DiscoHereDiscoThere,

My home depot had them in stock, part #595111 I think. If you click on andrew's link it will show the part #. If your home depot doesn't carry them they have link on their website that will show stores close to you that have them in stock.

 

Yeah, I made sure. I've had an intermittent problem where the rear windows don't seem to work and then have spontaneously "fixed" themselves. It appears this issue is back as both of my rear windows currently don't want to work.

After I got everything back together, I tested my "repaired" window by using a 12v battery - worked great. At least now I don't need to use duct tape to keep the window up!

I'll diagnose the switch issue next, but at least the window goes up and down (when using the direct 12v source) so I vote thumbs up on the repair procedure in this thread. Thanks again to original poster!

 

My home depot said they no longer carry that part, and I didn't want to wait for delivery - so I went to lowes and found a combo setup similar to the op. that seemed to work fine - less than a buck for the washers and they seem to have done the trick.

 

Yep...any repair on a Disco that costs under one dollar is almost unheard of...

 

Thanks to the OP for the writeup, it was very informative and helped me a ton. Repair is working great a few days in, but I did have a few things that might help someone else in the future: (sorry I didn't shoot any photos)

1) Door panel removal - you can search for different instructions on how to take this off but if you're too lazy to search that out...2 screws in the pull handle and 1 screw behind the door latch. I would invest in a trim removal tool (like a forked screwdriver) that will probably save you some damage to the connectors for the panel.

2) Vapor barrier - directly behind the door panel is a vapor barrier, it's made out of plastic and is held in place with a tacky silicone or something like that. I removed it with a razor blade (had to cut around each of the door panel mounting points) so that it didn't rip on removal. You will need a pretty large area to lay it flat while you are working on the window.

3) Removing the 2 screws that hold the window to the arm off of the regulator - These screws are only visible when the window is part way down. I had taped my window in the "full up" position, and had to undo all the duct tape to get it where I could loosen those two bolts.

4) Testing the motor outside the car - any 12v power source (an old battery laying around) can be used to activate the motor once it's out of the car. (there are 2 metal leads in the cable coming off the motor, one way make the motor turn up switch positive and negative and it goes down) The gears of the arm had gone to far when the roller broke on mine, and the arm wasn't meshed with the motor any longer. I used a 12v source to remedy the problem while the window motor was out.

That's all I can remember for now - thanks again to everyone who contributed to this thread!

 

Can you re post the pics?

 

Pics disappeared, links no longer good?

 

Kamileon can you email me the pics and step you as you did above because they won't come threw on my pc on this site thanks man I been looking for this solution to my window problem instead of buying new regulaters

 

Gilileo19@gmail.com thanks bud!

 

This thread is almost two years old and the OP hasn't been on here since last May, so I don't think he's going to respond.
Does anyone else, perchance, have the pics saved or remember exactly what was done?