that would be the exact point to hold the heat in and send it out thru the exhaust, rather than having it radiating under the hood.
do a search on ceramic coated header and you will see the benefits.
you can do it for a fraction of the cost using supply that have been proven in the motorcycle industry for years.
I not out to " Convince anyone" the biggest killer of this engine is heat., cool equal longevity.

 

Drowssap, you FAILED! I was convinced. So I went to the foundry at my college to use the sand blaster and remove all the crud from the manifolds and the furnace to cure the ceramic paint. They were previously blasted with glass, but the ceramic paint doesn't stick well to that surface, so I wanted to rough them up. It's amazing how cast iron can look like aluminum after being blasted so clean. Check it out:



I don't have pictures of the cured product, but it looks amazing and I can't wait to mount them up. I also replaced the old studs before painting to give them some rust and heat resistance, too. We'll see how much comes off while bolting on the Y-pipes...

I used the VHT Flameproof stuff in matte black (not as flashy, but that's ok). It is supposed to resist up to 2000 F. The paint goes on pretty easy, and I sprayed some directly into the pipes of the manifolds to coat the inside as well as the outside. It worked better than I expected. I was guessing I'd have tons of running, but it distributed out pretty evenly. I used the whole can on the two manifolds. Part of me wanted to go thicker, but I think the layers I have will work fine. The ceramic coating is very hard after curing and cooling. I like it.

Thanks Drowssap!

 

any time

they look great by the way

 

Here's a "fun" development. I don't know why I didn't see it before, but it was staring me in the face. There was a giant gaping hole in the back of my transfer case. Here I am trying to make sure I get all the right seals when the rear input shaft bearings are chunks and dust. Combined with the grease and fluid in the t-case, it formed a great way to get metal slivers under my skin.




I've already ordered a used t-case from a wrecking yard in the Twin Cities area for $185 shipped. I'm going to reseal that thing and make it look as good as the rest of the truck will.

I picked up my new crank rod/piston combo yesterday. I had to have 4 of the rods straightened and re-honed, but they're all in perfect condition now. The block has been honed, with new freeze plugs, new cam bearings, freshly decked surfaces, and a completely solid sleeve-pinning job (2 pins per cylinder). All I'm waiting on for assembly are the oversized crank mains and rods bearings. I only had to go oversized to +.010.

But, on the upside, I was able to find time to finish putting in the rear suspension upgrade. I had to do it at night, though. And I don't have a garage. Luckily, I work for a company that makes portable lithium batteries with AC/DC output, so this is what my night ended with:


And Dusty1 hooked me up with a front driveshaft he wasn't using, so I'll rebuild that, and maybe machine a spacer for it to give the shaft a bit more grab onto the splines. I am now looking for a rear drive shaft from a D1 so I can be rid of the rotoflex. I have the rear diff conversion on the way from England. I just need the rear D1 shaft to match it. I'll also probably do a spacer back there, too.

I have access to so many fun electronics and manufacturing facilities right now, that it would make no sense to not incorporate this tech into the finished vehicle somehow. I was even trying to figure out how to make this truck a fully electric vehicle for a while, but that battery would be massive! I'll do it later to an old Mini Cooper. It'll be a fast little car, too. I know that I'll have one of the lithium packs in the back for emergencies, but I'll also have the main car battery as a lithium pack with a battery bay I make myself with some aluminum. To start it, I'll use some Ultra-capacitors in series:



Our trucks draw about 500 Cold Cranking Amps, and the stock batteries we use can provide about 750 CCA. A set of five of these ultra-caps delivers 1000A, not including the lithium pack I'm using in parallel with it. It should be able to provide right around 2000 CCA with the lithium pack and caps combined. That means I can jump start a Semi-truck! And this is what I normally use them on at work:


That's a test stand to test the true functionality of a battery and what it can handle in discharge. Right now it can handle a constant discharge of 60 kW @ 4000 Amps. Fun stuff. If anyone is interested in doing a ultra-cap setup, let me know and I'll put up a step-by-step on how I do mine.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice so far. I'll keep everyone updated with more photos over this weekend as I tackle the transmission tear-down and rebuild. Maybe I'll be able to get the headlight conversion taken care of, too!

 

so i guess white Shepard or blue devil would be of no use to you.

 

That T-Case is messed up! There is a bearing right where that hole is so I'm guessing that's what happens when a bearing fails.

Since you know that the Transmission or clutch were also replaced at some point and time I would start looking for a good used trans/T-Case combo.

 

Wow, that transfer case bearing failure is kind of horrifying.

I wonder how common that will be as these trucks age.

 

Ok, that is not just a media/security camera server. That is a full blown gaming rig lol....

 

Surprisingly, I dont do any gaming with it. Or at all. It would be good for it, but i prefer other social activities.

The graphics card is alnost useless to me. I thought it would take the transcoding load off the cpu, but Plex doesn't support CUDA...yet! I should just get rid of it to tell the truth. Get a workstation card later on, maybe.

 

I've got a new t-case on the way and I'm rebuilding the transmission myself this week while I wait for crank bearings from England.

But I agree, this sucker was limping on its last polio-ridden leg. Just about everything that moves is getting replaced, rebuilt, or serviced.