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U-Joint replace vs. Drive Shaft Conversion?

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Old 05-13-2013, 10:40 AM
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Default U-Joint replace vs. Drive Shaft Conversion?

I'm interested in any views on replacing U-joints in the front driveshaft, versus the driveshaft conversion offered by BP/AB. The conversion kit replaces the rubber flex coupling (as well of course new u joints).

My Disco I has only 67k miles on it. Don't feel any drivetrain vibration and flex coupling looks fine to me. So just doing the u joints to avoid much bigger problems, as I'm pretty sure the PO did not grease these much if at all.

Didn't see much (any?) mention on the forum of people having trouble with the flex coupling, and my sense is that it doesn't fail catastrophically like the u joints.

Anyway, just looking for advice on whether it is worth spending the extra ~$180 on the full conversion, or just keep it simple.
 
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:46 AM
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The D2 has the terrible "transmission killa" front drive shaft. Sealed joints on one end. You can grease yours if fittings are there. I replaced mine at 175K ish. So much fun that if I have to do it again I'll just pay for it at a driveline shop. The rubber coupling splits with age, makes a vibration, you can see the splits.
 
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbalu
I'm interested in any views on replacing U-joints in the front driveshaft, versus the driveshaft conversion offered by BP/AB. The conversion kit replaces the rubber flex coupling (as well of course new u joints).

My Disco I has only 67k miles on it. Don't feel any drivetrain vibration and flex coupling looks fine to me. So just doing the u joints to avoid much bigger problems, as I'm pretty sure the PO did not grease these much if at all.

Didn't see much (any?) mention on the forum of people having trouble with the flex coupling, and my sense is that it doesn't fail catastrophically like the u joints.

Anyway, just looking for advice on whether it is worth spending the extra ~$180 on the full conversion, or just keep it simple.
The conversion is for the REAR driveshaft. If you're lifted you should do both, replace the ujoints in the front driveshaft AND do the conversion in the rear. If you're not lifted you should still replace the two front ujoints and the one ujoint in the rear.
 
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:26 PM
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fishEH, thanks for pointing out the conversion is for the rear!

No lift, and no plans for that. Will stick with the u joint replacement.
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:21 PM
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ok I looked under mine today and do not see that rubber coupler, is it under the parking brake drum? both my drive shafts have u joints both ends
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:57 PM
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98's didn't have the RotoFlex.
 
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbalu
fishEH, thanks for pointing out the conversion is for the rear!

No lift, and no plans for that. Will stick with the u joint replacement.
You wont make a mistake to convert from Rotoflex coupler to U-joint.
I have done this a long time ago after I have lost my rear propshaft on the road due to the Rotoflex disintegrating.
Just have it balanced by professionals and you will be rid of drive train vibrations for good.
 
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Old 06-26-2019, 04:51 PM
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Default Need help on rear rubber coupling Conversion kit!

Originally Posted by Hercu
You wont make a mistake to convert from Rotoflex coupler to U-joint.
I have done this a long time ago after I have lost my rear propshaft on the road due to the Rotoflex disintegrating.
Just have it balanced by professionals and you will be rid of drive train vibrations for good.
Hello !

Do you know where can I get the convertion kit for the rear? I want to get rid of the rubber coupling! It's getting bad every 10-15 doulsand miles ....
 
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:32 AM
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If you are going through Rotoflexes every 10-15k miles there is either something else wrong with your driveline or your truck is lifted.

Here is the conversion...
https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9300
 
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:30 PM
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If you are still looking for a rear driveshaft with u-joints at both ends and the proper four bolt flange with it's spacer, I have them, used.
Cheers,
Paul Grant

paulgrant@mac.com
 
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