tranny leaves off the oil cooler, so shop carefully.
As a long overdue conclusion to this thread:After ruling out everything else including water pump, thermostat, fan, head gasket, etc I took the plunge and re-cored the rad for $500.Installed today and drove around for about 4 hours with no problems what so ever.With the cost of the truck and the rad, I have a fully functional Disco with 115k miles, brand new tires, a great interior, and a couple other goodies for $1400. Can't complain.Now en to less painful projects for it such as - replacing the rear view mirror that is broken, getting the right rear window back on its track, fixing the stuck diff lock, replacing top end gaskets to get rid of an annoying oil leak and some other minor changes. Maybe if I get everything as I want it I will splurge on a suspension upgrade, a winch bumper and a roof-top tent.Thanks for all the help in working through this problem and I am glad (at least for now) I have a happy ending.
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General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
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