OK, update.

I ran over and got the truck with the new tie rod ends... Man it feels solid on the road. Like a rock. That's the good news.

It was of course missing and black smoking all the way home. (This is on the new set of plugs and wires) It ran 60-70 mph, just badly. I ran it over and had the check engine light checked again. Again, the only code on the truck is P1316.

What drives me nuts it that there are no other codes to go with it.

I'm going to head outside and swap the O2 sensors front to back retest the fuel pressure and make double damn sure the wires are on right...

Update, Double checked wires. Fine. Swapped O2 sensors around (pain in the butt job, actually just went ahead and took off the coils to reach the 2 front plugs) Put it all back and runs as bad as it did before the swap. So I'm ruling out the o2's.

Really about the only thing I can do at this point is have it taken in.

 

Haven't read through the post yet, but I have to comment on this. You keep telling people the rear 2 don't matter... read what you wrote.. If the ECU thinks the cats aren't working, it will overfuel to heat up the cats so they are working... really wish you would stop telling people this..

 

nga - do you have any exhaust leaks at all? Have you cleaned your MAF?

I would check for leaks, clean your MAF, unplug your fuel temp sensor and replace your thermostat. (unless you have replaced it recently)

Can you see black smoke from the pipe? Does it stumble mostly when you are moving, or does it stumble when you rev it in park? What was the part # of the plugs you put in?

 

The NAS Disco's are the only ones fitted with the "extra" two downstream O2's. The solitary function of these sensors (as has been said) is to determine proper function of the cats. If the cats fail to function this simply sets off the warning light. Usually they'll just rattle like hell as the honeycomb structure has disentigrated. ONLY the two upstream O2's have a direct effect on fuel mapping. When the upstream sensors are functioning properly they will 'alert' the ECM as to the air:fuel mixture exiting the cylinders. If you measured the Oxygen value across the sensor wire AFTER the cats (assmuming they also function correctly) your oxygen levels will be different as these gasses are post-chemical reaction.

The most accurate measurement of O2 is pre cat.

 

OK is absolutely right about checking your sensors before spending miles, time and money. Whip out that multimeter and test the coolant temp sensor... with a warm engine you should get a resistance measurement around about 300 ohms. As temp INCREASES with these sensors (thermistor) the resistance value goes down... i.e. cold = high ohms and hot equals lower ohms.

This is very easy to do and will eliminate causes in a factual way.

For the record, Coolant temp is measured during COLD startup to determine air:fuel ratio...
Fuel temp is measured to determine air:fuel ratio during HOT startup...
Intake air temp is measured to determine timing if the ambient temps are above 130* F (this fault is rarely a prob.)

 

Black smoke pours out the rear pipe... Stumbles in idle, under acceleration etc. Thermostats new., Exhaust is leak free, also new. I've had 2 sets of new plugs in it both champions oem, 2 sets of new wires.

I'll wait until the ford injectors I ordered get here and toss them in. If it's still running like total crap, it will go off to the shop. If it turns out to be internal to the engine, I'm dumping a 4.6 in there and be done with it.


I would do the diesel swap but I now have too much money in the new headers and exhaust to just toss them. Then again, the diesel might be the way to go for the simple fact it's computerless and not reliant on all these sensors to run?

Sometimes these trucks can be so annoying.

As to a swap to diesel, The kit is 817 bucks shipped to my door and includes the engine mounts, altered oil pan and trans adapter. Engines run 250-600 bucks depending on if your talking the OM617 Turbo or the 5 cly 603 Turbo. With more work it even looks like the 603 6 cyl version could be made to fit by moving the radiator forward a bit...

By my math I could have it done for under 5k complete, but have a truck thats easy to work on and requires no more testbook. If I stick a 4.6 in there I'm still at the mercy of that damned computer...

Sorry more rambling to myself at this point, just getting fed up with this engine...

 

Sorry, I really don't know how to do this. I have a meter but have no idea how to use it for anything other than checking continuity.

 

*edit* - (rephrasing this statement) Continuity is resistance............ When you measure the "continuity"of a circuit you are measuring its resistance so to speak. If there is no continuity between two points (where you place the probes) you will get a reading of infinite resistance (broken circuit - because of a switch being OPEN or a bad connection). some multimeters display this state as "OL". A "perfect circuit will have an extremely low ohm value ( between 0.0 and 0.3 is good) the higher the ohm value the more resistance... there is still continuity but with greater resistance. Sensors are designed with a particular resistance value range and the measurement will reveal the sensors state of resistance. In the case of a thermistor (temp sensor) the value will change as the temperature varies. Does this help you out?

you already know how to do it. Put one probe on one termial / post and the other probe on the other.... then you get your value on the readout. You are ready to rock.

 

Diesel swap me want

 

http://www.smt.nu/default.asp?Expand=4&Display=3

I've been talking with him about getting a kit.

"The 6 cyl MB 300 D/TD is very suitable to mount in Range Rover, Landrover Discovery and Landrover Defender, all with V8 engine. The kit exists for both 4 / 5-shift manual gear box and 4-shift automatic gear box. The engine suits very well in the car, only the front crossbeam needs a small modifying. The oil filter on the engine’s rear left side will land up under the part of the bulkhead, which is out over the rear of the engine, and therefore the whole oil filter container on the cylinder block has to be sub assembled, when the filter is changed. An alternative way is to mount the filter container on another place. The Mercedes system for servo steering, brake servo, alternator, starter etc., is used even on the Rover cars.
The kit is only for off road use. We don’t take any responsibility for other use.

The kit contents following details:
- Adapter
- Flywheel (only for manual gearbox)
- Adapter for the converter incl. special bolts (only automatic gearbox)
- Engine mountings ( the original mountings in the chassis is used together with this ones)
- Instruction"

He has kits for the other engines, the GMC 6.2 and a couple volvo engines.