Before I pulled the center console to work on the T-Box, all my windows worked, but after reinstalling everything only my front windows work. I checked the 30 amp fuse 2 in satellite fuse panel 2 and it is OK. I swapped the connectors on the window switches and they will all work the front windows. The rear window disable switch makes and breaks, but neither the center panel switches nor the rear door switches will operate the rear windows in either disable or enable switch position.

Is there a fuse somewhere that I have missed?

 

This article is linked in the "Tech Section" but I'll lay it out here for ya; Repairing the Window Lift ECU - How To

 

I also checked the 10 amp fuse 15 in the main fuse panel and it is OK too. I didn't do anything near the dash where the Z147 window lift ECU is located, but I did blow the cigar lighter fuse when I was removing the center console.

Any other fuses I need to check or any grounds behind the center window switch panel that could get undone?

 

OK, Thanks. I'll be reading that; looks very well detailed. Still seems odd that the rear windows would get futzed by removing the console and not touching the lift ECU, but stranger things have happened. I'll try to Keep Calm And Carry ON.

 

PITA, but a common problem. Before you get in to the ECU you might want to bypass the rear circuit. AB sells AMR1282RK for this fix. You DON'T need to spend $20 on a wire, but have a look at the instructions. Very simple fix.
Window Lift ECU Repair Kit

 

Could just be a coincidence. From what you've posted it points to the Window Lift ECU though. It's so common that everyone who owns a Rover will experience it at some time in their ownership unless a prior owner addressed it. Keep Calm and Chive On.....

 

So does that proceedure supply 12V+ from a different source than the window lift ECU? I am guessing they are tapping into 12V+ because the cigar lighter also has a green/white wire to its center tap. (hard to follow the connector in the ET guide without an actual wiring diagram)

Any problem with splicing a wire to the white/pink on the lift ECU connector without cutting it and then splicing to the white/green of the C2073 connector?

 

I followed the instructions and it took care of my rear door window problems. a year later and it is still working great. Just got to get to the pass front window, and the cruse control next...

 

Update: I drove down to the boathouse after having the battery disconnected while I tried to check the crankshaft position sensor (couldn't get the cover off), and low and behold the rear windows were going up and down again. I'll probably have to do the window lift repair or bypass sometime, but for now it has fixed itself.

 

I did the Above stated ECU repair for free and works like a charm. Granted, you must have a soldering gun, solder and some scrap piece of electrical wire. took about 15-20 minutes and most of that was pulling/re-installing the window ECU.