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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 02:13 PM
  #31  
Jawbox's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mag48
Can you post the EXACT kit I need to buy for the rebuild? I find something different everywhere I look. I will order the parts, and have it rebuilt right away, just send me a link of what I need to order and I got it. Also for the pulley squeak. I just need to order the TENSIONER PULLY, and not all of the others right?
In my opinion, get the whole tensioner. They run about $45 from Autozone, so there is no reason not to just replace it entirely. If you can spin the other pulleys and there is no grittiness or play, you are probably okay with just the tensioner.

Ooops, I see you already ordered it, hopefully that will fix your problem.
 

Last edited by Jawbox; Apr 16, 2009 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 02:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Disco2Fever
A grease zerk on EVERY u-joint??

Woah... I thought I was free and clear because the shafts on both our Discos have two zerks...

Yikes, I guess I've got something else to order!

Thanks everyone...

Pat
Every U-joint in the drive line needs to have a zerk fitting so it can be greased. I don't know about D2s but my D1 has zerks on the shaft itself to grease where the shaft slide to compensate for axle movement.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 03:28 PM
  #33  
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You can save yourself some time by getting a tom woods shaft for about $350. They were great people to work with. www.4xshaft.com/index.html
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 05:34 PM
  #34  
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I greased the front zerks, I have the 2 new U joints ordered and the bearing. I also greased the rear zerks. I got a REALLY good deal on some new Cooper Tires with 60,000 mile warranty. I am going to order new break pads, and have the rotors resurfaced when putting the new tires on.

Also, I have the serpentine belt ordered, a K & N air filter, the new pulley, They are going to drain all the transmission fluid and put new in, It seems to be dripping? I tightened all the bolts I could see underneith to see if that would stop the slow drip. The mechanic is going to do a general tune up,flush and fill, and Im going to have him put those u-joints in.

I HOPE THAT is all I will need to do for awhile. A long while. Im will be pretty low after that.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 05:50 PM
  #35  
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DO NOT use a K&N air filter. It will more than likely destroy you MAF sensor. Some people have had good luck with K&N air filters in D2s but most end up replacing the MAF and the air filter. Save your money and stick with paper filters. Make sure you use Magnecor 8mm wires when you do your tune-up. Other wires will be destroyed quickly by the heat from the aluminum engine.

I'm sure you're starting to figure out that this trucks can be finicky about some things. Air filters and plug wires are 2 of those things.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #36  
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I have learned more about cars in the last few days than I have probably in my whole life. I have also learned that they drain your wallet real quick to.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 08:00 PM
  #37  
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DO NOT USE THE K&N AIR FILTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IT WILL COST YOU MORE MONEY.
It will destroy your mass air flow sensor.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #38  
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This forum is a great place to supplement what you learn by getting your hands dirty and actually working on your truck. Pretty much everything I know about the D2 I have learned from this forum since I haven't had an opportunity to play with a D2. I've gotten quite familiar with the D1 from working on mine and reading about them. I've spent more time under my truck this week than I really cared to but it had to be fixed and I couldn't afford to have my mechanic do it.

The best way to learn anything about vehicles is to get your hands dirty and do everything you possibly can yourself. Some tasks are going to be too complex for a beginning mechanic but as you learn more you'll be able to handle more difficult tasks. I have been working on my own cars since I started driving back in high school and there are still some things I don't feel comfortable doing.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 08:35 PM
  #39  
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Yeah, tonight I got down and tightened up some of the bolts I saw where the slow drip seemed to accumulate. I also greased the U-Joints that it does have. It has the front one, and rear one, but none on the double-cardon. HOW DUMB. But I just had to change my order to two ujoints instead of 3. What brand of brake pads do your recommend buying? The rotors are going to have to be resurfaced on top of everything else.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 08:43 PM
  #40  
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I ordered the EBC pads from Atlantic British and love them. I'm not sure if D2 rotors can be resurfaced. The rotors are really thin from the factory and there's not much material to take off during resurfacing.

The double-cardon joint was a product of the BMW ownership. Kind of surprising that German engineers would allow such a bad idea slip in to production. It's no surprise that Ford allowed the mistake to continue when they bought Land Rover. The D1s have weaker driveshafts than D2s but at least all our u-joints are greaseable from the factory.
 
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