Swivel ball help
So I was going to adjust the swivel pin preload and as I remove the abs sensor I realized the ball was suddenly pouring oil out. Is this a sign I need to rebuild them completely or did I just relieve some of the tension?
For reference it's a 98 50th editionedition with 160k miles, the ***** are the original chrome plate but look great, no scoring or anything.
For reference it's a 98 50th editionedition with 160k miles, the ***** are the original chrome plate but look great, no scoring or anything.
So I was going to adjust the swivel pin preload and as I remove the abs sensor I realized the ball was suddenly pouring oil out. Is this a sign I need to rebuild them completely or did I just relieve some of the tension?
For reference it's a 98 50th editionedition with 160k miles, the ***** are the original chrome plate but look great, no scoring or anything.
For reference it's a 98 50th editionedition with 160k miles, the ***** are the original chrome plate but look great, no scoring or anything.
The best lube is CV Housing Grease. It is a bit thinner than toothpaste. Older designs used gear oil.
Could be a sign the axle seal has allowed diff oil through to the CV. That could be caused by plugged axle breather tubes. This is not a huge problem unless oil is leaking onto the brakes. The oil is a good lubricant for the CVs.
Could also be a sign the large external seal on the swivel ball is worn out. Both my trucks needed work on the front hubs when I got them. Working on the swivel pin pre-load is a good opportunity to refresh some parts and seals that work very hard and are subject to wear.
Could be a sign the axle seal has allowed diff oil through to the CV. That could be caused by plugged axle breather tubes. This is not a huge problem unless oil is leaking onto the brakes. The oil is a good lubricant for the CVs.
Could also be a sign the large external seal on the swivel ball is worn out. Both my trucks needed work on the front hubs when I got them. Working on the swivel pin pre-load is a good opportunity to refresh some parts and seals that work very hard and are subject to wear.
If you removed the top two bolts to allow the abs sensor to be pulled the ball can move away from the sweeper seal allowing grease to escape.
If you were adjusting pre-load you need to take those two bolts out anyway to change the shims.
In short, don’t worry about it until you have it all buttoned up. Then check from leaks.
I now use “00” grease from Tractor Supply.
If you were adjusting pre-load you need to take those two bolts out anyway to change the shims.
In short, don’t worry about it until you have it all buttoned up. Then check from leaks.
I now use “00” grease from Tractor Supply.
If you removed the top two bolts to allow the abs sensor to be pulled the ball can move away from the sweeper seal allowing grease to escape.
If you were adjusting pre-load you need to take those two bolts out anyway to change the shims.
In short, don’t worry about it until you have it all buttoned up. Then check from leaks.
I now use “00” grease from Tractor Supply.
If you were adjusting pre-load you need to take those two bolts out anyway to change the shims.
In short, don’t worry about it until you have it all buttoned up. Then check from leaks.
I now use “00” grease from Tractor Supply.
Is there a easy way to check this other than delicately yanking it off and blowing thru it? Im getting leakage from my passenger side (US) swivel - (ball looks good and smooth).
If you attach a tube and blow into the breather, the axle should pressurize slightly, then the air flow back out gently when you release. Examine the plastic breather tube to check it hasn't melted onto something or kinked.
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