im no expert but my educated guess would be that a clogged pcv valve would have a direct link to misfire codes such as p1313 and p1414. This is simply because the intake plenum would not get enough air therefor causing a misfire in both banks. Hence p1313 and p1414. 13 is bank a and 14 is bank b. A clogged pcv valve would not allow the oil pressure to be alleviated, as well. So to me this would be concerning. In order to unclog it you probably would have to remove the valve cover (only 4 bolts each). And most likely you would have to replace the valve cover gaskets. If I were you I would install the oil catch can, but if you have the original sponge/filter you might be fine without replacing it.

BTW the rave page your looking at is probably the wrong page for your engine. I'll send you the correct page. Or give you the page # which ever you would like.

 

Pages 11 and 12 in the 4.0 V8 repair section look right but say nothing about a valve or oil separator in the right cover. The information in the emission control section appears to be all about the 3.9 PCV valve and not the 4.0 device.

 

ok ill post the page that i used

 

ok heres page 1 of the emission control repair section.

Service repair number 17.10.02 is the one i used

 

Yep, that's the page I saw which is nothing like my 4.0 engine. I didn't find anything about an oil separator or how to remove it - just how to remove the right valve cover.

Anyone with a 4.0 want to chime in? Is this something I can just pull out and clean or poke a hole in?

 

I'll chime in, neither of you are using the correct vehicle to look up the "oil separator" that is used. Look in the P38 (Range Rover) CarParc. Section 17 - Emissions Control, page 7. There you'll find the spiral "oil separator" that's used with all GEMS controlled engines.

Phil, your separator is missing a molded pin that is used to extract the "oil separator", it's busted off and missing. You'll need some type of sharp pointed tool to try and dig that out of the valve cover port. If you don't do it that way then you have to remove the valve cover and then the oil splash shield inside the valve cover and push it out. It's one of the most common issues with idle control besides the IACV pintle and port being heavily carbon coated.

Very first thing I corrected on my motor was removing a completely occluded oil separator and immediately the idle mellowed and I had more power when pushing the skinny pedal. Because I've taken up head gasket replacements as a side hobby I've had the chance to see many neglected motors. I've seen the valley pan pushed up under the intake so hard it molded itself to the intake runners just for this very issue. Looked like an octopus fell from 20 stories into a pie tin......bad. That engine was a night and day difference from start to finish and I managed to intervene just in time to save it.......

 

I didn't find a link to that manual, but did find a photo of an oil separator on AB's site. Is this what I need to dig out?

BTW, I was trying to watch the AB video on removing D2 valve covers and oil separator and got to the part where apparently the D2 oil separator came out with the hose (a different hose than is on my 98) just before my laptop crashed - the d__n thing doesn't let me watch videos for very long before it shuts down which is very frustrating.

 

That is the part. I have the whole Rave on everything from the L322 Range Rover down to the Series IIA, R380, ZF transmission rebuilds, GEMS, so on and so forth. The one thing about the Rover company is that they have many platforms that share the same parts. The PCV system that is in the Disco section covers the 3.9 MFI motor only and not the 4.0 SFI. The Rave isn't perfect.

 

Turned out there was still a little nib on top of the oil separator once the carbon was scraped away and I was able to free it up with carb cleaner and pull it out; well, what there was of it, that is. It looked like a plug when it came out and once cleaned it had just three sections instead of five and I didn't find the rest of it when I cleaned out the tube with a little pick and paper towels wrapped around a screw driver. the tube was 1.73" deep to the bottom.

I also cleaned out the bib from the plenum with a 7/64" drill bit (1/8 was too big) and put the oil separator and hose back on. I don't see any difference just idling - still 700 RPM warm - but hopefully this will help the driving.

Oh yes, ignore the date on the paper - it was just a scrap I grabbed to make the oil separator show up.

 

Phil, next if you would you should remove the plenum cover and clean up the trumpets and floor. I do that at least once a year. That will net you a mile per gallon having the trumpets clean and smooth instead of oil covered. The port where the oil separator enters still may have oil sludge covering it but further into the plenum, might is the operative word. If it is open then it should pull vapor through to be burned once more. It may have been open enough to do so.