Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Switch Repair (Window / seat Switches)

Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:30 PM
  #1  
nuclearw's Avatar
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From: NE-Illinois
Default Switch Repair (Window / seat Switches)

Well here's my first real write-up for the forums hope it helps.

Both these switches had issues, the window would go down, but not up. And the seat switch would move the seat forward, but not backwards.

With my recent trip to the boneyard being unsuccessful, and $$$ a bit tight I decided to dig into these and see if I could repair them vs ordering replacements... Since they were not working there wasn't much to lose.






General information:

These switches are pretty simple in operation.

There are only really 2 options for a switch not working, plastic damage(uncommon) and corrosion/heat damage(more likely)

My issues were caused by corrosion on the tabs, and the pads they connect to.





For corrosion removal, you can use either a small screwdriver/really fine grit sandpaper (for the either) or rub on your jeans(tab ends) to clean them up and re-assemble. Some non-conductive grease could be used to help protect some of the ends.

Tabs:
Dirty & Cleaned:
Name:  IMG_0293_zps92cf3abc.jpg
Views: 1353
Size:  40.7 KB








Window Switch:

4 tabs to pop
Name:  IMG_0244_zpse7391b3d.jpg
Views: 1373
Size:  66.0 KB


Internal layout
notice the tabs are opposites

Bulb for the window switch illumination, this should be able to be replaced with an LED/Resistor combo if you chose to.

Name:  IMG_0246_zps3f48b5f1.jpg
Views: 1329
Size:  54.2 KB


Pic of the undersides of the tabs:
Name:  IMG_0249_zps7c8c4f5c.jpg
Views: 1375
Size:  29.6 KB




Seat Switch
These are simple but have a lot of components. 8 springs, 16 ball bearings 4 individual switches in mine (room for more for other configurations....)


blurry underside:
Name:  IMG_0270_zpsffccd391.jpg
Views: 1380
Size:  94.9 KB


pop tab locations:
Name:  IMG_0314_zps565d1a25.jpg
Views: 1307
Size:  169.0 KB



messy inside:
Name:  IMG_0273_zps19bb33a5.jpg
Views: 1388
Size:  55.7 KB


Inside: cleaned up
Name:  IMG_0294_zps903afc68.jpg
Views: 1309
Size:  73.9 KB



Mounting for the main slider (forward/back movement) located in the center.
The hook for the plastic should probably be spread apart some before re-assembly, I didn't do this and it seemed to remain loose afterwards.. hopefully it stays put lol
Name:  IMG_0300_zps4dec41c0.jpg
Views: 1283
Size:  24.9 KB




inside re-assembled (WRONG ORDER FOR THE SLIDERS!!!!) Be aware of this, the first time I re-assembled I had goofed the order of the plastic sliders. The proper order is:

2 like sliders go on either side of the main slider (mounted) are identical, make sure the side that has the extra plastic goes towards the outside (otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the switch.)
Also the slider with the offset end goes at the bottom of the switch, again you can use the cover to make sure the alignment is right.
Name:  IMG_0296_zps96781ff9.jpg
Views: 1322
Size:  77.3 KB





A few notes for the re-assembly...

there are 2 ball bearings and a spring for each tube in the sliders (4 bearings and 2 springs per slider).
These are kind of a pain to deal with but fortunately the springs are flat topped and hold the bearings in place for re-assembly.

Get everyting in place like the last picture (just make sure the sliders are right lol) and then go SLOW when re-assembling the unit....
My instinct was to try and snap it in place quickly, but this proved to move the top bearings away from where they belonged, when I slowed down and tried to sneak each tab down a bit till I could snap it in place it proved to be quite easy.

After re-assembling, shake it ... If the bearings came loose the switch will rattle.











Now I need to get this fixed...........

Name:  IMG_0324_zps3a4b8c62.jpg
Views: 1387
Size:  162.5 KB
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 02:53 PM
  #2  
bigbalu's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
Default

Very nice write up. Thanks.

