yeah getting the confidence to do the work yourself isnt always easy. this being my only means of transport would be bad if I fubard it

 

i've done some highway walking, neighbor apologizing and have been suckered by a bunch of less than ethical and totally insane parts people.

but the learning process has been super enjoyable and i've learned a lot which I value. there's also a bunch of really good guys around here that will help you out. kiss kiss.

 

Slang, my friend, HANG IN THERE! But exercise a little caution and finesse too!

Then pull the plenum, stacks, intake manifold and heads... you WILL see that not much has been done and you WILL still need to actually get in there and scrub-a-dub...

I have had a pretty similar feeling about the majority of the additives that are out there. As I said, I recently did the Spray Seafoam, but like our buddy Cosmo has pointed out that is sort like spraying bactine on road rash I am afraid.

One big difference from what I gather is the grade of gas you used and how often the oil was changed.

I think we all have varying degrees of previous neglect or even abuse to deal with, so we are all in similar boat. But we must also be careful not to do massive damage either.

I know DM really pushes Seafoam and a few others praise it. I am about to change my poil top Rotella and probably that same filter as you did. I see that both CRC and STP or one of the big players has new products almost word for word as the Seafoam.

Also several other products claim to be excellent flushes prior to oil changes.
I was comtemplating one of those, the questioin is which one?

I popped another 1316 code, cleared it, read live data with the Advanced Auto loaner Actron. The only thing that I could see that looked whack was "STFTRM11%" WAS -25.0gf whatever that is and
"STFTRM21%" WAS -25.0 AS WELL.

Is that the O2 inputs?

I plan to purchase one of the UltraScans and I am thinking the p1316 is O2 related? in my case? or maybe a vacumn issue?

I occasionally hear a slight rattling noise that makes me think of what other have described as the CATS going bad.

Another thing Slang, I too had a burned out gasket at one of my Y-Pipe- junctions on the exhaust. In trying to fix that, I dam,aged one exhaust manifold, purchased a used one from Will Tillery for 45 bucks and redid both sides with all new gaskets.

You could feel the exhaust leak at that y-pipe by holding your hand near it. Beware of touching it though, it burns!

Is it worth it to do a heat wrap on these exhaust? I saw lots of those products at Advanced Auto too.

Slang, take a look at the Meguir's products for buffing. And Mothers Products, both have excellent stuff foir renewing that faded paint.

I saw a new product that Meguirs has that is a rough lambs wool for buffing out severely faded paint.

Do you have an air compressor? If not you may want to cosider getting one an get pneumatic buffers, and similar air powered tools. Being artistic, I would say get an airbrush set and a good sprayer as well. Oe guy i know here painted a few older Rovers in a large plastic sheet temporary spray booth they put up one weekend.

I keep degreasing mine getting ready to get creative on that emptied out interior.

 

Ok, I'm going to up the ante to $.04...

You are trying to learn and my hat is off to you for that.

Have you ever tried to clean hardened carbon off of something? You have to scrub it, it will not come off with a rinse.
Will the induction cleaning loosen some of it? Sure. Will it get the intake valves and piston tops squeaky clean? No way in hell. Can you insure that it gets to all cylinders in equal amounts? Nope.
Here are pics of the inside of the intake plenum of the DI, see the trumpets?
What vacuum port did you use? Do you see where all of your money went?
Right to the bottom where it was evaporated by the heat of the engine and then the vapors were sucked into the engine to be pushed out the exhaust.
Rover V8 inlet manifold photo archive

Technically kerosene is not a motor fuel, it is a heating oil and in a pinch it can be used as a diesel fuel supplement BUT it can only be used for short times in a diesel engine because it does not contain the lubricants that diesel fuel pumps and injectors require.

As for fuel injectors, lower quality fuels can contain contaminants that eventually collect in the fuel injector tip reducing the fuel amount to that cylinder as well as distorting the spray pattern.
Fuel injectors have a very very fine screen in them.
Fuel injectors squirt the fuel into the intake at a very high pressure and vaporize the fuel into a fine mist, that mist then travels past the intake valve and is sucked into the cylinder, then it is compressed and the spark plug sparks and ignites the fuel, the explosion then pushed the piston back down.
Those contaminates that get past the injectors will collect on the intake valves and pistons, the valves can then stick closed and cause a rough run, they will still open, only not open at the exact precise moment they are supposed to, everything inside a engine is exactly perfectly timed, change one thing and the whole thing is now out of time.
Engine parts wear, and parts in the same engine will wear at the same rate, change the timing chain in a 200k engine but not the cam, lifters, etc. and now the whole thing will be out of whack because all of the other parts have "slack" that is now gone in another part of the engine, in other words, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Quality fuels contain injector cleaner, continued use will clean the injectors and intake valves.
If the injectors are already bad and beyond repair then no amount of cleaner will fix them.

