I am engineer with a strong structural background....this set up looks pretty good. Typically the problem with any upgrade like this is proper reinforcement. In the racing world I see a lot of well designed pieces but very little thought into how they'll actually transmit loading in the vehicle compared to stock. But then most people do not have inherent knowledge or intuitive understanding of load paths, stress/structural analysis, etc. This is when I laugh at the companies who claim to "engineer" their products. ; )

Cheers.

 

I'm sure it will work out fine. My buddies Jake and Ian are both running a similar set up. There should be no ill effect on the axle at high speeds. I'm just replacing the stud style mount with a bushing joint style. Why wouldn't the A-arm ball joint be OK?
The frame mount will be plenty strong. All the plate you see is .25" thick.
Here you can compare my mounts to the one QT sells with their arms.
Rose Jointed Heavy Duty Trailing Arms - R1053 - Trailing Arms - Suspension - Range Rover Classic - Qt Services

The stock arms suck, period. The RoverTracks ones are better but the frame bushing is still the weak spot. On a truck with 3" lift plus AND long travel shocks the frame bushings will fail quickly.

 

Cleaned all the grounds I could locate, still have a pulsing light syndrome, My next guess is the serpentine belt, then the alternator. Got the new radio installed, removed the aftermarket wiring and pioneer 600W amp from under the Pass seat. Radio works just fine!! no problems with the fuel pump so far...

 

Today I changed out my the gear oil in my t-case. I was down to a quart and a half that I turned into the local auto zone. I refilled with most of the 3 quarts of Valvoline 85-140 that I purchased. I used a fluid transfer hand pump from auto zone but the bottom hose kept coming out. Lost oil that way but not too much. Pulled out the hose to the t-case and oil was running out. So I think I did it right. Reaffixed the fill plug and then moved onto greasing my prop shafts with my lithium grease gun. Made an effort at tightening my v/c's. I really need a deep socket for the job. All I could find at sears was the short 3/8 inch drive 12 pt. lowes didn't have it. Have to check online. Topped off my tire pressure and most importantly got my truck inspected at the dmv and got my creds.

 

If you get the gallon jugs of t-case oil from AZ cut the top off an old oil quart container to help keep the pump in place.. Those hand pump's are designed to fit 2 different bottles but they didn't really account for it, as the smaller threaded area is what keeps the pump in the cap

 

I ordered all my crap for my swivel job from Rovah Farm.

 

Changed out the radiator with one from the j/y. A gamble to do but it worked out well and only 1/10 the cost of a new radiator and installation . Replaced and bleed the coolant. Still have to replace all the hoses. Intercooler lines have been sweating/leaking. I'm thinking about replacing those oil/trans cooler lines with AN fittings and braided steel hoses. More to do. More to come.

 

After bugging way too many people searching for door panels in top condition I decided to refurbish them. I used 5 coats of flat black plasti dip which worked well but left a very tacky finish that would be a lint magnet.I put a top coat of dupli color vinyl spray and it gave it the perfect finish. Only time will tell how well it holds up. On to the pics.........

 

That looks really good!!

 

That looks really slick, Scope. Funny, I was thinking about doing the same thing yesterday. The top part of my driver side door panel has been cracked and chipped away. Since I plastidipped the spare tire (and it's held up really well), I was trying to think of other uses like the one you did. It looks super custom. Nice job.