On my 4th attempt* to buy a Disco, i will be checking a 97 LSE.

has over 160k miles. owner asks $3k. Car was always in nevada.

So, is there something obvious that I should look? I'm looking for help with arcane things that applies specifically to this model, such as the VIN number range for the disco II to know the kind of oil pump used. But feel free to contribute with basic mechanic knowledge for checking a used car if you feel like. i can always learn something new!

* the previous 3 were killed by you fine folks in this forum, and i'm thankful

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...scovery-21328/

 

Ooops. when i saw that on the search under the disco II forums i didn't even clicked. Thanks.

 

well, having been through this recently myself with a 97 (which is a disco I and the oil pump problem on the II's is not applicable to) here's a list i found useful when looking around:

Before starting the car, outside
□ Check rear for rust, especially bumper, door and chassis.
□ Rear wiper
□ Spare tire
□ Check fuel area for rust
□ Leaks around glasses
□ Rust on wheel walls
□ Oil leaks on wheels (inside and/or outside the wheels)
□ Check wheels for deformation, dings
□ Check tires, pressure, thread
□ Check plastic light covers for cracks
□ Check label for 50 state emission
□ Check for rust in hood or roof.
□ Check front under engine for rust
□ Check springs/shocks
□ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __

Before starting the car, inside
□ Check leather and general upholstery
□ Headliner
□ Leaks around sunroof(s)
□ Leaks around sky windows or any glasses
□ Security belts for wear
□ Carpet (stains, mold, …)
□ Check rear cargo area for rust or mold
□ Emergency brake operation
□ Miles: __________
□ Keys, total keys:_______
□ Keyless remote(s) working
□ Open/Check under the steering wheel.
□ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __

Before starting the car, engine
□ Find leaks on engine, Gear box and/or transfer
□ Check hoses for leaks or cracks
□ Check battery for leaks
□ Check exhaust system for rust or rattles
□ Check engine mounts, shock mounts
□ Check radiator(s) for leaks or holes
□ Check steering system visually
□ Check ignition system visually
□ Check oil level/color/texture
□ Check tranny oil color/texture
□ Check water level on expander
□ Check air filter
□ Check belt(s)
□ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __

Car running, inside
□ Tranny noises
□ CEL
□ ABS
□ Other warning lights?
□ Windows
□ Power Locks
□ Sunroofs
□ Wipers and washers (F/R)
□ Lights (on, off,…)
□ Turning signals, emergency
□ Radio
□ Smooth shifting
□ Acceleration
□ Emergency brake works
□ Courtesy lights
□ Engine revs up and down
□ Idle speed when warm:______RPM
□ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __

Car running, engine and outside
□ Find leaks on engine, Gear box and/or transfer while running
□ Check hoses
□ Open oil cap, smoke?
□ Blue smoke
□ White smoke
□ Expander bubbles
□ Rev up and check for smoke or leaks again
□ Check idle is correct cold/warm
□ Check tranny oil level in N
□ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __

Test Drive
□ Tranny OK, smooth shifting
□ Check H,L and lock operation on transfer
□ All speeds work as intended (R, D,…)
□ Steering correct
□ Vibration?
□ Noises?
□ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __


Also, if you can borrow an OBD2 code reader it is wise to take one of those with you. The disco I bought had popped a CEL recently on the PO. I scanned it and it was misfire codes which were fairly easy to remedy (new plugs, new wires, clean TB and MAF) But, that gave me more bargaining room. On a higher milage truck ask if the headgaskets have been replaced. My truck has 122k on it and the top end was rebuilt 10K miles ago. That was actually in my mind a bonus but something i played off as not to the seller. They make a tester which you can see if the coolant contains exhaust gases. If it does its a high chance that the headgasket is on its way out. Also, make sure you check the coolant and oil before starting the truck. Drive it around a bit and let it cool off. Then check again and make sure the coolant and oil are as they are supposed to be. If the truck shows any signs of a failing headgasket then leverage that in your favour. Its an approx $500 dollar job with parts and machine work.

Also, dont be afraid to walk. I set my price in my head when I met with the seller of my truck. I threw out a low ball offer, he countered higher, we met in the middle. Fortunately the middle number was my high number. If he wasn't willing to play ball i was willing to walk and find another truck. Cash in hand is a great motivator to someone that wants to be rid of an automobile.

 

Price seems high, unless something like rebuilt engine and/or tranny.

www.statewidelist.com will search all of craigslist for you, for one state, and output grouped by cuty. You spec "Rover" and price range, dealer or individual. Will give you a market range.

To the very thorough previous posts I would add:

examine dip stick - oil level good/bad; oil color (reads markings on stick thru oil or too dirty); discolored brown baked on oil on the stick anywhere - engine run too hot and oil changes infrequent?

Look inside the oil fill opening - are engine parts you see covered with a little oil, or is it baked on deep fried gunk?

Listen to engine cold and hot with either a stethoscope (cheap at auto parts store) or a broom handle (take your own) held to your ear. Listening for ticks, clunks, anything out of the ordinary and not uniform. Don't tell him what you hear, just look concerned and grumpy. Listen to alternator (bearings). When first cranked up cold, put hand near exhaust flanges to check for leaks.

Look down in coolant tank when at idle, bubbles (combustion gas in coolant, there is a chemical test from auto parts store you can take with you to verify this part of head gasket system); particles floating in coolant - hundreds of little "flakes" - copper, aluminum, black, brown - indicates use of stopz leekz .

Should be able to idle with AC on for 20 minutes without overheat (if you have a scanner plug it in and monitor coolant temp - gauge is not reliable).

Where is oil leaking underneath? Discount for each area.

Electric seats work in all positions?

Paint on roof in tip top shape? All parts of roof rack included, and jack, and jack handle?

With that kind of miles, you are at major repairs like head gasket, water pump is way overdue, etc.

Ask to see receipts for repairs and regular service. What kind of oil filter is on there (name brand or generic junk) - would prefer clean generic junk, he paid someone to change it; vs. a rusted on name brand last changed 3 years ago.

Budget $1000 out of pocket repairs up front minimum.