Long story short my fiance broke the key off in the ignition so we are in the process of the DIY fix in the tech section. Anyway there is a red and pink wire on the switch that has been cut. Any idea what it goes to and should I re connect it?

 

I would PM Disco Mike. Or take a pic and post of the entire field, that would be more helpful. I know there are many here that can trace our wires in their sleep.

 

In the RAVE, Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for 97, section c1, page 3, a pink & red wire (color code KR) is attached to the key barrel switch and drives the ignition key lock solenoid.

From the RAVE description of operation:

If the vehicle is not in park, voltage from Fuse F12 is
applied to the Key Barrel Switch (X230) through the
closed contacts of the Transmission Range Selector
Switch (Z110). When the ignition switch is placed in
the 0 position, the Key Barrel Switch (X230) closes

to energise the solenoid and prevent key removal.


Hope this helps. Her "payment" for this damage is to wash truck after next off roading frolic, and Simonize to taste.

 

Hmm interesting, would that have anything to do with the ignition/key acting goofy? It functions fine but its a pain in the rear to make the key turn sometimes. You have to fiddle with it for what seems like eternity to find the sweet spot and then you're good to go. Obviously it took its toll now that they key broke off, haha, but we're gonna have a new one made tomorrow and try and finesse the lock cylinder to continue working even if it means removing a sticky tumbler or two. The cylinder itself is pretty worn out but if I can ghetto rig it I sure would like to save the few hundred a new ignition switch and key cost.

Anyway what reason would one have to cut that wire? Think I should re connect it or just leave it alone? Day two of owning this thing and we sure are learning every little quirk fast, seems like every issue listed in the D1 tech section this thing has.

 

The only reason someone would go to that trouble would be to disable a problem nearby.

Check with some of our dismantlers, like Paul Grant below, for market price on prime pre-owned parts for posh sheet metal.

 

If there was a problem with the transmission interlock switch someone might cut the wire so they could remove the ignition key. With wire cut it means you can remove the key with the transmission not in 'P'.

 

If you need an ignition switch I happen to have a BRAND NEW one with keys in stock for $175 including shipping. I don't expect it to last since it's about a 1/3rd the price of one from the dealer so let me know if I can be of help.
Cheers,
Paul

 

Speaking of the key lock solenoid and what to do as far as being able to remove the key, I had an issue with mine acting up for a couple of days and learned that the solenoid will de-energize thereby releasing the key if you temporarily disconnect the negative battery terminal. Just in case your key does not want to release...........

 

EDIT Meant to add new thread