02 D2 no brake, reverse lights
Looking for some info/help chasing brake and reverse light issues on an 02 D2.
Had to replace the header CO289 and before I got that in the Brake lights were on constantly and turn signals, obd port and random other things did not work.
Replaced header and everything is working except brake and reverse lights, fuses good, added new bulbs. The running lights( top 2) work.
Brake bulb is stamped P21W, Everything shows 7506/1156 as a replacement except Rovers North shows 1157 as a replacement and that's a dual filament, others show 7528. I have 7528 and they wont work, the ones I took out were 7528 and someone removed one tab and one fits.
I'm at a loss on this, I've spent a couple days chasing this. Is it bulbs or something else? I've added new grounds and the sockets seem to have power.
Any idea what I'm missing.
Thanks,
Eric
Had to replace the header CO289 and before I got that in the Brake lights were on constantly and turn signals, obd port and random other things did not work.
Replaced header and everything is working except brake and reverse lights, fuses good, added new bulbs. The running lights( top 2) work.
Brake bulb is stamped P21W, Everything shows 7506/1156 as a replacement except Rovers North shows 1157 as a replacement and that's a dual filament, others show 7528. I have 7528 and they wont work, the ones I took out were 7528 and someone removed one tab and one fits.
I'm at a loss on this, I've spent a couple days chasing this. Is it bulbs or something else? I've added new grounds and the sockets seem to have power.
Any idea what I'm missing.
Thanks,
Eric
As long as you have a dual filament in the dual filament sockets and a single filament in the single filament sockets, then the bulbs don't matter much as far as testing your issue. You want the correct bulbs when you finish but now, not so much.
Ensure that the bulbs you are testing with are actually good. Use a couple of pieces of wire and connect it to the battery to see it light up. Ensure that the sockets in question are not corroded. Insert and remove the bulb a few times to scrape corrosion away. Disconnect the connectors at the light assemblies and jumper battery to see that the bulbs will light. If so, then you have proven that the sockets and bulbs are good.
If you still haven't solved it, you need to test the wiring to find where you have and don't have power along the way to those sockets. A voltmeter is the best way to do this, though a test light is better than nothing. Starting at the socket with everything reconnected, test for voltage (with the switches/brakes/etc on, of course). Then move up the wiring harness toward the battery. Check each connection. Disconnect and reconnect everything you come across, testing for voltage at each point. When you reach the point where you finally have voltage, you have identified that you problem lies somewhere back toward the socket where you have already looked. Inspect the harness for damage/cuts. If you reach this point and don't find physical damage, report back. That is where the voltmeter's value comes in.
Ensure that the bulbs you are testing with are actually good. Use a couple of pieces of wire and connect it to the battery to see it light up. Ensure that the sockets in question are not corroded. Insert and remove the bulb a few times to scrape corrosion away. Disconnect the connectors at the light assemblies and jumper battery to see that the bulbs will light. If so, then you have proven that the sockets and bulbs are good.
If you still haven't solved it, you need to test the wiring to find where you have and don't have power along the way to those sockets. A voltmeter is the best way to do this, though a test light is better than nothing. Starting at the socket with everything reconnected, test for voltage (with the switches/brakes/etc on, of course). Then move up the wiring harness toward the battery. Check each connection. Disconnect and reconnect everything you come across, testing for voltage at each point. When you reach the point where you finally have voltage, you have identified that you problem lies somewhere back toward the socket where you have already looked. Inspect the harness for damage/cuts. If you reach this point and don't find physical damage, report back. That is where the voltmeter's value comes in.
Is the brake light the dual filament socket? I'm thinking... hoping that the wrong bulb is causing my problem
This is where I'm off. My 03 is different than this 02. Everything I look at has multiple bulbs listed RNE 626, PLE 626 264590, 1157 are all dual. 1156, 264591, 1156 and 7506 are single.
This is where I'm off. My 03 is different than this 02. Everything I look at has multiple bulbs listed RNE 626, PLE 626 264590, 1157 are all dual. 1156, 264591, 1156 and 7506 are single.
As long as you have a dual filament in the dual filament sockets and a single filament in the single filament sockets, then the bulbs don't matter much as far as testing your issue. You want the correct bulbs when you finish but now, not so much.
Ensure that the bulbs you are testing with are actually good. Use a couple of pieces of wire and connect it to the battery to see it light up. Ensure that the sockets in question are not corroded. Insert and remove the bulb a few times to scrape corrosion away. Disconnect the connectors at the light assemblies and jumper battery to see that the bulbs will light. If so, then you have proven that the sockets and bulbs are good.
If you still haven't solved it, you need to test the wiring to find where you have and don't have power along the way to those sockets. A voltmeter is the best way to do this, though a test light is better than nothing. Starting at the socket with everything reconnected, test for voltage (with the switches/brakes/etc on, of course). Then move up the wiring harness toward the battery. Check each connection. Disconnect and reconnect everything you come across, testing for voltage at each point. When you reach the point where you finally have voltage, you have identified that you problem lies somewhere back toward the socket where you have already looked. Inspect the harness for damage/cuts. If you reach this point and don't find physical damage, report back. That is where the voltmeter's value comes in.
Ensure that the bulbs you are testing with are actually good. Use a couple of pieces of wire and connect it to the battery to see it light up. Ensure that the sockets in question are not corroded. Insert and remove the bulb a few times to scrape corrosion away. Disconnect the connectors at the light assemblies and jumper battery to see that the bulbs will light. If so, then you have proven that the sockets and bulbs are good.
If you still haven't solved it, you need to test the wiring to find where you have and don't have power along the way to those sockets. A voltmeter is the best way to do this, though a test light is better than nothing. Starting at the socket with everything reconnected, test for voltage (with the switches/brakes/etc on, of course). Then move up the wiring harness toward the battery. Check each connection. Disconnect and reconnect everything you come across, testing for voltage at each point. When you reach the point where you finally have voltage, you have identified that you problem lies somewhere back toward the socket where you have already looked. Inspect the harness for damage/cuts. If you reach this point and don't find physical damage, report back. That is where the voltmeter's value comes in.
A dual filament bulb has the two nubs on the bottom. Those are the electrical contacts. The socket for such a bulb has two corresponding contacts in it. A single filament bulb has one nub and one corresponding contact in the socket. They won't typically work of you mix them. This is why I mentioned that. You can tell just by eyeballing each of them. As to if your brake bulb is dual filament, I don't know what's in pre-facelift trucks. But, yes, typically if there is a dual filament bulb, it is for brake/blinker and taillight combination.
I know the difference in the bulbs. Just trying by process of elimination to figure out what is supposed to be in the light. the previous owner had a dual filament in but shaved off one of the tabs.
Thanks
Thanks
That's why I suggested eyeballing the socket. It will tell you what type bulb belongs in there. One contact or two.
I've eliminated bad or wrong bulb issues. Appreciate the input. now I'm moving down the line to find a culprit. According to the wiring diagram the brake and reverse feeds run into a header then into the XYZ switch. So that's going to get pulled and cleaned up. I've had an 03 for 18 years and a 95 for 4. This 02 is my sons and they are just similar and just enough different to irritate me.
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