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Sound System Replacement

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  #1  
Old 07-09-2018, 07:30 AM
Johnny K's Avatar
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Default Sound System Replacement

For a while now, i've been contemplating an overhaul of the sound system in my 95 D1. I'd already replaced the radio but had a blown right front speaker and the two subs in the read door and the amp were inop. I was using the stock front amp with the aftermarket head, so i had the whine i'd read so much about on this forum. All in all, it worked, but def needed an upgrade.

Then Recently, i took my LR on a long drive and discovered that the evaporator coil drain tubes were clogged, Not understanding the repercussions of taking immediate action, i let it go for more than 1000 miles which ended up soaking the sound mats all the way back to the rear seat, i think i has storing 3 gallons of water under the floorboards. So, when i arrived back in Kansas, i decided to pull the mats to dry them out. I also found some rust beginning, so i cut the sound mat out, leaving the trans tunnel in place and went to town cleaning up the rust.



While under the carpets, i found the wire loom running to the amp and out to the speakers and - this is what is called "mission creep" - and thought, " hmmm. i should do the sound system while i have access to the wire loom,"

The radio i purchased is a Boss 611UAB. No CD player, bluetooth with RCA preamp front and rear.

For the front amp, i used the
 BOSS Audio AR1600.4 Armor 1600 Watt, 4 Channel Amp BOSS Audio AR1600.4 Armor 1600 Watt, 4 Channel Amp
The rear amp
BOSS Audio AR1500M Armor 1500 Watt, 2/4 Ohm Stable Class A/B, Monoblock BOSS Audio AR1500M Armor 1500 Watt, 2/4 Ohm Stable Class A/B, Monoblock
The rear speaker replacement
Goldwood Sound Dual Voice Coil 6.5" (GW-406D) Goldwood Sound Dual Voice Coil 6.5" (GW-406D)
The Goldwood speakers fit perfectly into the factory 6.5" mount, but i did have to cut about 1/2" off of the speaker mount hole in the rear door to allow for the larger magnets.
I pulled out the blown front speaker and moved one of the rear 4" to the front, then installed new 4" speakers in the rear pillars.
JBL GTO429 Premium 4-Inch Co-Axial Speaker JBL GTO429 Premium 4-Inch Co-Axial Speaker
These will NOT fit in the front speaker holes! Eventually, i will replace the front speakers to better match the wattage of the system, but everything sounds fantastic! I can drive down the road with windows down and still hear crystal clear music, It's not a super thumper, but that wasnt my goal. this system sounds great and i couldnt be happier with the outcome,










 
  #2  
Old 07-09-2018, 10:03 AM
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Great work
 
  #3  
Old 07-10-2018, 08:55 PM
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What did you do for getting wires from the head to the amp and then amp to all speakers? Did you use existing wiring in the factory loom or did you run all new? What about the rear door since the amp is mounted back there from the factory?

Good job!
 
  #4  
Old 07-12-2018, 05:40 PM
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Llamasayswhat,

i used RCA cable from the head to the amps. amp under the passenger seat feeds the front four speakers; amp under the drivers seat goes to the two 6.5" subs.

From the amps to the speakers, i used all existing wires. To make it neat and tidy, i carefully pulled the sub wires out of the harness, rerouted and lengthened them to get them across the trans tunnel and under the drivers seat. I used 14 gauge wire for the power and ran it directly from the battery, through the firewall on the drivers side, and down the trans tunnel on the left and right to each amp. Eventually, i will install a marine fuse block under the hood to fuse.

this little device will be your very best friend to pull wires into, down and around the dash area without disassembling it. i cannot express just how valuable this little tool was to me to get power and RCA cables through the dash to the console area.
I cant say how long i spent on the install, since i was doing more than just that but it wasn't terribly bad. make sure any amp you buy will fit under the seat or you'll be selling it on craigslist.... guess how i know this..... also, i had to install extensions on the seat base to fit both of these amps. easy enough- cut some aluminium plate to fit and used rivets (i'm a former Series III owner) to secure the mounting pates to the seat base. you can see them well in the 2nd, 4th, and 9th photos.

when you position the amp (front to back), make sure that there is clearance to get your screwdriver into the amp terminal blocks. I have very little space to make it work. mount the amp too far forward and you wont be able to get a screw driver in to tighten the terminals due to clearance of the seat base; too far back and the wires will be sticking into the rear carpet and quite possibly wont fit or will cause the terminals to eventually break off. I hope this is making sense.....i feel im not describing it well- see photo 5 and observe the angle of the terminal screws and the location of the top of the seat base. it's a pretty tight fit. of course, this may only apply to these to amps, but there aren't a ton of them out there that will fit under the seats.

hope this helps a little.

johnny
 

Last edited by Johnny K; 07-19-2018 at 07:10 AM.
  #5  
Old 07-22-2018, 01:29 PM
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Sorry to butt in, but how did you know your speaker was blown? my front left gets slightly distorted when pushing out any bass. does this mean its blown?
 
  #6  
Old 07-22-2018, 01:58 PM
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even at low to mid volumes it had a rattly/buzzy sound.

this link gives a great explanation of what it means to "blow" speakers.https://knowledge.sonicelectronix.co...lown-speakers/
 
  #7  
Old 08-06-2018, 12:23 AM
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Thanks for the description and images, well done.
 
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