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Transmission, Transfer case, Front and Rear DIFFS OIL?

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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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atancreti's Avatar
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Exclamation Transmission, Transfer case, Front and Rear DIFFS OIL?

Hi,
With a automatic 1995 DI 3.9
I am searching for the oil that offers the most protection.
I have read during a search 80w-140 is good in the transfer case. Thoughts?
What about Amsoil? Good or bad?
Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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A high quality synthetic (several brands) 85-140 is good for the transfer case, will quiet an older one down a little. You can get a handy pump that will screw into the one gallon lube jugs for about $9 at the autoparts store. While you are under there, your choice of oil in the diffs, examine vent plugs on top of axles to be sure they are not clogged up, which can make diff fluid be forced out through wheel seals. AT needs ATF fluid and filter change from time to time. Again, while under there attend to the swivels on the front wheels, some people use oil, some use straight Lucas Red & Tacky grease. And lube the drive shafts (both slip joints and universals).

Main thing on transfer case and diffs is open the fill plug FIRST. If you can't get it out, and have drained fluid, truck is stuck.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
A high quality synthetic (several brands) 85-140 is good for the transfer case, will quiet an older one down a little. You can get a handy pump that will screw into the one gallon lube jugs for about $9 at the autoparts store. While you are under there, your choice of oil in the diffs, examine vent plugs on top of axles to be sure they are not clogged up, which can make diff fluid be forced out through wheel seals. AT needs ATF fluid and filter change from time to time. Again, while under there attend to the swivels on the front wheels, some people use oil, some use straight Lucas Red & Tacky grease. And lube the drive shafts (both slip joints and universals).

Main thing on transfer case and diffs is open the fill plug FIRST. If you can't get it out, and have drained fluid, truck is stuck.
I greased my swivels, oil just leaked out. Now I just have the grease coming out, but a lot slower than oil! I don't want to rebuild my swivels (from what I have read its a pain in the a$$) I will definitely open the FILL plug first!
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 05:16 PM
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Here are the LR specs for all LR fluids.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...d-specs-42930/

Find the right type and get a good synthetic for everything but the engine. For the engine run a diesel oil like rotella 15w-40.

There are many brands and types to choose from.

As for the swivels, until you rebuild them, don't bother with an expensive lube, just get a good quality since you will be using alot of it.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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I answered on the other forum for you, but here it is again.
Screw full synthetic, just use any GL4 gear lube, 85w-140.
I go to Tractor Supply Company and buy 2 gal of it, total cost is under $40.
As for trans fluid Valvoline MaxLife is the best, also use it in the power steering.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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IMHO the original spec fluids are also for original condition, high miles wears things down and increased viscosity is good. Would not put synthetic in the engine, unless it was always run on it. Rotella has about 5 times the cleaning level of regular automotive oil.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
I answered on the other forum for you, but here it is again.
Screw full synthetic, just use any GL4 gear lube, 85w-140.
I go to Tractor Supply Company and buy 2 gal of it, total cost is under $40.
As for trans fluid Valvoline MaxLife is the best, also use it in the power steering.
I thought you were the other Spike555...
I will use GL4...
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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I'm the same person on both forums.
There is only one.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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atancreti's Avatar
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But a very different looking picture... Glad I am not the only one on these forums with the same username...
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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Spike may have a stunt double .....
 
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