atf 2/3

 

Flew back to CA, and spent some time with the '94. It's having a major overheating issue now, to the point where the needle creeps up almost to the "H". When my daughter pulled in the driveway, we noticed there was water dripping underneath. We popped the hood, and it was leaking from the coolant reservoir cap. We let it cool down, loosened the cap, then topped it off. Took it for a test drive, and that's when I noticed the temps were creeping up into the danger zone. Got it back home, let it cool down, removed the cap, removed the bigger hose from the bottom of the reservoir to drain all the coolant out of the reservoir, put the hose back on, refilled the reservoir, squeezed the bottom radiator hose to try and "burp" any air up into the reservoir, then topped off accordingly. I started up the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes, no leaks, but the needle creeped up again.

The PO said he replaced the radiator, water pump, t-stat, and serpentine belt. He gave me the old radiator, and the water pump housing definitely looks new, so I believe him. I'll check the routing of the s-belt, to make sure it's turning the water pump in the right direction. I'll also do the function check of the electric fans by turning the key, turning on the AC, and seeing if those fans come on. I'll also try and do the "paper sucked against the grill" test as well, to make sure the fans are turning in the right direction (pulling air INTO the engine compartment). If all that checks out, doing something with the t-stat will be next on the list. I guess a quick and easy test would be to remove it and run without one. With all the stories I've read on here with t-stat failures, and with the truck being in So Cal, it might be worth it to keep it out, if that solves the overheating issue.

We'll see...

 

Happened last year to me, almost identical issues.

Viscous Fan Clutch was the culprit for me. Easy way to check, is with the engine off, no keys in ignition, pop the hood and try spinning the fan blades with your fingers (AGAIN MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS OFF). If the blades spin easily from your fingers spinning it then it's time to replace your fan clutch. A good fan clutch should barely spin, or spin very little and give you resistence like peanut butter.

There is a compatible heavy duty GM Chevy replacement part at NAPA part # TEM 271312

Or this compatible part at Autozone part # 922300

Or this OEM replacement from British Pacific Part # ERR3443

The procedure is an easy DIY project.

 

Checked the fan as described. It moves, but is giving some resistance, like it's moving thru heavy oil or p'nut butter, like you said. Also checked the routing of the s-belt, and it's routed correctly. No coolant puddles under the truck, so it's not leaking. Had to add a little coolant yesterday after the first test run, because it leaked from the reservoir cap, but the reservoir itself isn't leaking.

I'm thinking my next step is to remove the t-stat, and see how it runs without it. Around here, the "normal" temps are between 50-90 degrees, so it's not like I need the t-stat for heat inside the truck. Willing to do without some heat in order to run cooler consistently, but don't want to fix a symptom without fixing the actual problem, nowhatI'msayin?!

 

Drove the Disco up north to pick up a trailer to move some furniture only to realize that while the disco came with a hitch it apparently didn't have trailer lights wired in. I found the plug for the adapter to hook up the trailer lights and it looks like AB stocks this wiring harness for $100 but of course I'm in the middle of nowhere and need to dive it home today.

Can anyone point me to a normal auto parts place that might stock an adapter I can get without having to cut the harness today?

 

You could grab the 4 flat plug and wiring and some vampire clips and tap in that way. Then do it the right way when you get home.

 

Try it a few more times. Mine was finicky, and eventually after a few manual spins where it felt normal I noticed it then slipped and spun easily.

Just a thought, and good luck

 

i have the S10 /GM standard duty clutch. it works, but i dont think it locks up heavy enough. the HD GM clutch was locked up too easily. i might try a LR one next summer.

 

So this isn't one of those vehicles that requires the special digital converter thing to make the 4 wire plugs work?

 

It has separate turn signals and brake/running lights. So it will need a box of some sort to combine the signals.