Just finished up doing the DIY thing to the ignition switch. The key broke off but we were lucky enough to find a local locksmith who was able to make a new key by using the pieces of the old one as a pattern. Anyway $7 later and a little fiddling it works. Someone had been in there before and totally screwed up the lock cylinder so even with the correct key it was iffy. We had to remove two of the "wafers" as the locksmith referred to them because they had missing springs, then had to grind a few others a tad as recommended in the DIY thread. Anyway its all back together but the steering lock refuses to work. I could care less if it ever works as its just annoying but I was wondering if it poses any potential hazard? I'd hate to have it lock up randomly. If it does pose a threat is there anyway to completely disable it. It worked fine before we had to go through and rig up everything so maybe there's something I'm missing as far as putting it back together. As far as I can tell it can only go one way.

Also I found a little red bulb just hanging under the trim panel when I pulled it apart, it seems to light up when the doors are open. Any idea where it belongs? The original owner must have been a total hack or just plain cheap so we're trying to work out the bugs before driving it daily. All this is on a 98 D1 by the way.

Lastly there is a mystery plug just chilling in the steering column. No clue where it goes but I'd like to find out just in case the PO unhooked more crap for some reason or another. There's 4 or 5 (I'll know for sure and post a pic when my phone recharges) wires, mostly purple in color coming out of the plug.

 

 

From the RAVE Electrical Troubleshooting Guide:

CIRCUIT OPERATION
Selector Interlock

When the gear selector is in the park position, the
solenoid inside the Transmission Range Selector
Switch (Z110) is de–energised and prevents the
selector from being moved into another gear. To free
the selector, the Ignition Switch (X134) must be in
position II and the brake pedal must be depressed.
When this occurs, voltage from Fuse F1 is applied to
the Transmission Range Selector through the closed
Stop Lamp Switch (X168). The solenoid inside the
Transmission Range Selector Switch is grounded at
E201 through the selector switch, the KS wire and
the B wire. The solenoid now energises, freeing the
selector.

Ignition Key Interlock

On vehicles equipped with the interlock safety
feature, the vehicle must be in park and the transfer
case in high or low gear before the key can be
removed from the ignition. If the gear selector or
transfer gear is out of gear, the key must be cycled
before removal.
If the vehicle is not in park, voltage from Fuse F12 is
applied to the Key Barrel Switch (X230) through the
closed contacts of the Transmission Range Selector
Switch (Z110). When the ignition switch is placed in
the 0 position, the Key Barrel Switch (X230) closes
to energise the solenoid and prevent key removal.
If the key is in the ignition and the transfer box is in
the neutral position, Interlock Relay 1 (K153) is
de–energised since the relay coil is not grounded by
the Transfer Box Position Switch (X175). When the
relay is de–energised, voltage is applied to the Key
Barrel Switch (X230) through the relay’s switch
contacts and the Key–In Switch (X229) causing the
solenoid to energise and prevent key removal.
If the Transfer Box is in the “H” or “L” position, the
Interlock Relay 1 (K153) is energised, since the relay
coil is grounded by the Transfer Box Position Switch
(X175). When the relay is energised, voltage to the
Key Barrel Switch (X230) is interrupted. If the vehicle
is in Park, the Transmission Range Selector Switch
(Z110) contacts are open. When the switch contacts
are open, voltage to the Key Barrel Switch (X230) is
also interrupted. The Ignition Key Lock Solenoid
(K191) is then disabled, allowing removal of the key.

Transfer Box Interlock

The Transfer Box Interlock safety feature is designed
to prevent the transfer case shifter from being shifted
out of “H” or “L” unless the vehicle’s gear selector is
in the neutral position.
When the gear selector is placed in the neutral
position, voltage is applied to the Interlock Relay 2’s
coil through the Transmission Range Selector Switch
(Z110). The relay’s coil is grounded through the
Park/Neutral Position Switch (X167).
Interlock Relay 2 now energises and applies voltage
from Fuse F13 to the Transfer Box Solenoid (K161).
When the Transfer Box Solenoid (K161) is

energised, the transfer box shifter can be operated.


This may provide some background. Also, if you look at the Electrical Manual, the diagrams have the color codes for wires on them, so you could find the wire colors that match your mystery plug.

There is a red light in the dash area that comes on with the alarm armed, tripped, etc. May come on when driver's door opened and engine immobilized from tampering.

 

There is a small red bulb that is normally mounted in the same area where the key goes in that basically illuminates the keyslot primarily to help you find the hole in the dark. It comes on when the door opens.

I have had some trouble with my key not working smoothly at various times, so my black plastic covers have been removed fully7 exposing that entire area. I also removed the little plastic ring that goes around the keyhole, that is where the red bulb plugs in.

I will look at see if I see the plug in question with the purple wires and let you know if I find out anything.

Applying graphite powdere to the key and sprinkling some on top of the key barrel and squirting a little into the hole has helped tremendously with my key working smoothly. Mine is a copy of the worn original that I got when I bought mine years ago, the original cracked and I bought a couple of blanks from Rovers North. The keys do seem to wear as well as the internals of the key barrel.

I would just as soon delete that damn key barrel lock, mine acted up recently but I am sure it was due to the transfer case selector shifter vibrating a little and not being fully engaged as Savannah's reference to the RAVE explained that the hi/low interlock relay 1 comes into play there.

The Ignition Key Lock Solenoid
(K191) is then disabled, allowing removal of the key.

Would it be as simple as unplugging a relay to disable the Key Lock?

I did find that lifting the negative battery terminal disables the interlock allowing key removal. After shifting from hi to low, driving a short distance, then shifting back to high and making sure the t/c was fully in high, the key interlock has not acted back up again.

I have toyed with the idea of completely bypassing the key and installing a few switches to manually start the engine without using the key, but have not proceeded beyond mentally toying with it due to things like the steering wheel lock and such.

Any ideas or been there done that stories anyone have?

I hate the constant possibility of the key screwing up and do not want the expense of replacing the key and ignition switch, even at the discpounted price that Paul Grant had for a new key. I would just as soon just use the key for the doors and totally get away from using it to start the vehicle.

 

Man that's a ton of info thanks guys. I may have typed it wrong above but my main concern is the steering wheel lock. It refuses to engage now as where it worked perfect before. Not sure if messing with the ignition switch had an effect on the steering wheel lock but simply won't work now. Doesn't bother me a bit if the wheel won't lock with the key out, just want to make sure its safe.

 

Wish I could help but I am clueless concerning the actual steering wheel lock.

Hopefully someone like Paul Grant or one of the more experienced guys can supply us with that info. Sure don't want that to engage while driving!