12V Constant in 2003 Driver’s Side Fuse Panel?
I ended up using the fuses as shown in this video - https://youtu.be/TBQUTaAq_y4?t=635
Apparently some aren't truly constant as they shutoff when the ignition is switched, but F2 (fuel door) is supposedly a true constant... I really don't know any better and haven't started the vehicle yet to see what's going to happen (need to put the new oil pump on before I can do that) - I'll just see what happens at that point, but that's what this video advises. I used 5A add-a-circuit fuse taps - I'm not sure if there's a maximum they can handle with regard to the original fused circuit, but I believe all of the fuses are on 10A or 15A circuits... I'll find out a lot of things when I start the vehicle and see what happens - if any fuses blow, etc.
Yellow (Constant) - F2 - Fuel Door
Red (Switched) - F15 - Cigar Lighter
Orange (Headlamp) - F33 - Parking Lights
Black - (Ground) - this doesn't need to be fused - it turns out that I discovered the same grounding method that that other link shows. You'll just need a bit more wire to reach it, so solder or buttsplice some more wire on with a ring terminal on the end of the wire and put a grounding screw in that empty* welded screw hole shown in the link you shared.
*mine was empty and it seems it's just that way if others are doing that as well without making it so their dash is missing screws.
Hope that helps - by the way, I'm not any kind of expert, just sharing what I did after having to learn a lot to do this, which I believe is done correctly... I wish I'd just seen that video and that link sooner because I think I wasted a lot of people's time. If I were smart, I would have installed a water temp gauge at the same time since the miserable 18-22 gauge wire on the Glowshift gauge made it tough to get a good connection (tug test) using red buttsplice connectors. I'll probably cut them all off and solder/heatshrink tube the connectors later after seeing that the circuits used are good. Another option is to install a water temp gauge at the same time so you've essentially got double the amount of wire going into the butt splice connector to give it a better connection when you crimp the buttsplice.
Oh yeah, I cut the blue buttsplice connectors off the add-a-circuit fuse taps (they all seem to come with 14 or 16 gauge wire and blue butt splice connectors) and used red butt splice connectors to be able to splice the 18-22 gauge wire from the Glowshift wire snake.
Apparently some aren't truly constant as they shutoff when the ignition is switched, but F2 (fuel door) is supposedly a true constant... I really don't know any better and haven't started the vehicle yet to see what's going to happen (need to put the new oil pump on before I can do that) - I'll just see what happens at that point, but that's what this video advises. I used 5A add-a-circuit fuse taps - I'm not sure if there's a maximum they can handle with regard to the original fused circuit, but I believe all of the fuses are on 10A or 15A circuits... I'll find out a lot of things when I start the vehicle and see what happens - if any fuses blow, etc.
Yellow (Constant) - F2 - Fuel Door
Red (Switched) - F15 - Cigar Lighter
Orange (Headlamp) - F33 - Parking Lights
Black - (Ground) - this doesn't need to be fused - it turns out that I discovered the same grounding method that that other link shows. You'll just need a bit more wire to reach it, so solder or buttsplice some more wire on with a ring terminal on the end of the wire and put a grounding screw in that empty* welded screw hole shown in the link you shared.
*mine was empty and it seems it's just that way if others are doing that as well without making it so their dash is missing screws.
Hope that helps - by the way, I'm not any kind of expert, just sharing what I did after having to learn a lot to do this, which I believe is done correctly... I wish I'd just seen that video and that link sooner because I think I wasted a lot of people's time. If I were smart, I would have installed a water temp gauge at the same time since the miserable 18-22 gauge wire on the Glowshift gauge made it tough to get a good connection (tug test) using red buttsplice connectors. I'll probably cut them all off and solder/heatshrink tube the connectors later after seeing that the circuits used are good. Another option is to install a water temp gauge at the same time so you've essentially got double the amount of wire going into the butt splice connector to give it a better connection when you crimp the buttsplice.
Oh yeah, I cut the blue buttsplice connectors off the add-a-circuit fuse taps (they all seem to come with 14 or 16 gauge wire and blue butt splice connectors) and used red butt splice connectors to be able to splice the 18-22 gauge wire from the Glowshift wire snake.
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 33
From: Los Padres National Forest
Yes, you can use the same fuse taps for both constant wires, both switched wires, both headlamp wires - just run the Glowshift gauge wires from each gauge into the same add a circuit buttsplice connector, which will give it a better hold anyway since the skinny Glowshift wires are tough to crimp down tightly even in a red buttsplice connector, but with wires from two gauges in there it'll be easier. They have combination gauges that have both functions in a single unit, as well. At this point, I'll probably just get an ultraguage or some other OBD-sourced gauge to monitor water temp and maybe battery voltage. I edited the post above a few times to add information, so there might be some additional stuff there that'll help.
Hey so maybe this is a dumb question as I am about to install this oil sensor adapter into my front cover. Is it required to drain the oil to install the adapter? Is there oil behind that plug in the 03-04s?
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 33
From: Los Padres National Forest
Yes, there is oil behind that plug as that cover contains the oil pump. You'll can try to open it and fit the adapter without draining, but it'll probably be a mess. Most of the oil will be in the oil pan after the engine hasn't run in a while, but there will still be oil behind the cover that will come out. I used silicone (as advised by a senior member here) and I'm not sure how that will bond if there's oil mixing with the silicone immediately, if you chose to install it will an extra sealant. It might be best to install your sensor when changing oil.
Silicone…. Interesting. Smart. Then it is worth it to drain the oil, remove the plug, and clean up the port before sealing it up. What type of silicone did you go with? I am fairly new to this and I am still scooping up all the required goo’s, liquids, and grease. Good times…
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 33
From: Los Padres National Forest
I used a black silicone and might’ve used the high oil resistance type but was told any of the black stuff would do. I think it’s best if you install the sensor during an oil change so you can control it better. It’s hard to reach that plug in the timing cover but it’s possible, just be careful since my front cover cracked (easily) when putting the sensor adapter in. I was told it must’ve been brittle with age - it’s cast aluminum. Either way, oil pressure issues are common and a lot of people replace the pump as well as the timing chain and install a sensor so they can monitor the pressure at all times, which seems necessary with these engines. I was told the timing chain doesn’t usually need replacement until around 200-250,000 miles but some people do preventative maintenance there if they find the chain is slack.
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