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Rear Brakes Not Working After Brake Job

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Old 11-13-2014, 08:48 PM
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There is no such thing, it's either all or nothing. It's not that sophisticated. Many of us either have it disabled or keep it working and in either case all four calipers work just like they're supposed to. There is a front and rear on your master cylinder, sure the pistons' working correctly? There's even a partition in the brake reservoir. Bleed the master cylinder.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
There is no such thing, it's either all or nothing. It's not that sophisticated. Many of us either have it disabled or keep it working and in either case all four calipers work just like they're supposed to. There is a front and rear on your master cylinder, sure the pistons' working correctly? There's even a partition in the brake reservoir. Bleed the master cylinder.
How do you bleed the master cylinder? The reason I thought it might be ABS is that it happens with some newer GM vehicles that you have to open up the ABS block in the computer system in order to bleed the brakes properly, so I wasn't sure if that needed to be done or something
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 98discoj
And is flushing it just bleeding it so much that you completely empty it of all the old fluid?
yes

Originally Posted by 98discoj
How do you bleed the master cylinder? The reason I thought it might be ABS is that it happens with some newer GM vehicles that you have to open up the ABS block in the computer system in order to bleed the brakes properly, so I wasn't sure if that needed to be done or something
pop off the lines and bleed it back into itself with a bench bleed kit, like this:



you don't need to remove the master to do this. as long as the tubes are submerged in fluid, just pump the brake pedal until the air is out. then hook up the brake lines again and bleed the system. air gets trapped in these trucks pretty easy, so when you think you got all of the air out, bleed it again, and then again.
 
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Old 11-15-2014, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MM3846
yes



pop off the lines and bleed it back into itself with a bench bleed kit, like this:



you don't need to remove the master to do this. as long as the tubes are submerged in fluid, just pump the brake pedal until the air is out. then hook up the brake lines again and bleed the system. air gets trapped in these trucks pretty easy, so when you think you got all of the air out, bleed it again, and then again.
Okay so even on the vehicle I would do a set-up similar to your picture? And how will I know when the air is out by doing this?
 
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