180F Thermostat Y/N
#11
Most of the aftermarket suppliers from England have several varieties of parts, ranging from good, better and Genuine. Their normal line is just the plain part number and the upgraded but not genuine version normally has a G at the end to signify the difference.
#12
FYI, that is not true. If you go to the dealer, you will not find a G at the end of any of their part #s.
Most of the aftermarket suppliers from England have several varieties of parts, ranging from good, better and Genuine. Their normal line is just the plain part number and the upgraded but not genuine version normally has a G at the end to signify the difference.
Most of the aftermarket suppliers from England have several varieties of parts, ranging from good, better and Genuine. Their normal line is just the plain part number and the upgraded but not genuine version normally has a G at the end to signify the difference.
#13
the only times I've heard people caution about t-stat's are the guys who have done the inline by-pass, but not about the 180 specifically. I'm in South Florida and run a 180. Hwy temps in the 180's, around town in the 190's, highest I've seen is 210 idling, after driving, on a 90+ degree day.
But any 180* thermo is certainly better the stock temp.
#14
I'm currently averaging 15.6 mpg running non-ethanol 93 octane and a 180 degree thermo. I drive some highway, some local. Last year I was getting similar mileage running 10% ethanol 93 and a 180* thermo. I switched to 87 over the winter and it dropped to ~13.5.
That's why I like the inline mod - I've never even broken 200 even when in traffic at 100* ambient temps.
But any 180* thermo is certainly better the stock temp.
That's why I like the inline mod - I've never even broken 200 even when in traffic at 100* ambient temps.
But any 180* thermo is certainly better the stock temp.
180* is definitely better for the engine's longevity. But it does effect the economy. Colder engine temps increase friction. 2 months ago I changed plugs and wires and my MPG's (I have to use Ron Burgundy's voice every time) were at 15.5 after a month of driving. I then installed the 180 thermo and a month of that I'm at 14.6 average. So it does have an effect. I use 93 octane and fill up at the same station. Stations where I live should be back to summer blend fuel so I may see an increase again, but I don't know.
#15
Hoses & 180F Thermostat have been ordered... thank you Lucky8. And thanks everyone for taking the time to reply; appreciate all the feedback.
To clarify, I ordered the PEL500110 Thermostat (Genuine 180F model that is GREY in color). Some suppliers put a "G" at the end of the part number, some do not. Same thing for the hoses. A quick phone call before ordering will clear things up and ensure you are ordering a Genuine part (if that is what you are looking for).
To clarify, I ordered the PEL500110 Thermostat (Genuine 180F model that is GREY in color). Some suppliers put a "G" at the end of the part number, some do not. Same thing for the hoses. A quick phone call before ordering will clear things up and ensure you are ordering a Genuine part (if that is what you are looking for).
Last edited by overover02; 05-09-2014 at 10:02 AM. Reason: added Thermostat model ordered.
#16
#17
#18
Yes it is worth the investment. I held it off for maybe a year? My average temps where between 197 and 215! Had the engine tick during idling etc. So you can imagine my excitement when I installed the 180 TDI thermostat and my average temps dropped to a new average of between 188-197 and I have NOT heard my engine tick since! I think the 180 cost around $70? Cant remember but if it helps lower your engine temps and potentially prolongs the life of a alreadly flawed engine then why the hell not get the stat? I ordered the Motorad thermostat half a year ago from DAP, and for less then the price of the 180 TDI, but after reading alot of reviews on this forum I decided NOT to use it. Still have it new in box. Ive never read anything bad about the 180 TDI stat so it just made sense to give it a try and I dont regret it.
No matter what you chose, just get that old thermostat replaced before things get worse with your truck. Good luck.
No matter what you chose, just get that old thermostat replaced before things get worse with your truck. Good luck.
#19
FYI, that is not true. If you go to the dealer, you will not find a G at the end of any of their part #s.
Most of the aftermarket suppliers from England have several varieties of parts, ranging from good, better and Genuine. Their normal line is just the plain part number and the upgraded but not genuine version normally has a G at the end to signify the difference.
Most of the aftermarket suppliers from England have several varieties of parts, ranging from good, better and Genuine. Their normal line is just the plain part number and the upgraded but not genuine version normally has a G at the end to signify the difference.
However, the OP referenced the BPUtah webpage in his first post. The BPUtah webpage makes a distinction between PEL500110G (OEM version) and PEL500110 (Motorad version). There has been previous posts about the Motorad version failing prematurely. I believe most folks buy their thermostats from third-party aftermarket sources. Hence, I'd thought it would be important to mention the difference between the two options on the BPUtah website:
Land Rover Discovery 180F Thermostat PEL500110
Atlantic British also places a "G" designation for a genuine part:
Thermostat Discovery II (Genuine Part # PEM100990 ) - Land Rover cooling/heating from Atlantic British
The "i" (info) hoover link on the AB web-page says:
"On genuine part numbers, we typically show a G suffix at the end".
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Reference posts on PEL500110 Motorad failures:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ll-fail-49787/
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...-change-58746/
Last edited by acg; 05-09-2014 at 03:38 AM.
#20
Nor am I... Colder engine temps result in a richer mixture=more fuel. Most, not all, auto manufacturers use the higher temp stat for emissions. Subaru for example uses a lower 180*(I think it's 180).
If you've ever watched your instant mpg's on a cold winter day when the engine takes longer to warm up, mpg's will be well below average til the engine reaches temp. More fuel used on warmup during cold days. So in theory (I hate that word), cooler engine temp could reduce the mpg's. My drop in mpg's may be totally coincidental, but I think it's the cooler running stat.