What did you torque the arp studs to?

 

i think the final torque is 70-75 lbs on the ARP studs

 

I've read the arp specified torque is 80, but that's apparenty too much for some blocks. Most people are using 60.

 

I never even reached 60 on most of the studs. I used what ARP recommended at 25, 50, 75, and the 2 that pulled out never made it past the second sequence.

As a side note Nigel at http://nigelscarplace.com/called me back today with a short block for $600 bucks shipped!!! It's a 4.6L and everything. I could barely find just a block for that price before! Oh HAPPY DAY!

 

You would have been better off with Norms inserts instead of the GM timesert, or bigsert. Been there and done that on the Cadillac motors. I'd use the Norm's inserts and fold the extra money in half, thereby doubling it and sticking it in my pocket. Do it right the first time! I just torqued the stretch bolts to 70 - 75 ft lbs and called it the day.

NS300L Home Page

MAK

 

Those look good.
So, I cut the threads with a tap.
Then, how to get those little bears down into the new thread?
So do I put those cores onto the new head bolts first?

Wonder how much making the head bolt hole larger decreases the strength of the block?

Well, if this has worked for you numerous times then it must be good.

 

Yes you cut the threads with a tap making sure you are 90 degrees to the deck. You want to insure your stud or bolt holes are straight. Norm has the guide as a extra cost. Make sure you measure the hole depth and set a collar on the bit so you go no further. Make sure you run the tap in straight as well. Once again, make sure the hole is 90 degrees to the block surface.

Put locktite on the insert threads as specified in the directions. Take the "T" and install the insert to the bottom of the new threaded hole. Let the locktite set up for an hour. You have now completed a properly repaired hole. Put the cylinder head back on and use whatever fastener you like. Personally, I'd just use stretch bolts and torque to 75 ft lbs in 20 lbs increments. Skip the 90 degree turn. You have tensioned the bolt to hold.

I use a mag drill with a deck plate for this operation for accuracy. Norm has the guide as seen in the link. I would think it to be good if used carefully. This was done on the caddy motors regularly. If one was stripped, I repaired the complete block this way.

Click on the link and read the web page.

MAK

 

10-4 on the NS300L kit. I am doing this same procedure to my LR3. Lost one thread when going the second 90. I heard that if you just repair the one, you have a great risk of loosing another one when you re tighten. Problem is from an engineering prospective, the aluminum will shear under the force placed upon it. So, in my research I looked at the Heli-Coils, Time-sert and this LS300L kit. The time-serts address issues from Heli-Coils (thread jumping and off center bores) but they are not perfect. 1. They are too short. 2. They use a fine thread contact point to the aluminum. When the bolt is tightened, the force is transferred to the aluminum and it will put out. The fact that the insert is shorter than the original thread insures more force is applied to the aluminum than originally. The NS300L kit addresses this issue buy 1. using longer inserts, over 40mm. 2. using a completely different thread much more course to engage the aluminum. This combo is the ticket and they are the first to really get it right. Also these guys only do cylinder head threads and their product is tuned to address aluminum blocks.

I think when I put the head back on after tapping them, I will follow RacerX's advice and torque them to 75 via 20 increments. I really like the idea of going to a click rather than a distance.

Also, Jhall it has been a few months. Do you mind giving us your feedback? I was thinking of pulling the block to do this. Did you do this while in the truck1? How are they holding today?

Sincerely,

Ovide
2006 LR3
2004 Disco II
1998 Disco II (totaled)
1989 BMW m3 EVO3
2006 Nissan Titan (Daily Driver)