I'm not sure if it has been said it not but you MUST use premium fuel. Lower octane fuels will make an ugly mess of your engine internals. Even with premium fuel your fuel mileage will suck. I get low to mid-teens in the city, 18 is the best I've ever done on the highway with the cruise set. You're missing out on one of the Rovers best abilities by not taking it off road. You could find a much more fuel efficient vehicle for cruising around town. I won't presume to tell you what to do with your vehicle but I really think you're missing out on a huge part of the Land Rover ownership experience by keeping it on roads. Around where I live there are tons of Discoveries that never see more than a dirt road. Those drivers look down their nose at me for driving my lifted Rover with the bumper trimmed for better ground clearance. There are also some Rovers that obviously see off road and we wave and smile as we pass.

Take your belt off and check your tensioner and pulleys. I'm betting that at least one of them is bad. Tensioner and pulleys is a pretty easy fix.

 

stop drivng this truck right now!!!
You must have your front driveshaft checked out before you need a new transmission!!!

 

Okay I took some pictures, of the front of the driveshaft. It appears to be New-er but Im no mechanic so you guys tell me what you think. I tried to get a couple quick videos, one of the drive shaft for a couple seconds, and then one of the belt making the squeak squeak as it rotates, but the video doesnt really allot you to hear much of it.

Images are attached. The squeak very clearly comes from the pullys. I think were going to order the new belt, and then the new tensioner pullys also. If he has to take it apart might as well kill to birds with one stone. I also called the Vocational center in my area and am waiting for a response back. I let them no that I'm a kid from my community (Most kids attend Vocational there) and that I dont really have the money to pay a land rover dealer to do a complete flush of the fluids in the vehicle, however, I would be interested in having him use my car as a demonstration on how to do things. (If you let the voc teacher work on your car, its free, you only pay for parts.) Might not be perfect like a dealer could do, but when your younger, 100 dollars is 100 dollars.)

The stupid Cd changer is jammed and it trys to eject the magazine and you can hear it, but nothing spits out. I have no idea on how to get it out without removing the hole thing.

Links to Videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nLj4kyxGSc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDqfAkVfKe4

 

The part of the driveshaft that breaks is the part that connects to the transfer case.
That big ugly looking thing is called a double cardon joint, two u-joints in one housing.
It is heavy and when it lets loose it spanks the transmission and breaks the cast aluminum case just like tornados pics show.
You cannot tell how old something is just by looking at it.
When I was in High School we also did the VOC thing, did lots of work on my car for cheap.
Rebuilding the front driveshaft is priority number 1.
As for the rest piece of cake, if I can do it you guys can.
Since you are new to Rovers you know that you MUST use premium gas, right?

 

Could you send me a link to a store and list the exact parts I need? Im going to order that belt, and if you could what parts should I order for those pulleys or what ever it is? I got a guy who knows the basics of a land rover/and most cars. He said he can do the pulleys no problem. If im going to bring it out there I guess he can also change that bearing.

Yep I know about premium gas, I put shell V POWER in it. I got 17.3 MPG on the way home with it at 70 on the interstate, No cruise control as I couldnt figure all the dam buttons out. lol

 

For the cruise control turn on the master power, it is a button on the dash that looks like a skateboard, it is a bridge over a road, the universal symbol for roadway.
You can leave the master power button on all the time.
Turn it on and then press set to set, simple.
Tap the brake to turn the cruise off.
www.atlanticbritish.com has anything and everything you could ever want/need for your truck.
They also offer several shipping options, if you cant find the part on the site then call them.
www.roverlandparts.com has good used parts.
Also check out AtlanticBritish's Tech Tips page.
Also check out www.discoweb.org tech tips.
DiscoMike knows the part numbers for the u-joints and centering ball that are needed to rebuild the double cardon joint.
I need to add that you can get alot of parts locally, just shop around, it might be cheaper on line but with shipping it might be more.

 

Okay so I took the picture of the wrong joint? Here is a second set of the joint a little bit further back than the first one. The first set of pictures were closer to the wide opening part of the transmission, and this one is closer to the more rectangular boxy part. What are the ways to tell weather it has u joint upgrade or not? The squeak is definetly not comming from the joint. I started the car and it idold and slow squeak I shined flash light down there and the driveshaft wasn't spinning ect, so the noise cannot be comming from there. Like you said the part cannot be determined by what it looks like, but they do appear to have a black paint shine to them, not rusty ect like some of the pics I have seen.

If I do NOT have the new u-joints do I need to order this whole thing

Here http://store.toddcosuspensions.com/larodiiifrdr.html

Or just this part

Here, and have the mechanic rebuild and install with the new u joints? http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base

Sorry if I sound dumb, Im not real good with cars, I know the basics and try my best to learn, but its not something that comes easy to me lol.

 

I own a DI so I dont suffer from this problem..
DII owners please correct me if I am relaying bad info here..

What you are looking for on the ujoints are "GREASE ZERTS" they are the nipples you inject grease..

One of you pictures shows one on the part of the shaft that lubricates the telescoping bit... Circled in Red... What you want to see is more of these on the U-Joints..Circled in Blue and Double Cardon joints on both sides of the drive shaft..



This might actually be one.. cant tell because of the quality of the Pictures..



If you have them.. Grease them and you should be golden.. If not.. have them rebuilt for $200 bucks or so and save yourself a VERY EXPENSIVE REPAIR..

You can learn how to do all this stuff, and believe me you will save yourelf a ton of money over the duration of your life if you take the opprotunity to learn how to work on vehicles now.. and the Disco is a good vehicle to learn on.

If you have grease zerts then make sure you clean them well before greasing them, and on the one that is on the telescoping bit.. you only need to put 4-6 squirts in it.. you dont want to over fill it and push out the rubber seal.. the rest of them just pump away untill fresh grease starts coming out all over the joint..

 

Look for grease zerts on the Double Cardon.. the part you just posted pics of..

If you dont have them, you can just unbolt the driveshaft and take the whole thing to a Shop that does Driveshafts and have them to the work..

Four Bolts on the front where the driveshaft connects to the front Differential and 4 bolts in the back where it connects to the transfer case

 

Ok I thought you said that it squeaked when moving thus I jumped to the double cardon.
Like Pancho said, look for the grease zerks, there needs to be one on every u-joint.
Grease them at every oil change and they will last forever.
You have come to the right place if you want to learn about cars and how to work on them.
Here is a simple how stuff works on a Disco which is full time four wheel drive, NOT all wheel drive.
The engine turns the transmission turns the transfer case turns the front and rear drive shafts turns the front and rear differentials turns the axle shafts turns the wheels.
Thats it in a nut shell.

Your parking brake is that big drum on the back of the transfer case, most cars use the rear brakes as the parking brake, on a LR setting the parking brake will lock both front and rear driveshafts.