stalled, no fuel, no spark, no spider????
Truck is a 96 4.0 the door says it was built 07/95. Didn't pass emmisions. Odb2 said o2 and catalyst not ready. The emmision guy asked if I had recently erased codes or disconnected the battery. Nope. He said drive it 60 miles or so then come back. One of the o2 connectors was loose, I think that is the emissions problem.
the cel light hasn't worked since owning the truck, i check codes occasionally but haven't had any recently.
drove it for a few days multiple short trips about 80 miles.
Left work to go back for testing. Truck stalled would crank but not start. The second closest to the engine yellow relay, in the drop down box in the pass footwell is clicking. Swapped it with another, that relay started clicking.
checked fuses, all good.
Inertia swich not tripped
tested for fuel none, but pump runs if given 12 volts. No spark either.
I assumed the emissions is unrelated. I then figured spider , but there is none!! There are mounting holes, but no spider, i took out glove box thinking it wasn't put back after someone messed with it, looked everywhere.
also thinking crank sensor but I am spiderless and baffled. Have not put a code reader on it yet, gonna do that tomorrow.
the cel light hasn't worked since owning the truck, i check codes occasionally but haven't had any recently.
drove it for a few days multiple short trips about 80 miles.
Left work to go back for testing. Truck stalled would crank but not start. The second closest to the engine yellow relay, in the drop down box in the pass footwell is clicking. Swapped it with another, that relay started clicking.
checked fuses, all good.
Inertia swich not tripped
tested for fuel none, but pump runs if given 12 volts. No spark either.
I assumed the emissions is unrelated. I then figured spider , but there is none!! There are mounting holes, but no spider, i took out glove box thinking it wasn't put back after someone messed with it, looked everywhere.
also thinking crank sensor but I am spiderless and baffled. Have not put a code reader on it yet, gonna do that tomorrow.
Check kthe multi-function relay under the hood.. You can remove the cover and test the fuel pump and circuit by manually closing the appropriate relay... Or you can jumper the purple/white white/purple wires in the socket and that will run the fuel pump...
Keep looking for that spider... It's in the center of the dash below the radio somewhere...I just ordered one of those amr4956 jumpers..
I'm going in for mine as soon as I get it..
John
John
Keep looking for that spider... It's in the center of the dash below the radio somewhere...I just ordered one of those amr4956 jumpers..
I'm going in for mine as soon as I get it..
John
John
crank position sensor was slightly bent, pulled the inspection cover and a chewed up piece of plastic or hard rubber fell out. Not sure what that is.
I think the immobilizer spider is a myth! like muffler bearings.
I think the immobilizer spider is a myth! like muffler bearings.
Glad you figured it out..
I'm just sitting here trying to think of how the crank position sensor can tell the fuel pump not to run when the engine isn't even turning yet ?
If you turn the key to position #2, The fuel pump should run to pressurize the fuel system.. The immobilizer is in the middle of the fuel pump relay coil circuit...
I'm not saying that you've found the wrong culprit.. But I wouldn't be surprised if it just coincidentally decided to start working again...
I'll let you know when I find the spider...
John
I'm just sitting here trying to think of how the crank position sensor can tell the fuel pump not to run when the engine isn't even turning yet ?
If you turn the key to position #2, The fuel pump should run to pressurize the fuel system.. The immobilizer is in the middle of the fuel pump relay coil circuit...
I'm not saying that you've found the wrong culprit.. But I wouldn't be surprised if it just coincidentally decided to start working again...
I'll let you know when I find the spider...
John
Glad you figured it out..
I'm just sitting here trying to think of how the crank position sensor can tell the fuel pump not to run when the engine isn't even turning yet ?
If you turn the key to position #2, The fuel pump should run to pressurize the fuel system.. The immobilizer is in the middle of the fuel pump relay coil circuit...
I'm not saying that you've found the wrong culprit.. But I wouldn't be surprised if it just coincidentally decided to start working again...
I'll let you know when I find the spider...
John
I'm just sitting here trying to think of how the crank position sensor can tell the fuel pump not to run when the engine isn't even turning yet ?
If you turn the key to position #2, The fuel pump should run to pressurize the fuel system.. The immobilizer is in the middle of the fuel pump relay coil circuit...
I'm not saying that you've found the wrong culprit.. But I wouldn't be surprised if it just coincidentally decided to start working again...
I'll let you know when I find the spider...
John
The ECU can't care what position the crankshaft is in when the engine is at rest.... The CPS only comes in to play when the engine is turning..
It could certainly keep the engine from starting.. But it can't keep the fuel pump from running...The immobilizer and the ECU and maybe the oil pressure switch are the only things that can control the fuel pump...
Read the initial post thoroughly....I have also been guilty of not reading posts thoroughly and missing the fine points...
He said the fuel pump doesn't run and there's no pressure. And no spark.... Gotta be the alarm/imobilizer...
If you really can't find the spider.. Look for the connector.. Maybe someone has already jumpered it and something in those connections has failed..
My jumper AMR4956 Should be here tomorrow.. It's funny how I get parts from England faster than I get them from inside the U.S.
John
It could certainly keep the engine from starting.. But it can't keep the fuel pump from running...The immobilizer and the ECU and maybe the oil pressure switch are the only things that can control the fuel pump...
Read the initial post thoroughly....I have also been guilty of not reading posts thoroughly and missing the fine points...

He said the fuel pump doesn't run and there's no pressure. And no spark.... Gotta be the alarm/imobilizer...
If you really can't find the spider.. Look for the connector.. Maybe someone has already jumpered it and something in those connections has failed..
My jumper AMR4956 Should be here tomorrow.. It's funny how I get parts from England faster than I get them from inside the U.S.
John
Last edited by JPSpen; Oct 18, 2012 at 10:23 AM.
The crank sensor should be here this afternoon
Where does the harness connecting to the spider come from? The green alarm box I assume? Is it wired directly or is there a connector at that end also?
Where does the harness connecting to the spider come from? The green alarm box I assume? Is it wired directly or is there a connector at that end also?
It looks like all the wires going to the connector are black.. The spider is just a black box...
Should be in the center of the dash on top of the heater/ac evaporator.
Look for all black wires on a connector...
John
Should be in the center of the dash on top of the heater/ac evaporator.
Look for all black wires on a connector...
John
replaced crank sensor, no luck. At least it needed replacing. still no spider. smacked the alarm ecu, more of the relays next to it clicked, marker lights flashed, smacked it some more, everything was quiet. Still no start, but driver door wouldn't arm alarm just lock and unlock. smacked it till relay started clicking, door armed alarm. Armed and disarmed a few times still no start.
thinking of taking it to an independant rover shop, flying to england and punching mr Lucas in the ding ding.
thinking of taking it to an independant rover shop, flying to england and punching mr Lucas in the ding ding.
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