Would like to turn discovery into an off road machine
From our discussion on full-sizes, I think we agree that lift inches and tire size is the straightfoward solution to a lot of offroad problems -- basically pick up your robe and run, right?
But if we're talking about the difference of 29's vs. 31's, we are not really opening a whole new world of offroading like going from 30's to 42's or something. We have to look at whether the small gain is really worth it. It is a gain for sure -- I cannot argue with that obvious point. But it does come with some drawbacks.
First, the spring kits a lot of shops are selling go for about $800 and a new set of 30 or 31's are going to cost another $1000 (depending). Granted the buyer may need tires anyway. The springs are also a lot stiffer and since the suspension doesn't gain any uptravel, the result is basically a topped out suspension with at least as much preload as stock.
So you are losing $800, any additional cost in tires, most of your suspension's uptravel, suspension compliance (you will be totally oversprung unless you're adding a bunch of weight), and although you gain a small amount of fender clearance at the top of the wheel well, larger tires come closer to the front and back of the wheel well. With 245's, you will likely have to do some trimming on the back of the rear wheel wells (unless you never articulate well enough to touch). Obviously fitting traction chains is hopeless. At best you can fit the sissy little cables which on mud tires is kind of pointless.
Instead, spend the money for springs on rock sliders and you will avoid the rocker panel damage.
Really, I think you can see my point isn't to win the argument, but to help the OP see the whole picture. They can decide for themself what they want.
I have a 1 5/8" spacer lift and 245 muds right now on mine from the PO. It articulates ok because it has stock spring rates but the tires do rub with full crossed axles. On the road the handling is poor because it is higher with still soft springs. I would say that spacers are the worst option. I'm getting rid of mine. I have the luxury of going to longer travel but if I did not I would be mindful of the problems introduced by pumping up the springs to get 2" lift. The result is probably better than with spacers but I would consider full stock suspension, stock tire size (but offroad tread), skid plates and sliders.
But if we're talking about the difference of 29's vs. 31's, we are not really opening a whole new world of offroading like going from 30's to 42's or something. We have to look at whether the small gain is really worth it. It is a gain for sure -- I cannot argue with that obvious point. But it does come with some drawbacks.
First, the spring kits a lot of shops are selling go for about $800 and a new set of 30 or 31's are going to cost another $1000 (depending). Granted the buyer may need tires anyway. The springs are also a lot stiffer and since the suspension doesn't gain any uptravel, the result is basically a topped out suspension with at least as much preload as stock.
So you are losing $800, any additional cost in tires, most of your suspension's uptravel, suspension compliance (you will be totally oversprung unless you're adding a bunch of weight), and although you gain a small amount of fender clearance at the top of the wheel well, larger tires come closer to the front and back of the wheel well. With 245's, you will likely have to do some trimming on the back of the rear wheel wells (unless you never articulate well enough to touch). Obviously fitting traction chains is hopeless. At best you can fit the sissy little cables which on mud tires is kind of pointless.
Instead, spend the money for springs on rock sliders and you will avoid the rocker panel damage.
Really, I think you can see my point isn't to win the argument, but to help the OP see the whole picture. They can decide for themself what they want.
I have a 1 5/8" spacer lift and 245 muds right now on mine from the PO. It articulates ok because it has stock spring rates but the tires do rub with full crossed axles. On the road the handling is poor because it is higher with still soft springs. I would say that spacers are the worst option. I'm getting rid of mine. I have the luxury of going to longer travel but if I did not I would be mindful of the problems introduced by pumping up the springs to get 2" lift. The result is probably better than with spacers but I would consider full stock suspension, stock tire size (but offroad tread), skid plates and sliders.
You'll likely get some rubbing with that setup.
I cured it by also installing a 2" body lift.
Right now I run 7.50Rx16's and they are narrower than any other 32" you're likely to find easily.
I cured it by also installing a 2" body lift.
Right now I run 7.50Rx16's and they are narrower than any other 32" you're likely to find easily.
From our discussion on full-sizes, I think we agree that lift inches and tire size is the straightfoward solution to a lot of offroad problems -- basically pick up your robe and run, right?
But if we're talking about the difference of 29's vs. 31's, we are not really opening a whole new world of offroading like going from 30's to 42's or something. We have to look at whether the small gain is really worth it. It is a gain for sure -- I cannot argue with that obvious point. But it does come with some drawbacks.
First, the spring kits a lot of shops are selling go for about $800 and a new set of 30 or 31's are going to cost another $1000 (depending). Granted the buyer may need tires anyway. The springs are also a lot stiffer and since the suspension doesn't gain any uptravel, the result is basically a topped out suspension with at least as much preload as stock.
So you are losing $800, any additional cost in tires, most of your suspension's uptravel, suspension compliance (you will be totally oversprung unless you're adding a bunch of weight), and although you gain a small amount of fender clearance at the top of the wheel well, larger tires come closer to the front and back of the wheel well. With 245's, you will likely have to do some trimming on the back of the rear wheel wells (unless you never articulate well enough to touch). Obviously fitting traction chains is hopeless. At best you can fit the sissy little cables which on mud tires is kind of pointless.
Instead, spend the money for springs on rock sliders and you will avoid the rocker panel damage.
Really, I think you can see my point isn't to win the argument, but to help the OP see the whole picture. They can decide for themself what they want.
I have a 1 5/8" spacer lift and 245 muds right now on mine from the PO. It articulates ok because it has stock spring rates but the tires do rub with full crossed axles. On the road the handling is poor because it is higher with still soft springs. I would say that spacers are the worst option. I'm getting rid of mine. I have the luxury of going to longer travel but if I did not I would be mindful of the problems introduced by pumping up the springs to get 2" lift. The result is probably better than with spacers but I would consider full stock suspension, stock tire size (but offroad tread), skid plates and sliders.
