Power seats
I guess I should give some background lol. I just got a 98 D1 parts rig that I will be cannibalizing onto my 97 Disco. The power seats in my current disco are all torn up (bought it that way) and I want to swap out the much nicer seats from the parts rig. Any ideas or suggestions?
P.S. After I get the parts I want from this rig I will be parting it out. So keep in mind parts you may want and Ill start a new thread when its ready to be parted
P.S. After I get the parts I want from this rig I will be parting it out. So keep in mind parts you may want and Ill start a new thread when its ready to be parted
As long as the 2 cars both are equipped with power seats, its a straight forward swap.
I just did it. I put heated seats into a non heated equipped car, so the wiring and buttons for the heaters were not present, but the adjustment controls plug right in.
Should be 4 torque bolts per seat and and some electrical plugs.
I just did it. I put heated seats into a non heated equipped car, so the wiring and buttons for the heaters were not present, but the adjustment controls plug right in.
Should be 4 torque bolts per seat and and some electrical plugs.
Thanks abran! Are there many differences between the 97 and 98 model (I know this diverges from the thread topic)? Because I plan on swapping the doors from my rig (janky locks, paint job, and interior trim), the headliner (typical sag), and then the hood (purely cosmetic, sun bleached paint) from the parts rig. Then I want to take some key things that are expensive to replace such as fuel pump, alternator, prop shafts, etc. Thanks for the input
All the body panels are the same, direct swap.
As for the headliner, I'm betting that with the flex and abuse of removing and re installing the headliner will end up in similar shape as the old one.
The foam deteriorates and the glue pulls away. Worth a try, but with all the labor involved, you might want to scrape the foam off and glue on new fabric. I have a local guy that does it all for $200.
The fuel pump, ECM, and drive shafts should all be the same. Essentially 97-99 are the same. 96 and before have some differences like roto flex coulper, non evaporative fuel system to name a couple.
Have fun! You will learn a lot during the dis assembly.
As for the headliner, I'm betting that with the flex and abuse of removing and re installing the headliner will end up in similar shape as the old one.
The foam deteriorates and the glue pulls away. Worth a try, but with all the labor involved, you might want to scrape the foam off and glue on new fabric. I have a local guy that does it all for $200.
The fuel pump, ECM, and drive shafts should all be the same. Essentially 97-99 are the same. 96 and before have some differences like roto flex coulper, non evaporative fuel system to name a couple.
Have fun! You will learn a lot during the dis assembly.
Thanks again for the input and knowledge! One more thing, how hard is it to remove body panels and swap them out? Looking forward to the disassembly and knowledge I'll gain from it. Haha and maybe soon I can start replying with answers rather than asking questions
Hood and doors are the easiest.
Hood- I would use a sharpie and outline the mounting bracket footprint on the hood for when you re-attach. Its not guaranteed that they are in the same place, but at least its a starting point. Having your hood mis aligned can lead to your hood release cable not releasing because the striker/closing mech is not aligned. Not fun. 4 bolts total, easy as pie.
Doors- The easiest way it to remove the circle clips on the central hinge point. One per hinge(at the the top), then just lift the door up and off.
Fenders- A little harder, the bolts at the front door fender junction are the hardest to get to.
Rear Quarters... Tough, especially the side with the gas tank. Be careful and go slow. You have screws along the inside door jambs, bolts on the interior under the windows and above, and i think 2 under the rear wheel wells/fenders.
The roof is welded on.
Now you really need some luck. Just remember that if a panel is not coming off, stop and look again for a missed screw/bolt. One that you forget to remove could ruin the panel if you try to pull.
Hood- I would use a sharpie and outline the mounting bracket footprint on the hood for when you re-attach. Its not guaranteed that they are in the same place, but at least its a starting point. Having your hood mis aligned can lead to your hood release cable not releasing because the striker/closing mech is not aligned. Not fun. 4 bolts total, easy as pie.
Doors- The easiest way it to remove the circle clips on the central hinge point. One per hinge(at the the top), then just lift the door up and off.
Fenders- A little harder, the bolts at the front door fender junction are the hardest to get to.
Rear Quarters... Tough, especially the side with the gas tank. Be careful and go slow. You have screws along the inside door jambs, bolts on the interior under the windows and above, and i think 2 under the rear wheel wells/fenders.
The roof is welded on.
Now you really need some luck. Just remember that if a panel is not coming off, stop and look again for a missed screw/bolt. One that you forget to remove could ruin the panel if you try to pull.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
goatman
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
2
Jan 12, 2013 10:08 AM
booper169
Discovery I
1
Nov 9, 2010 09:10 AM
heinzeman
Discovery II
5
Oct 7, 2010 04:57 AM
stevesamlone
Discovery II
3
May 24, 2010 01:45 PM



