If they are solid rotors then will be 2 piston, as far as i know and this is true for Aus/UK that only models with vented rotors came with 4 piston calipers ie defenders after about 95/96.

 

I've got 3 D1's. They all came stock with 4 pot/piston front calipers.
D110 calipers are 4 pot, 46mm(larger than D1). These take a solid rotor just like D1.
D90 calipers are exactly the same as 110, but have a spacer in between the two halves. This spacer is to allow for the thicker vented rotor.

 

redrover99
when you say you removed the ABS was it a pump, if so could be a matter that the booster alone can not do it?, just an idea.

 

The ABS modulator doesn't boost the pressure, it just controls it, reducing it as needed to prevent wheel lockup.
Pulling the ABS fuses has the same net effect as removing the modulator.

 

Pad material, rotor thickness, or anything else related to upgrading the brakes is not going to do anything to fix redrover99's brake issue... unless he has very heavy oversize wheels and tires.

The truck has a basic brake system failure. The least expensive way to fix the issue is to pay an independent shop's hour of diag time to id the problem. Period.
The only hard part is finding someone that actually has at least two good brain cells to diagnose the problem... and just so you know, if they have ASE patches all the way down one sleeve, they probably won't be of much help.

I stand by my earlier posts. Master cylinders can bypass fluid internally and still have a good pedal most of the time. Vacuum boosters can be intermittent and do some stupid stuff if you don't understand how they work... which most people don't.
Few, and I mean very few, things will put air in one caliper and most of them are temperature related.

Well... there's always the possibility redrover99 drives with both feet and never lets off the throttle... just presses the bigger pedal harder when he wants to slow down.

 

Wild guess as it has not been mentioned-Could it be the proportioning valve?

 

well the P V was the only piece that wasn't suggested already


I would have to say I have gotten bad rebuilt masters, on for my DII off ebay.

 

Already replaced that with a brand new one as the old one was leaking.

 

Haha only time I did that was when IACV didn't work and I had to keep her running at a stoplight. Roundabouts were even more fun

Yeah finding someone that will help me is really difficult, had the technician at the dealership say "that's just how they are" which seems to just be everyone's answer.

I think I will look at the booster or something in the vacuum system because apart from increased pedal travel I can get it to stop if I just push really hard. Brakes still squeal really bad as well and with engine off when I push the pedal the rear left caliper "clicks"

 

I don't know if this might be a clue to possible vacuum leak but I have gotten a code for Gross EVAP leak(P 1496) and my MPG is like 8.5 which seems really bad.

Also when it is hot and I turn it off for about 20 min it stumbles and sometimes stalls when I start it up.

May be completely unrelated but figured i'd give it a shot.

Thanks again for everyone's input this forum is awesome