But if we're talking about the difference of 29's vs. 31's, we are not really opening a whole new world of offroading like going from 30's to 42's or something. We have to look at whether the small gain is really worth it. It is a gain for sure -- I cannot argue with that obvious point. But it does come with some drawbacks.
First, the spring kits a lot of shops are selling go for about $800 and a new set of 30 or 31's are going to cost another $1000 (depending). Granted the buyer may need tires anyway. The springs are also a lot stiffer and since the suspension doesn't gain any uptravel, the result is basically a topped out suspension with at least as much preload as stock.
So you are losing $800, any additional cost in tires, most of your suspension's uptravel, suspension compliance (you will be totally oversprung unless you're adding a bunch of weight), and although you gain a small amount of fender clearance at the top of the wheel well, larger tires come closer to the front and back of the wheel well. With 245's, you will likely have to do some trimming on the back of the rear wheel wells (unless you never articulate well enough to touch). Obviously fitting traction chains is hopeless. At best you can fit the sissy little cables which on mud tires is kind of pointless.
Instead, spend the money for springs on rock sliders and you will avoid the rocker panel damage.
Really, I think you can see my point isn't to win the argument, but to help the OP see the whole picture. They can decide for themself what they want.
I have a 1 5/8" spacer lift and 245 muds right now on mine from the PO. It articulates ok because it has stock spring rates but the tires do rub with full crossed axles. On the road the handling is poor because it is higher with still soft springs. I would say that spacers are the worst option. I'm getting rid of mine. I have the luxury of going to longer travel but if I did not I would be mindful of the problems introduced by pumping up the springs to get 2" lift. The result is probably better than with spacers but I would consider full stock suspension, stock tire size (but offroad tread), skid plates and sliders.
I get it BUT for some people taking a stock Disco and dropping 600.00 on some 2" springs and then 900.00 on some aggressive 31" tires makes them now capable of running a little more advanced trails then they could have run whilst their rovers were in stock form. To SOME people this is worth the money. I can vouche that my now lifted disco 2" and some 31" tires made a BIG difference in its off-road ability, also you will cut down on vehicle damage when you are better set up for off-road driving ie lift, taller tires, clearance etc. To me personally 2" IS NOT ENOUGH and thats why when I did lift disco I did the "cheap bastard" lift and some used FJ80 coils in the rear. I also searched craigslist and other places and found a smoking deal on my 31's. IF I had to spend 1600.00 on a 2" lift and 31's then I would have been dissapointed that all that money didnt get me better set up. I built my 1 ton blazer on 42's for 1500.00 bucks!!. Anyway, to some a 2" lift and 31's is all they will ever need to comfortably drive whatever trail they encounter. To me, 31's and 2" isnt enough for what I like to do, thats why I will slowly up-grade as I go. I also DID get improved articulation from my cheap 2" lift. I did remove the sway bars however, but I DID definetely get better improved articulation from just a 2" lift so how would you say that a 2" lift doesnt do anything for you?. I'd get even better articulation if I got longer shocks.
Last edited by AKdisco; May 25, 2011 at 07:20 PM.
Which 7.50-16's do you run? When I had my D1 I was looking for some, and the only two I could find were the "interco express" and the "courser traction lt" both of which were bias ply.
On the road the handling is poor because it is higher with still soft springs.
If you still have the original stock springs on a DI, it is probably "sagging" from age and worn out springs.
New good quality 2 inch plus springs with the proper 2 inch longer shocks will make an incredible difference.
Look at some of the UTube videos and you will be amazed at what a Discovery can and will do. Do not forget the boxed frame which greatly adds to the articulation ability of the Discovery.
If you are new to the Discovery, please do not come in like an expert advising everybody.
The first thing anyone needs to do is ensure everything on the vehicle is correctly functioning prior to going off road. If your first thought is to start messing with lifts and giant tires, you are taking the wrong path.
A totally strock Discovery in proper operating condition does quite well. An appropriately installed 2 inch lift with the correct shocks and a few other minor changes is even better. If you try to go much higher or much larger tires and other things of that nature, you may be in for a terribly rude result. If you want to build a big foot type vehicle, A Discovery is probably not the best vehicle choice.
If you still have the original stock springs on a DI, it is probably "sagging" from age and worn out springs.
New good quality 2 inch plus springs with the proper 2 inch longer shocks will make an incredible difference.
Look at some of the UTube videos and you will be amazed at what a Discovery can and will do. Do not forget the boxed frame which greatly adds to the articulation ability of the Discovery.
If you are new to the Discovery, please do not come in like an expert advising everybody.
The first thing anyone needs to do is ensure everything on the vehicle is correctly functioning prior to going off road. If your first thought is to start messing with lifts and giant tires, you are taking the wrong path.
A totally strock Discovery in proper operating condition does quite well. An appropriately installed 2 inch lift with the correct shocks and a few other minor changes is even better. If you try to go much higher or much larger tires and other things of that nature, you may be in for a terribly rude result. If you want to build a big foot type vehicle, A Discovery is probably not the best vehicle choice.
What I have aren't made anymore, Cooper Discoverer STT, or aren't readily available in the US, Goodyear G90.
On the road the handling is poor because it is higher with still soft springs.
If you still have the original stock springs on a DI, it is probably "sagging" from age and worn out springs.
New good quality 2 inch plus springs with the proper 2 inch longer shocks will make an incredible difference.
If you still have the original stock springs on a DI, it is probably "sagging" from age and worn out springs.
New good quality 2 inch plus springs with the proper 2 inch longer shocks will make an incredible difference.
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