You say that like its a bad thing. 0.o
And other than that is just plain testosterone on wheels.

 

While the intergrity of the wire bundle in front of the battery is important, the horn on driver side I believe is in a bundle with lights.

 

Ya. My truck loves to give me new problems. Anyway. I disconnected the horns. They had water in them and were ruined. After I did that the AC magically worked fine. The muffler was patched and it'll hold up for a little while longer. But I now have another fun problem. My coolant reservoir is overflowing but my engine isn't that hot. It happened after I had the AC blasting for about 3 miles of traffic. I'm in Columbia S.C. and it was about 110 today so it was still pretty hot. The reservoir looks like it is in pretty bad shape. So hopefully replacing it will help. Thanks again for all your help. Wouldn't still be running without this forum!

 

Let me explain. Your coolant is doing that because it is hot. The gauge is a junk device. Plug in a scanner to your OBDII port, and you'll see the real coolant temp.

Change stat to 180F. Wash out spaces in front of radiator (pull out rubber strips). Flush radiator, find an indy shop that can rod it out ($75). Be sure both electric fans are blowing when AC is switched on.

And that is 110 heat index. Not the same as 110.

Here's a pix of gauge vs scanner. Can't trust it above 9:00.

Also, when engine is warmed up, and off, spin fan and release. If it coasts more than 1 revolution before stop, you need a new fan clutch, won't have good cooling when slow.

 

And surely I have angered the Rover Gods, as my alternator has died! They must be appeased with libations of Guinness and solemn chants of Monty Python songs!

"I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok..."

 

Thanks Savannah Buzz. I will go by the AC and Radiator guy I use on occasion. The fan is still pretty stiff so I don't think I need a new fan clutch. I also cleaned out around the radiator pretty well. What do I need to buy to plug in to the OBDII? And I'm not really sure what you mean by "change stat to 180F". But thanks for all your help so far. I really do appreciate it.

 

Thermostat - change to a 180F one, with jiggle device or 1/8 inch hole in flange, index that at 12:00 position. Goes here, spring end inside block. About $10 plus a gasket and some coolant.

As for what to plug in the OBDII, the best value seems to be the Ultra Gauge at about $69. Reads/resets codes, shows live data like coolant temp, battery volts, etc.