What did you use to clean out the seat switch? That looks really nicely done. But fiddly to get in there.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #3  
nuclearw's Avatar
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Posts: 351
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From: NE-Illinois
Default

I used a small flat-head screwdriver to just scrape the filth off the inside pads. The one I had available looks like a jewlers one but is about 2-3x the size. I also used my knife for a few that had pittings in them
 
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #4  
WaltNYC's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: NYC
Default

Best piece of advice I ever read about doing this job (and I have done it a couple of times) is to perform the work whilst the parts are inside a cookie sheet. That way when one or more of those little ball bearings or springs wants to run away from you, they will not run too far.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 02:51 PM
  #5  
fishEH's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
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From: IL
Default

Originally Posted by WaltNYC
Best piece of advice I ever read about doing this job (and I have done it a couple of times) is to perform the work whilst the parts are inside a cookie sheet. That way when one or more of those little ball bearings or springs wants to run away from you, they will not run too far.
I learned that trick when disassembling and cleaning fishing reels. I lay down a while towel on my working surface. Parts stand out against the white and the towel means things don't bounce or go far when dropped.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 01:36 PM
  #6  
Paulodelson's Avatar
4wd Low
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by nuclearw
Well here's my first real write-up for the forums hope it helps.

Both these switches had issues, the window would go down, but not up. And the seat switch would move the seat forward, but not backwards.

With my recent trip to the boneyard being unsuccessful, and $$$ a bit tight I decided to dig into these and see if I could repair them vs ordering replacements... Since they were not working there wasn't much to lose.






General information:

These switches are pretty simple in operation.

There are only really 2 options for a switch not working, plastic damage(uncommon) and corrosion/heat damage(more likely)

My issues were caused by corrosion on the tabs, and the pads they connect to.





For corrosion removal, you can use either a small screwdriver/really fine grit sandpaper (for the either) or rub on your jeans(tab ends) to clean them up and re-assemble. Some non-conductive grease could be used to help protect some of the ends.

Tabs:
Dirty & Cleaned:
Attachment 39566








Window Switch:

4 tabs to pop
Attachment 39567


Internal layout
notice the tabs are opposites

Bulb for the window switch illumination, this should be able to be replaced with an LED/Resistor combo if you chose to.

Attachment 39568


Pic of the undersides of the tabs:
Attachment 39569




Seat Switch
These are simple but have a lot of components. 8 springs, 16 ball bearings 4 individual switches in mine (room for more for other configurations....)


blurry underside:
Attachment 39570


pop tab locations:
Attachment 39571



messy inside:
Attachment 39572


Inside: cleaned up
Attachment 39573



Mounting for the main slider (forward/back movement) located in the center.
The hook for the plastic should probably be spread apart some before re-assembly, I didn't do this and it seemed to remain loose afterwards.. hopefully it stays put lol
Attachment 39574




inside re-assembled (WRONG ORDER FOR THE SLIDERS!!!!) Be aware of this, the first time I re-assembled I had goofed the order of the plastic sliders. The proper order is:

2 like sliders go on either side of the main slider (mounted) are identical, make sure the side that has the extra plastic goes towards the outside (otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the switch.)
Also the slider with the offset end goes at the bottom of the switch, again you can use the cover to make sure the alignment is right.
Attachment 39575





A few notes for the re-assembly...

there are 2 ball bearings and a spring for each tube in the sliders (4 bearings and 2 springs per slider).
These are kind of a pain to deal with but fortunately the springs are flat topped and hold the bearings in place for re-assembly.

Get everyting in place like the last picture (just make sure the sliders are right lol) and then go SLOW when re-assembling the unit....
My instinct was to try and snap it in place quickly, but this proved to move the top bearings away from where they belonged, when I slowed down and tried to sneak each tab down a bit till I could snap it in place it proved to be quite easy.

After re-assembling, shake it ... If the bearings came loose the switch will rattle.











Now I need to get this fixed...........

Attachment 39576
How do you get that fixed?? Got the seats working but can't figure out how to get them back in?
 
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2018 | 08:32 AM
  #7  
logan_gibson's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 259
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Default

Originally Posted by Paulodelson
How do you get that fixed?? Got the seats working but can't figure out how to get them back in?
How to get the seat switches back in?
They have 4 tabs, two on top two on bottom. Usually the bottom ones are broken off so it doesn't snap in and stay put.

You can get a replacement cover with the 4 tabs off eBay usually.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 08:44 AM
  #8  
Paulodelson's Avatar
4wd Low
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by logan_gibson
How to get the seat switches back in?
They have 4 tabs, two on top two on bottom. Usually the bottom ones are broken off so it doesn't snap in and stay put.

You can get a replacement cover with the 4 tabs off eBay usually.
Thank you. I had a feeling something was broken/missing
 
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