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2000 Discovery II troubleshooting with codes

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Old 05-27-2014, 11:51 AM
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Default 2000 Discovery II troubleshooting with codes

Hello all and thank you for assisting me with this gremlin.

First I am going to list the error codes I pulled with the assistance of Autozone.

These codes are from a 2000 Discovery II with 130,000 miles (US Market, petrol fuel)

P0327 Knock Sensor #1 - Circuit Low Input (Single Sensor or Bank 1)
p0303 Misfire detected on #3 Cylinder
P0304 Misfire Detected in #4 Cylinder
P1300 (generic reader states it is fuel level too low)

These two were listed as PENDING by reader
p1175 (fuel trim adaptation additive bank 2 malfunction)
p1172

I see a trend with the codes, yet I know they can be misleading.

I bought the truck used, ran well. Replaced the air and oil filter with KNN types and has run well (about 700 miles on both).

The SE light illuminated and I noted hesitation in the engine on acceleration and rough idle with vibration. It SOUNDS like a cylinder is not firing to me.

The plug wires are new blue magnacore types .

My thoughts are:
If this were a vacuum issue, wouldn't it effect more than cyl 3 and 4?

How does the O2 sensor relate to the #3 and # 4 cyl missfire? Is it possible that the O2
sensor is reading the unburned fuel mixture from the #3 and #4 cyl?

I did not add any oil to the KNN as it came pre-oiled. I understand the theory about the excess oil gumming up the MAF however, none of the codes seem to relate to the MAF outright.

Fault code P0327 is a knock sensor (backgound noise fault Bank A) . is it possible it is responding to the issue inside the cyl?

What does a PENDING error code normally mean?

Is there a way to verify the status of coil packs and the main coil?

Any ideas would be great .

Thanks!
 

Last edited by Roving-panzer; 05-27-2014 at 01:37 PM. Reason: add informqtion
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:27 PM
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The v8 D2's all have an integrated fuel filter in the fuel pump. Replace the MAF and get rid of the K&N air filter and replace with a paper filter.


When you put the K&N air filter in there, the oils from it get sucked into the intake, it gums up the diode on the MAF sensor and it fails, it will cause bad fuel mixture, timing, and misfire issues. That's my guess though
 

Last edited by Dane!; 05-27-2014 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Grammar Nazi; I noticed mistakes.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:29 PM
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Thank you- My posting was in haste as I meant oil filter and not fuel.

I will add to my analysis shortly.
 
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:31 PM
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I knew whatcha meant
 
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:38 PM
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Like Dane said, K&N filters can be a problem with MAFs due to oil contamination. They also are very poor filters so you are increasing engine wear, long term.

K&N filters have a simple trade-off - a bit more power, because they don't filter very well.
 
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:00 PM
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My '00 D2 showed a 1300 code, random misfire, so I researched here and discovered that 1300 indicated improper air gap for the crank position sensor.

Further investigation discovered that a valiant stalwart had changed his crank position sensor, but only after discovering the bolts securing it were loose.

His codes were cleared with a new crank position sensor, and the engine ran remarkably better.

I simply tightened my loose crank position sensor bolts, and my code was cleared. I could have replaced it with a new one, or even another used one, but I'm going to wait until I discover my Discovery blinking lights and failing.

Then I bet a new crank postion sensor will cure its ills.

Maybe it's the crank position sensor.
 
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:20 PM
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I inspected the MAF today per the suggestion. It was completely dry, yet I cleaned it with MAF cleaner anyway. Air box and ducting are sealed tight, no apparent vacuum leaks. Faults remain.

I would like to be able to conduct some meaningful analysis before I shotgun the problems.

My questions for the group grow:

Is there a way to jumper the O2 sensors in order to determine if they are actually faulty?


Can coil packs be swapped around or plug wires to see if the fault changes to a different bank?


My thick head has a difficult time understanding the relationship to sensors, and error codes that seem isolated to cylinders 3 and 4 . My instincts suggest spark or fuel flow.

Thanks!
 

Last edited by Roving-panzer; 05-27-2014 at 04:24 PM. Reason: add
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:56 PM
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Default Replaced Water Pump after 10-15mins running, Discovery turns off

Replaced Water Pump and now after 10-15mins running, Discovery turns off..Does anyone know what could be the cause of it turning off. After letting the car cool down, it starts right back up with no problems..

The thermostat is not showing it is overheating. could it be the thermostat?

M and S green lights begin to blink off and on..Anyone can help?
 

Last edited by dpolmos; 06-03-2014 at 08:34 PM.
  #9  
Old 06-04-2014, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dpolmos
Replaced Water Pump and now after 10-15mins running, Discovery turns off..Does anyone know what could be the cause of it turning off. After letting the car cool down, it starts right back up with no problems..

The thermostat is not showing it is overheating. could it be the thermostat?

M and S green lights begin to blink off and on..Anyone can help?
It sounds like your crankshaft position sensor is failing. It is a cheap part (less than $100) but the connector can be a PITA to get to.
 
  #10  
Old 06-04-2014, 08:35 AM
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M and S green lights begin to blink off and on..Anyone can help? check you battery voltage
 
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