As I said in my other post I bought a well used D1 so I'm replacing the common failure parts...making a list..help me think of things I might run into that will need replacing..I'd like to order all this stuff together to save on shipping.

rear diff pinion seal
rear wheel seals left and right
U-joints for drive shafts
front axle shaft seals
front swivel ball seals
changing all fluids of course
set of wheel bearings for when I need them
what else ???

 

Before you go ahead and change all the rear axle seals replace the rear axle breather.
It rusts and then clogs and then the diff cant ex spell then pressure that builds up and blows out the seals.
Replace the clogged breather and the seals stop leaking.
This is very common on DI's and that is exactly what mine was doing when I bought it.
It has not leaked since, 40k+.

You joints you can get anywhere.

As for the wheel bearings, buy the kit, it comes with everything you need.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9002D.cfm
You will need 4 kits for all four wheels.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FTC2176.cfm

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-j9lziZ6o242

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9240.cfm

 

thanks for the tips spike..anyway to clean out the rear axle breather or does it have to be replaced?

 

You can remove it, and then remove the tubing and blow through it, if it is clogged go to Home Depot and buy ice maker water line, same stuff as the breather tubing.
Take the breather apart, then take a drill bit and with your hand ream it out, make sure all the holes are clear, then clean it with carb cleaner, let it dry and put it back.
You may also need to take some emery cloth to it to clean up the banjo bolt.
It is is to rusty it will need to be replaced.
I take mine apart every spring as part of my spring time maintenance and clean it up.
I will need to replace it next year though.
I used zip ties to re-string my breather tubing, leave them loose so it can move with the axle.

 

Spend the extra few $s and get the black line from the hardware store, if you want black line. Don't be cheap and get the clear line, thinking you can simply dye it black with some RIT fabric dye (because thats what you used to dye R/C car parts with, back in the day).

Sincerely,
the guy with the really pretty purple colored rear axle breather

 

That is the funniest thing I have heard all week.

 

Some good tips there Spike.

 

Skip the kit, not only are they overcharging for the bearings for your "discount" kit, it includes a crappy hub seal.
Get RTC3511 hub seals.
Get the paper flange gaskets if you want them.
Get a couple of the lock washers, they can be reused 3 or 4 times depending on how careful you are. Or 4 if you want.
The get the bearings locally for about $15 each (2 per hub).
Bearing is Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT3 or National A-37

Also skip the Duralast u-joints, they are made in China (even though they are using the Neapco part number). Occasionally people luck out and find PDQ/Neapco u-joints at Autozone, but you're safer getting them at Advance Auto, PDQ 1-0005 because they are always the real deal.

Check out Rovafarm (www.rovahfarm.com) for parts. Good prices, and they ship by USPS priority flat rate which saves money if you're getting anything small & heavy. I get the parts usually in 2 days.