I live in the rust belt, a brand new car will have rust on it after one winter here, seriously, buy it in Dec., by April its rusted.
There are pick up trucks 5-6 years old with the wheel wells rusted out on them, the farther north you go the worse it is.
By using a small ball peen hammer you can figure out how structurally sound something is by tapping on it.
Listen to the sound it makes, nice and solid sound, good to go, hollow sound...rust bad.
Surface rust makes zero effect on the integrity of something.

 

I'm not concerned with that little bit of surface rust. The shackles are what concern me. You say they have a 10,000lb WLL which is sufficient. But personally I wouldn't want to fiddle-f*ck arouns with that hair cotter pin, and then unscrew that nut. Then slip the strap over the shackle, then screw the nut on and insert the hair cotter pin. Then reverse the whole process and hope you don't lose the nut or pin in the snow. They may be strong but I wouldn't want to *** around with it.

 

Bah, of course I over thought it.

 

I get what you are saying now, I mis understood you before.

I'm not worried about it as I wont be getting stuck anytime soon.

 

I'd be more worried about tab strength, how thick is the steel and how well is it welded on? Looks like the D-ring could shear that tab. Watch out for the pin on the shackle bending because of how its mounted. Maybe flip it around when you use it... You'll never get it out if it bends.

It depends how hard you are going to use it. You know how stupid duty I have to have things. Stuff like that I dont mess around with it could be seriously dangerous and fatal if it lets go.

 

What storm? I just bought more beer.....

 

Well this past weekend i made the mount for my CB radio finally and also installed my ladder that i powder coated. Then will a little time left before the rain i installed new rear brake pads.

 

Get one of the front wheels off the ground (with appropriately rated axle/jack stands) and rotate it (the wheel) by hand; much easier than pushing the truck back and forth to get the prop shaft to turn.

 

Six of one, half dozen of the other type thing I suppose. I like to keep the wheels on the ground. With a wheel in the air the shaft is going to want to spin when you try to loosen/tighten the nuts. You will either need to put the wheels back on the ground or grab the shaft with a pipe wrench to keep it from spinning. For me its easier to put the gear selector in Neutral, push the truck 6-12" forward or back and throw a block of wood on either side of the wheel.
Just a matter of preference really.

 

Agreed. Either way will work fine.

I found it easier to do it with a wheel in the air since I had to get the shaft in a specific position to get enough clearance for my wrenches on the nuts. It just gave me more precision to rotate by hand.

Perhaps I need some better wrenches?