I have 2" of lift and want 3" of lift. I run 245 75 r16's on my 2" lift which...........is the same size tires that come STOCK on some other vehicles of the same size(X-terras, Grand Cherokees, Tacomas etc etc). I'm not saying my truck doesnt do well on 245's but I am definetely wanting and needing more clearance. Then again I guess it all comes down to exactly what kind of wheeling and how hard your wheeling your truck. I dont want a "Lifted" truck that sits just as high as a soccer moms X-terra or Cherokee. NOT that my 2" lifted Disco couldnt out wheel a x-terra or cherokee cuz it can but if I'm gonna "lift" my truck then its gonna look "lifted" Gosh dangit. Everyone who sees my truck has no idea its got a lift......I hate that, call me superficial or whatever. I guess its "how it goes" and not "how it shows" LOL.

 

Sounds sorta like Charley Sheen, "Winning" or is it "Whining".

I prefer performance and function over looks anyday.

 

What else really has to be done with a 3" lift?

 

Depends on the weight you are adding to the front. A large winch on there all the time should have the HD.

I got a great deal on a set of OME HD for my rear end from a friend who had them and had never installed them. They are pretty stiff on the road, but I have no problem with that. We also moved my original rear springs to the front and that has worked out fine as well. My friend Rob who has had several Rovers over the years told me that is a common thing that Rover Owners do. We did it on mine and like I said, it has done fine.

If you got the money, buy a good set like OME's. I got mine cheap and Rob helped me install them. It is hard to beat a good friend like that.

 

I will def have a front bumper and winch on but it may not be right away since they are expensive and I really want to be able to start hitting the trails.

 

Cranked radius arms, Ujoint conversion if you have Rotoflex, longer shocks, maybe a double cardan front driveshaft (some vibrate some dont kinda depends on the truck), sway bar drop brackets (if your running a sway bar), and extended brake lines. At least thats what mine took to drive good on the road. You can get away with springs, shocks, and brake hoses but you mite have some driveline vibrations and its gonna drive a little funny on road.

 

Maybe I will just stick with a 2" lift and 32's.

 

I'm gonna go 3" and see what happens. I cant see 2" being just fine on the u-joints and 1" extra causing that much more chaos on the joints. Longer shocks yes OR relocate your shock mounts and keep stock shocks. Longer brake lines or un-do the bracketry and get a few more inches of slack. Go 3" and just see what happens. Better yet go for 2" springs and 1" spacer, then if 3" is to much of a headache then just take out the spacers and ya still got 2" lift. BTW, just make the spacers yourself, its really really simple.

 

I just got started with a Discovery 1 but what I learned so far is that "lift" itself is not important. Also, big tires are not important. Articulation, traction, protection, recovery capability is what matters.

A 2" lift will almost never give you additional articulation over stock. Basically you are just adding spacers or stiffer springs but the shock length is probably the same. You raise your center of gravity, reduce suspension compliance, start to skew your caster off, and push the linkages closer to the binding point. And from what I can tell, most people do this just to fit bigger tires in so they are sure to rub the fenders if they articulate more than a few inches -- it doesn't matter because the springs are so stiff they'd have to fall off a two foot ledge to articulate anything -- ok, I'm exagerating now.

I believe if you want more articulation, you will need longer travel shocks and to mount those you will need longer springs, and once you put those on with the appropriate shock mounts and spring retainers, you will need to correct a few things. You will need offset radius arms on the front to push the front axle back into the center of the wheel wells and fix the pinion angle. With that done, you will need a new front driveshaft to reach the now farther-out front differential. In the rear you will want similarly offset trailing links and an a-arm extension. You will also need longer brake lines to handle the additional length and travel. That should do it. If you want to be particular you can get swivel ***** machined for the different angle.

The point of all this is additional articulation. If that is not the goal, I would keep the whole suspension stock. Don't add any spacers or springs that are too stiff (changes in vehicle weight notwithstanding) or body lift or any other stuff to fit bigger tires. Small tires are better and the stock suspension is correct.

If you are not going to do anything to add articulation, then keep everything stock until you add the weight of the bumper/winch and then change the springs if you have to. I have no idea how likely it is to be necessary. I would avoid unnesscessarily stiff springs for sure. I think this is a common mistake by people seeking big tire looks.

The winch bumper should add recovery capability via the winch, jack points, and recovery points. Besides this, also think about what you can do to improve traction (tire tread type, lockers, etc.), protection (skid plates, sliders etc.) What all of this makes sense depends on your driving.

 

Although you speak intelligently on the subject, I dont fully agree that lifting a truck provides no benefit if its not more than 2". You see you wont gain any articulation with just a 2" lift because your right, the shocks will still be the limiting factor as well as radius arms, trailing arms etc etc. However you cant tell me that a Disco with a 2" lift and some 32" tires wont do ANY better than a completely STOCK Disco with NO LIFT and 29" tires. There are obstacles on the trail that you need clearance for ie. rocks, logs, drop offs, ledges etc etc. A differential thats 2" higher from the ground IS going to benefit you off-road over a differential thats 2" lower. So no, maybe a 2" lift wont make you a flex monster BUT if that 2" lift allows the use of a 3" taller tire then essentialy you've gained 1.5" under your differentials.......that helps. Also how many times have you driven over an abstacle and the rock, log, ledge whatever ended up being like a micro MM from crunching your rocker panel??? Those bigger tires you were able to stuff in your fenders from the small lift you put on just saved your *** and your rockers from smashing that object. How about a water crossing? that extra 3" your sitting higher just made the difference between your feet and carpet getting wet and everything staying dry. So I agree that articulation is the best factor for off-road ability BUT having clearance under those diffs, under those rockers etc etc has its benefits as well. I went everywhere the big boys did a few weekends ago BUT I was also the only guy who got any body damage simply because I was the lowest guy. while others drove over that rock and had several inches underneath their rockers I had no choice(no way around this particular obstacle) and had to drive over and as soon as my drivers side tire came down the rock my rocker went "crunch" on the rock because I didnt have the clearance in an instance when it woulda helped. anyway, my worthless .02 cents.