As for the oil, if you have a problem, like a tick that will not go away, then something like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil may help free a sticky lifter or valve.
If you use a high quality motor oil, like Rotella, it will clean your engine slowly over time and if used before a problem starts it will help prevent any problems.

If you read the owners manual in any car or truck they will all say not to use any oil additives or fuel additives or to do a induction cleaning.

I add injector cleaner before I go on a long trip, I usually double up on the dose, fill the tank and then drive at freeway speed for a full tanks worth of fuel.
I use only quality fuels, Shell, BP, Mobil...they all have a ton of cleaners in them but I still use the injector cleaner about once a year.
Why?
It makes me feel better and to me thats worth the $12.
Do I need to use it? Probably not.

Basically, as long as you use quality fluids/fuels and keep your truck well tuned (weak spark/mis fires causes carbon build up from incomplete combustion of the fuel, unburnt fuel hitting a hot piston instantly turns to carbon) and change the fluids and filters before they wear out you will have little to no problems.

If you bought a basket case, then you have your work cut out for you and these additives may be helpful.

Now here is my jerk side, have any of you guys ever noticed that guys like AntiChrist, Cosmic88 and my self never use these snake oils? Nor do we promote their use? And yet we have well running Rovers that last for years upon years with little to no problems.
We dont use computer chips, or "tornado's", or cold air intakes or special spark plugs etc.
We do nothing special, use quality fuel and good fluids, change as needed and enjoy.
It pretty much is that simple.

 

Spike, a hell of a lot more than $.04. Thanks. Those are some engine pics too. Not sure what I am looking at in many, but impressive craftsmanship and ingenuity for sure.

I want to be a mechanic when I grow up.

I abused my truck. NYC kids know nothing about vehicles and we surely weren't taught to wrench anything. I knew going in to my rebuild that it wasn't going to be practical or about the money for sure. I've spent way more that I "should" have to get to this point so it's point of no return for me.

That being said, it's gonna be a very uneven rebuild..your reference to timing chain replacement is spot on.

All I can say is that "my guy" lifted the plenum and cleaned the cylinders (guess trumpets is the same) and I hope the rest of the important bits while he was in there. I switched to premium, changed the oil and filter and now am trying to even things as much as possible. <BTW, when the inde did the timing chain/front cover her put in Amsoil> Wires and plugs next and whatever other projects I can pick up from here that I have a possibility of doing myself.

If for example I have a cracked manifold, I'll read up on it and take it back to "my guy". If it's too much for him than I have to take it to the independent which I really don't want to. But I have very little choice here.

It's a testament to this truck that she's not a basket case...at least I don't think so. I hope and still believe I can get her to be the best D1 on the island. Of course, none of you guys live here so that shouldn't be a problem.

Most of my stuff is basic and so I expect a bore for the experienced guys. But I keep pushing, maybe annoy a guy or two and see what I can do.

Thanks again.

 

Danny, I'm probably going Meguires or 3m because availability. I'm going to paint the roof because of rust damage but I'm not going to paint the truck. I'll compound her get her pig pretty and wash her again in another few years.

 

After reading the posts...

I cleaned out my MAF. It is the attached picture. It was nearly black with spots of lighter colors on the screen prior to cleaning. Plugged it back in and within a few miles it felt like a different vehicle with less drag.

Went home and put in the "Seafoam Spray". The clouds of smoke were not as others describe. There were a few puffs and after about 10-20 seconds there was no smoke. Afterwards I drove it for nearly an hour with no noticeable difference in performance or noise.

I am not sure if that helps, but when the variables were isolated it appears that Seafoam may have had little to no improvements on my vehicle.

 

wow, that's one pretty MAF. that's another question tho. some say leave it alone. and if there's a problem it will throw a code.

i want to do it just cuz i want everything clean all of a sudden.

BTW, it would be an SE7 if it had 3rd row seats. I think you are where you're supposed to be if you have an LSE....ie. no third row which isnt really a third row either but a couple jump seats in the back. IMO.

 

With regards to the MAF, there were no codes popping for it so it wasn't high on my list. The manufacture date on the side of the MAF was 8/1997, so my guess is that it is the original and assumed that it wouldn't be part of the engine swap that was done. The cleaner was $8 and the whole job took about 15 minutes.

I want the third row of seats, so I am looking for an SE7 or a set of seats from a Discovery without the rear air conditioner. I also want the bumper step, but these are all taking a second to the replacement of the front drive shaft and a new exhaust on the LSE.

 

love the jump seats but I imagine as the kids pass 15 or so they will lose all practicalitynessism.