I think that a D1 shaft has to be used with a D1 output flange. I would guess that maybe they put a complete D1 T-Case in at some point probably to add CDL shifting in the truck. Did someone already do the CDL shifter upgrade?

Screws for pinning liners? Could you please explain this to me more. I've never really heard of this process.

 

I see you got your wife to log on and give you a 5 star review.

Seriously though. You could have at least waited until the end of the project to call it the best of all time. Those are big words on this forum

 

Jared9220

https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...-sleeve-48770/.

some interesting u-tube before and after videos

 

Thanks for that link. My head still hurts from all that reading. It sounds....how do I put this... interesting?

All I keep thinking about is that big, bold, capitalized, paragraph in the beginning.

"THIS “REPAIR” COMES WITH A VERY HIGH RISK OF COMPLETE DESTRUCTION OF YOUR ENGINE AND OTHER RELATED COMPONENTS. THIS SHOULD ONLY BE CONSIDERED AS A LAST RESORT REPAIR. THERE ARE PROBABLY A THOUSAND DIFFERENT WAYS TO RUIN YOUR ENGINE WHILE DOING THIS.
DO NOT DO THIS REPAIR IF YOU NEED YOUR LAND ROVER AS A MAIN VEHICLE AS CATASTROPHIC FAILURE IS ALMOST GAURANTEED!!
I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR ABOUT HOW YOU WRECKED YOUR ENGINE."

 

are yeah, that is the paragraph i think everyone over looks.
but the before and after utube videos are impressive

 

"I also decided to do 10-32 screws for pinning my sleeves instead of 1/4-28. I wanted more threads to be engaged, and a 32 pitch does that. I have a smaller bearing cross-sectional area, though, so I went crazy and I'm doing two screws per cylinder. I already have all 16 holes drilled and I'm waiting for an extended reach tap wrench to be able to tap all of the holes."

So what did you end up going with? stainless? and what about screw type? cap screw or set screw with nut and locking nut?

Post pics of your pinned liners when you finish... if you have time.

 

I still need to add the threads on most of the holes and then cut the screws to length. So far in this experience, I've found:
-The hole angles are a pain to get at with a large steady drill.
-A variable speed drill works great, especially for starting slowly.
-Cutting fluid is a must.
-Use a punch to as a starting point, then center drill enough to give a valley for the drill to go in, then drill at a slow-medium speed being careful to watch for the black chips (sleeves) so you know when to reduce pressure.
-Use cutting fluid on the tap, too.
-A long tap wretch is needed to get a good angle on some of those holes.
-Working on the cylinder just next to the starter mount is a pain! Plan the location and angle of the hole(s) there carefully.

Stainless screws wouldn't have the same strength characteristics as the allow steel, which is more similar to the cast iron sleeves. I went with the more similar metal, the alloy steel. I drilled the heads using a mill at the school machine shop (BYU), and I did two holes each side. I like that idea, personally.

The only question I have left for this part is what thread-lock to use. The permanent red stuff, or maybe some jbweld, or quick-steel(recommended by my machinist). I don't know if the quick steel would actually get much on the threads because it is so thick. I'd be afraid of it all scraping off as the screw entered the hole. JB weld would get some in there, and it is sturdy stuff. And the red stuff would definitely coat the threads, but would it be as strong as JB weld or quick-steel?









Notice the black chips (Cast Iron):

 

Looking good! Thanks for the tips!

I guess if one is good then two is better? Redundancy + strength.

I would think the high strength permanent red loctite would be best. It's good to 550F and is really thin. They make an extra high strength red but all I've seen is for larger threads and since it is thicker it may come off as you are threading the small screw in.

Same with JB weld, all I've seen or used is pretty thick and may not stay on the threads. Some JB weld says good to 500F+ but I've used some on an aluminum motorcycle head once to help on a stripped thread in a tight and after it went through a few hot and cold cycles I could flake it off with a small screwdriver tip and I did let it cure for 24 hours before running the engine. So I'm not real crazy about JB weld on high heat with expansion and contraction but, could have been that mine may have passed it's shelf life?

Just my opinion on that and opinions are a dime a dozen. On something this important, do your research. You should be able to go to the loctite website and find the one that's the most suitable to your application. There are quite a few red loctites to choose from. Maybe one is best for high heat + small threads + dissimilar metals.

 

It looks like Loctite 263 is the way to go for the fasteners, or 272 for bigger bolts. I'm ordering some now. I'm also getting some blue for assembly of the other large fasteners of the engine and transmission.

To all who are considering pinning their sleeves while the engine is still in the truck:

The pressure and torque of drilling and tapping the holes may warp the cylinders. I haven't cleaned the holes up completely or had them honed, but they do look slightly off, as in a protrusion right around the drilled hole. I was gentle with my drilling, but still... We'll see when I drop off the block to be honed. I'll update once I finish the pinning. I tapped all the holes today and will cut the bolts to size tomorrow and de-burr the holes as well. The burrs could very well be confusing me, and it was a long day, so there could be nothing wrong and no manipulation, but I just wanted to throw the warning out there.

Tomorrow, finish pinning sleeves, switch out brake pads, rotors, brake lines, and maybe suspension. That's the goal. We'll see what happens!

 

Wow! I would have guessed that they may flake a little but had no idea it would take enough pressure on the sleeves while cutting to warp them...especially with new drill bits and cutting fluid. probably not ...or hopefully not.

Looks like your freeze plugs are about done, I guess your machinist will be putting in new ones. Wonder if he will be using brass replacements? ask him if he pulls those out to the outside or knocks them in and then bends them and gets them out. . I've read that it's easy to gouge the aluminum pulling the freeze plugs out to the outside and may cause a leak later. I've also read that you can pull them to the outside with a dent puller and no problems? I'm curious as to how a machine shop goes about doing that on an aluminum block.

I noticed your block looks clean in the pictures with the drilled holes. did you have it cleaned at a machine shop once already? I was also wondering if you got around to having it pressure tested?

A few more questions...what brand of lower end bearings and rings did you buy? curious if some are really better than others? like federal mogul or AE or Glyco main and rod bearings being better than some of the really cheap ones.
I know the genuine bearings are 3 times the price of federal mogul, AE, Glyco. There may be other brands that are most popular across the pond? wondering what your research has turned up on all of that and what you decided to go with?