Starter Replacement
5th Gear
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
when you say it would not start, it would not do anything, no engine turnover, as if the starter wasn't even there? That is a problem I am having, when it gets hot after driving a while, stop to get gas, run into shop for a few minutes, come back out, the Rover will not do anything when I turn the key. I have to wait 15 minutes or so for it to cool down then it cranks right up.
Thanks David
John
Thanks David
John
1st Gear
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
For a 97 Discovery manual transmision. This thread is very useful, it takes a 8mm hex to remove the bolts. The lower bolt has easy access from below near the front drive shaft. The upper bolt can be removed from above with effort and a with a 2" extension fitted with a flex head ratchet. Keep the heat shield, it is held on by one 10mm bolt on the engine mount. I asked my mechanic about dumping the heat shield he said, "Don't be and idiot, the exhaust heat will fry the O2 sensor in a week and destroy the starter"
It took me about two hours to replace, I got lucky replacing the heat shield bolt. I positioned it from above and the bolt went right in. One person job, two would be helpful for putting in the heat shield
I purchased the starter locally for $120. I had to call around to get a bosch. It had all the same markings as the old Lucus
It took me about two hours to replace, I got lucky replacing the heat shield bolt. I positioned it from above and the bolt went right in. One person job, two would be helpful for putting in the heat shield
I purchased the starter locally for $120. I had to call around to get a bosch. It had all the same markings as the old Lucus
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Likes: 11
From: St. Augustine, FL.
well,I cannot agree or disagree about it destroying the starter, but fry the O2 sensor, does he realize that that O2 sensor is actually bolted into the exhaust? With the heat shield over the O2 sensor , it would even get hotter. A thought.
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 191
Likes: 64
From: Tacoma Wa
Then you need to get into the head of those two socket cap screws with a pick and remove ALL the debris if you want any chance of not stripping out the heads. Place the hex/allen bit into the screws and tap it home gently with a hammer. Use whatever combination of extensions needed to get as straight a shot at the screw as possible.
Toss those socket cap screws in the garbage too. Replace them with regular old 3/8 hex cap screws(normal bolts). Use a 3" or 4" bolt and use large nuts as spacers between the bolt head and the starter. The idea here is to move the end of the bolt into a position that's easily accessible so that all you need in the future is a single combination wrench to pull the starter(no sockets or hodge podge of extensions.
Toss those socket cap screws in the garbage too. Replace them with regular old 3/8 hex cap screws(normal bolts). Use a 3" or 4" bolt and use large nuts as spacers between the bolt head and the starter. The idea here is to move the end of the bolt into a position that's easily accessible so that all you need in the future is a single combination wrench to pull the starter(no sockets or hodge podge of extensions.
I just did this starter replacement on my 96 disco and the hardest damn thing was getting the 10mm bolt back into the heat shield LOL
I found that lifting the body/frame away from the drive shaft opened up enough space to get the heat shield out and then easily back in again too. Obviously this is done by lifting on the vehicle in a way that allows the tires to stay on ground and simply extends the springs opening up that tight area a bit.
Unfortunately, after finishing, I now find the same dumb no-start "clunk" sound that made me get a new starter so my no-start issue is apparently not the starter (LOL again) but it was an oily afternoon where I learned some stuff again.
About accessing the 2 8mm hex bolts: Mine were tight enough to require a light impact instead of just leverage which IMO risks rounding out the bolt or shearing it, etc. I have a very compact 3/8 air gun and was able to do both from below with the upper one requiring the slightest MAC impact wobble (NOT a basic universal joint which can slip away way too easily). I also let Kroil sit on them for about an hour while fussing with the heat shield and setting up my driveway job area.
Now to test the starter relay to see if it was just that....
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 191
Likes: 64
From: Tacoma Wa
What? Fuel pump sensor can make this damn thing seem like the starter is toast? grrrrrrr. Wouldn't the starter be "trying" and winding along but with no fuel or not enough to start though? How does the fuel pump sensor cause it to not even try?
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