Do you remeber how much you had to trim off? I almost wonder with the D2's taking a bigger fan, if it would bolt right up? Hmmm, will have to do some more experimenting

 

Can we clarify this:

Do I need a OEM or copy clutch for the D2 or can I use a chevy or other like we did on the D1?

I just had a colossal waterpump failure and I think I should replace the clutch as well. I'd rather use an Autozone type part.

I had a small "unidentifiable" water leak prior to this. I was trying to avoid the pressure test until I stopped any fixable leaks.

I believe the pressure test will cause further damage to a head or other gasket prompting an immediate major repair. Am I right about this?

 

if you keep the preasure low it should not change anything, keep the preasure as low as you can to find the leak 10-12 lbs. If you go up to the full 18 psi it may increase your chances.
But as soon as you fix whatever "little" leak you have the system is going to go back up the the 18 psi where it should be, so it's kind of a mute point.

 

1. Should be able to use Chevy clutch with the shrouded fan, but may have to drill out mounting holes on fan. Connection to WP will be the same. Could also use a different fan. I was in the junk yard this weekend and noted that the D2 fan blades and some Range Rover fan blades are larger (deeper) than the stock D1.

2. It is usually good practice to replace fan clutch and WP, they tend to race each other to the edge of the cliff.

3. Just running the engine can make like 15 PSI with cap closed. The increased PSI is one step against coolant boil over. The cylinders certainly make 10 times that and more. So running a coolant pressure test is just a way to have a small leak do so constantly without engine turning so you can find it easier. If gasket goes, it was hanging on by a thread anyway. Of course at that point SWMBO will take the D1 and you will be on the two wheeled rocket sitting in 5 mph stop and go traffic behind a bus.

4. So use low PSI, and be patient for it to leak.

 

thanks drowsy. i'm going to have the rad guy do the test and will tell him to stop at 10-12....if my new water pump/viscous repair doesn't stop the leak.

i have to add an inch of water every 2-3 days. i do have an oil seep at the headgaskets.

my temps are excellent and I no longer overheat. I watch them dangerously with the ultragauge. i also did the inline tstat mod. the fact that my temps are excellent makes me wonder about all the following:

the truck has overheated badly and I'm expecting to have to do a major repair at one point in the near future.

any idea on a viscous mod, ie. chevy fan.?

 

ok sava.

is the fan blade rotation and part the same as the D1....less easy mods like boring out holes? The metal fan I modded for the D1 turned out to be a reverse rotation fan and I had to remove it for the original. I guess that's garage decoration now along with my new D2 radiator.

 

just throw head gasket in it before it gets worse, it will cost a couple hundred bucks and take you a weekend. Or buy a spare set of heads for $50 have them milled ahead of time and your done in a day. I drive with a spare set of heads and gaskets in the back, dam i could change them out in a rest area in a few hours.

 

The WP is same on D1 and D2, so the rotation is the same.

 

come on....you're a superstar. you make the head job sound soooo easy. the plugs and wires are stressing me now. i've never done anything like that although I think I'd make a good assistant.

you're right tho, I should and I've been thinking of that.

not to change the topic as that's my concern today, but.....

is there much of a chance ill have to mill where the heads attach to the engine? and I thought the headgasket kits all cost more than $200?

kinda weird you have a spare set of heads in the back. are we that prone to colossal head failure at any time or are you doing that for severe offroad expedition reasons.

 

thanks. so garage art for my metal fan.

and I need to clarify on confirmed part number for viscous.