The dealer has my disco in for the 60k/48mo service and is reporting oil leaks from the oil pan, t-case and right rear hub. All of whichare covered under warranty. However, the rear hub has contaminated the rear brake pads and the rotors have a "lip" on them so they want to replace the rotors and pads for $680...sounds a bit high to me?

I've changed alot of pads and rotors before, so I would have no problem doing it myself except that I have very little free time to do it. Most I've done were super easy and others(big trucks and 4x4's especially)were moretime consuming. About how long does it take to do the rear brakes on a Disco and how much for quality parts?

If it doesn't take too long and If I can save at least $200 over the dealers price then I'd do it myself.

 

With that low a mileage, you don't need rotors and a set of pads are a quick, easy job for around $100. let me know if you want a place to order pads from.

 

Mine kind of have a lip on them as well i have 43k miles thats a ridiculous price.

 

I recently did all four corners of my '03 Disco and I can tell you that it's so easy that a child could do it. I recommend getting the Rave CD for 10 bucks off eBay just to give you some diagrams to look at. I used Mike's recommendation of DBA rotors and EBC pads (although I used the Greenstuff pads which I don't think are that great).

I paid $480 I think for the four rotors, and then another $200 for the pads and $140 for the steal brake lines. I was never able to find a place on the internet that stocked the EBC Ultimax rear brakes for the Disco2, I'm not sure if they are even making them anymore?? At any rate, the dealer quoted me about $1400 to do it all and I did it for about $800 using far better hardware IMO.

It would have taken me only 3 or 4 hours to do it all except that I stripped two bolts in the slides on the caliper housing. No big deal, had to go back to the dealer and buy bolts and some new slides, but I saved a ton of money doing it myself.

 

That's what I was thinking, but there is a lip and supposedly the tech measured the rotors and they were out of limits. Also, when I mentioned aftermarket parts the Service Adviser was giving me this spiel about how that I should only use genuine LR parts since the wheel sensors are so sensitive and may not like the non LR parts, tripping the engine light. That was amusing to hear since I've read many times on here to get the ceramic pads because thegenuine LRpads gunk up the sensors with brake dust and trip the engine light.

However, I do I have a warranty to consider, and using non-LR parts here may not fair well for me in a future claim with say; a caliper failure or another hub seal leak. I'm thinking maybe I should borrow a micrometer and measure the rotors myself...if they're still within spec I'll just have them install stock pads. Just re-read my warranty and it requires all repairs be done by a licensed mechanic.

 

My wife's 2001 SE7 needs rotors and pads every 35K. I've concluded it's because sherides the brakes going down the steep hill we live on instead of using a lower gear.

Nonetheless, it's quite straight-forward to do the pads and rotors as other have said.

The reason the rotors have to be replaced is first they are not made to be turned and second the wear limit isn't far from the new thickness.
Front disc minimum thickness:

New 24.9 - 25.1 mm (0.980 – 0.988 in)

Service limit 22.0 mm (0.866 in)
Rear disc minimum thickness:

New 12.5 – 12.7 mm (0.492 – 0.500 in)

Service limit 11.7 mm (0.461 in)

 

I think 680 is a bit over the top. Merchants tire and auto wanted to do my rear brakes when I was getting my mud tires mounted. They quoted 530 or so, and its alot more work on a D1 beccuase the hubs has to be removed. Do it yourself! I think there is still a sale going on at AB...

Regards
Andy

 

That's what I'm at right now: 35k. Lots of hills and stop signs/lights here in San Fran, plus I commute to work on a very twisty mountain road. However, she spent her first 33k in Encino (a SoCal burb) with the original owner...not sure what the conditions are like down there.

Thanks for the specs, that's a great help!

 

When I bought my truck, I found a receipt in the glove box that was about 10 months old for about $670 from Midas. It was for the front pads and rotors on my D1. A few weeks later I was rubbing metal. Less than 10K on the ticker and the brakes were toast. I just threw some Autozone pads on till I could save for rotor kits, and they have lasted 2 years. They are really dirty, but they are still there.