So what did you do to your Disco today?
#1571
06-11-2013, 11:20 AM
Finally started the cooling system work. Didn't get too far though as the fan clutch has thwarted me for the first time ever (dealt with many a fan clutch over the years). I'm doing the rad, couple hoses, tstat, water pump. My truck always runs cold and it came from AZ so I suspected it may have had the tstat removed at some point for whatever reason. Turns out the tstat was not seated properly allowing a bypass, so to speak, all the time. Looks like whoever messed with this either did it on purpose or didn't understand basic repairs as it was all gooped up with RTV...I'm sure it was leaking though it generally seemed pretty dry for me.
Anyway, got that out, cleaned up the mating surfaces, installed new tstat. Back to the fan clutch.......tried numerous times to get the clutch off, not coming off really. I did not have a 36mm wrench so ended up using an adjustable wrench which makes it more difficult, the fan clutches I've always worked on are 32mm so I have a couple wrenches specifically for those.
Since I'm not planning on reusing it I figured I'd go ahead and just remove the water pump with fan and all attached. Got all the bolts undone but the one long one on the pass side inteferes with the pulley and to make it a real problem, the system cannot be pulled out far enough to get the pump out with the clutch attached. Grrrr.....so I'll take the rad and pump assembly out all at once. Ran short on time though since it took a helluva long time to get the pump bolts out with all that crap in the way.
More tonite, assuming it's not downpouring on me.
Oh, almost forgot, during my work I noticed some very worn steering parts that I somehow failed see any other time I've been underneath. Front steering rod is shot (ball joints) and the rear is not far behind. This sucks because I'm not sure I'm going to have enough time to deal with these before we leave for vacation. If I can't I won't be able to take the Rover. More Grrrrr......
Cheers.
Anyway, got that out, cleaned up the mating surfaces, installed new tstat. Back to the fan clutch.......tried numerous times to get the clutch off, not coming off really. I did not have a 36mm wrench so ended up using an adjustable wrench which makes it more difficult, the fan clutches I've always worked on are 32mm so I have a couple wrenches specifically for those.
Since I'm not planning on reusing it I figured I'd go ahead and just remove the water pump with fan and all attached. Got all the bolts undone but the one long one on the pass side inteferes with the pulley and to make it a real problem, the system cannot be pulled out far enough to get the pump out with the clutch attached. Grrrr.....so I'll take the rad and pump assembly out all at once. Ran short on time though since it took a helluva long time to get the pump bolts out with all that crap in the way.
More tonite, assuming it's not downpouring on me.
Oh, almost forgot, during my work I noticed some very worn steering parts that I somehow failed see any other time I've been underneath. Front steering rod is shot (ball joints) and the rear is not far behind. This sucks because I'm not sure I'm going to have enough time to deal with these before we leave for vacation. If I can't I won't be able to take the Rover. More Grrrrr......
Cheers.
#1572
06-11-2013, 11:40 AM
Indeed it is just that easy, can't count how many times I've done this on other cars as well as provided similar guidance to others on it. That's why I was so stumped. As I said, in this case I did not have the correct open end wrench and was forced to use an adjustable wrench which promptly loosened everytime I struck it with the hammer.
However, looking at this video I see he is turning the fan CCW to loosen it. In all my previously experiences, and I thought here based on what I'd read, I thought this was a reversed thread set up...righty loosey, not right tighty. If this is the case then it's perfectly clear why it did not work. And if so, even without the belt *off* I'm pretty sure I can knock it free.
Can anyone confirm the direction of the threads on this? And to make sure it's perfectly clear, if I'm facing the engine as in looking front to rear of the vehicle, am I spinning the fan/clutch to the left (pass side, CCW) or to the right (driver side, CW) to loosen it?
Thanks.
However, looking at this video I see he is turning the fan CCW to loosen it. In all my previously experiences, and I thought here based on what I'd read, I thought this was a reversed thread set up...righty loosey, not right tighty. If this is the case then it's perfectly clear why it did not work. And if so, even without the belt *off* I'm pretty sure I can knock it free.
Can anyone confirm the direction of the threads on this? And to make sure it's perfectly clear, if I'm facing the engine as in looking front to rear of the vehicle, am I spinning the fan/clutch to the left (pass side, CCW) or to the right (driver side, CW) to loosen it?
Thanks.
#1574
06-11-2013, 11:48 AM
#1576
06-11-2013, 02:42 PM
6th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Dallas, TX
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Indeed it is just that easy, can't count how many times I've done this on other cars as well as provided similar guidance to others on it. That's why I was so stumped. As I said, in this case I did not have the correct open end wrench and was forced to use an adjustable wrench which promptly loosened everytime I struck it with the hammer.
I replaced the fan clutch motor in my D1 this weekend and now it seems like I don't have as much power when accelerating. Could this be from the new fan clutch? I didn't change anything else under the hood.
#1577
06-11-2013, 02:46 PM
What is a fan clutch motor?
Cheers.
#1579
06-12-2013, 06:54 AM
Mudding
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Massachusetts
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Headliner
Took off the headliner cleaned everything off including the orange nonsense left behind after all these years. Instead of replacing the headliner I just rattle canned it with grey primer and flat black paint. Looks really nice for my standards. Cleaned up the rust on the left alpine window, found almost all the leaks including the disconnected drain tubes for the sunroofs. Changed out the tcase fluid with 85/140 and cleaned and changed all the breather inlets and tubes.
#1580
06-12-2013, 10:07 AM
Already had geometry problems on instillation. The front propshaft knuckels knocked and needed to grind away quite a lot. This means it is weakened more.
But us boys with this toys just saw another solution: Terrafirma's double knuckle drive shaft seems to be the answer and I am eagerly awaiting the Quote.